YocumRidge

I did not realize there is ice on Oregon coast. When was this pic taken Bill?

Are there any ways to descend off the Ptarmigan Ridge to the North Mowich glacier without making a detour via Carbon glacier? Currently both west and east sides of the ridge are snow-free and following the top of the ridge to drop down to the low notch at 10250' felt like a suicide. Someone even left a wooden cross right before the sketchy section.

Better yet, Doug, get your partner to carry your pack.

With no Toluene added, Graham?

Andrew - it was nice running into you guys on Adams two weeks. Baker c-to-c is a way to go. For the dog route (Easton) last year, it took me 15 hrs and my ass is probably the slowest on this forum. Also we had to be creative looping around the crevasses which should be much more straightforward this year and save you some time.

If weather holds, I'd like to check out NE face or NW couloir on Eldorado but I dont want to do it alone. I have all gear and a car. If interested, please PM or e-mail.

D&V: Badness! Looks more like the SS on Hood which was BTW a brittle dinnerplatiness in May, especially on a "hardman" variation by the middle rockband. No signs of my bailout gear on the ice cap?

Brand new with tags 2010 Arc'teryx R280 womens ultralight harness, size medium, color Blackbird http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?Womens/Climbing_Gear/R-280-W Retails for $135 Asking $85

Aztars are amazing tools for both steep WI and alpine stuff: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=930098 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=967614 I wish I had them but I dont so I am stuck with the two sets.

The best bag is the lack thereof. Get some shock cord with stoppers and strap them (and your partner's pair) anywhere on the outside of your pack.

Jon, There is no ice on Olympus but did you get permits anyway? Lets get on some nice alpine rock instead - I gave you some ideas. A

Dan, we saw your car leaving on FS23 around 10 am on Sunday and had a sneaking suspicion you must have been shredding the couloir but after seeing this, realized you moved on something else.

Thanks for the great TR! I wish my folks would climb with me like that.

As per current conditions, these would be your two best bets for the Adams glacier: If I were you, I would try the more interesting icefall variation on the left though. Nothing was coming down when we were there.

Oleg: the "purest form" should not involve tools and pons which are aid.

V: But the tools were sticking well into that compound

Trip: ADAMS - Stormy Monday Couloir - standard Date: 7/18/2010 Trip Report: After summitting Rainier via Kautz 6 days before this trip, I wanted to climb something mellow for a change, to recover. Phil (LowLife on here) was recovering too, from the Liberty Ridge, when we bumped into each other on the summit. The recovery took place on Adams. Mount Adams is known to be a major tourist attraction with the most outstanding dog routes in the Pacific Northwest. We choose a much less visited NW side of the mountain that is accessible via Killen Creek TH from Randle. Getting to the said TH for individuals like myself with the routefinding skills which leave much to be desired was challenging and obviously took longer than expected. After 6 mile approach through the beautiful Killen creek alpine meadows, we find a sweet camping spot at 8000’ on the lower Adams glacier: The upper Adams glacier looks like another dog route transplanted from the south side and is currently in great shape: But we are not dogs and so we pick up a different line - “Stormy Monday Couloir” - to the left of the Adams glacier HW. Books define it as one of the hardest routes on Adams with “rock/ice/steep snow to 60 deg” for 4000’. At this point we don’t see much water ice on it though. Stormy Monday Couloir: Next morning, after my usual struggle with getting my ass out of the tent early, we reach the base of the climb only at 5 a.m. The expected war zone is right there on the glacier but rockfall is not very distracting. Adams' Mordor and a war zone: At the base of the climb: After passing the shrund on the left, we head up straight to the notch and the rock band. Snow/ice are solid and we quickly simul solo the couloir. The rock band (at about 11000’) has a not very inviting rotten ice runnel that we go through next. The best thing was in order to get on the runnel, one needs to jump across the icy moat with the tools ready to hook on ice or volcanic rock and to be really hoping they will stick. It is when we got to explore a new fascinating sport of wet-tooling on verglassed rock without pro for 30’ or so. The CRUX - Running runnel in action which we soloed: The icy moat at base of the runnel: Phil topping out on the easy ground after the crux. Do you hear water running? [video:vimeo]13477433 The rest is two-tooling through the sustained 50-60 deg couloir all way to the crater rim and that goes well. Higher up in the couloir: 3000' exposure: Almost on the crater rim: We eat and take a casual walk along the summit ridge. The smell of sulfur on the west side is unbearable and we feel great. Phil notices a steep serac (on the opposite side of the dog route) and suggests we take a harder variation of reaching the summit. When we finally top out on the summit, everyone wonders where did we come from and take us for some weirdos with metal tubes (screws): On the summit with Rainier on the horizon: We take North ridge to descent back to the camp and those 4000’ took forever and turned out to be the worst sufferfest I ever had. North Ridge Bitch: Gear Notes: Screws, pickets, nuts - none used Approach Notes: Killen Creek TH

When is the Icefest this year John?

Great, thanks guys.

Nice Did you guys look at the Price glacier?

Very nice !

Thanks Bill! We have just "survived" a sketchier line on Adams - "Stormy Monday couloir" I'll post a TR shortly. A

Partner found, thanks guys.

Wow, what a magical shot/montage! Thanks for posting

Yeah, we have been considering carry-over, but seeing hundreds of parties heading up to Muir as opposed to just 5 parties on the Kautz called for the obvious choice. But it is so hard to say "no" to sleeping in