YocumRidge

So, what areas at the RB or elsewhere in PDX are designated for drytooling?

FYI: Mountain-forecast gives the data for the four different elevations (including the summit): 11241 ft, 8203 ft, 4922 ft and 1641 ft http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hood/forecasts/3426 http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hood/forecasts/2500 http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hood/forecasts/1500 http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hood/forecasts/500 Whereas there is no data for 7K, the predictions for 8203 ft and the current NWAC telemetry (temps and winds) at 7K look pretty consistent to me. But yeah, 5 days ahead is ways to go.

45 mph winds: http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hood/forecasts/3426

Yes, I have almost bought the Panasonic LX3 but changed my mind for exactly the same reason. I am going to wait until April when Sony releases its new 4-proof Cybershot TX5: http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921666122654 My Olympus Stylus 780 is officially pronounced dead after three years of use and abuse. BTW, whoever wants it for spare parts or accessories (2 extra Li-Ion batteries, card reader and a 2GB Olympus card) can have those for free before it all goes to the Salvation Army.

How much does it weigh?

For sale: gently used Kelty Haiku 3000 cu inch backpack, currently discontinued. $45 plus shipping or local pick up at PDX. Fabric: Spectra Hardline™ Ripstop, nylon microfiber Suspension: LightBeam frame, HDPE mid-back framesheet, load lifter straps Back Panel: Padded mesh Hydration Compatible: Yes Torso Adjustment: [Reg] 16-22” Access Type: Top Detachable Funny pack Gear Loops: Dual daisy chains, dual axe loops External Pockets: 2 side mesh pockets Extra straps Volume: 3000 cu in Weight: 3 lbs 8 oz Size: Regular (this is NOT a womens version) The back and shoulder strap padding is contoured and vented, and the waist belt/hip pads are comfy and snug without cutting into you like other packs. The torso length can be adjusted easily from 17 to 22 inches using a velcro panel.

Looking for partners interested in heading up the North Face of Hood this weekend. Bad weather: Ice cragging on the upper Eliot if avy conditions permit. If not - on the lower Eliot. Good weather: NF (PM me for more info) and descent via CS. Thanks.

WOW, you guys are so helpful! Thanks for taking your time to draw the map. The best thing was that we DID get to the top of the correct gully: but after noticing an overhanging snow cornice we bailed and went down the alternative gully which WAS steeper, 60 deg at places, with melting snow over rock - a kind of like "life is going to be all right after this".

For as long as it brings in some sweet ice that does not instantaneously melt - it is all good.

Thanks, Doug, it all makes perfect sense. The gully you are talking about is the one we took. It had a turn out to the tree rap. I guess my pic does not make that obvious.

It was actually an FFA (first follow-up arrival) - Oleg took some time to desperately fix my agonizing camera en route.

Congrats Wayne! Beautiful line!

Trip: Chair Peak - North Face Date: 3/6/2010 Trip Report: With the Chair becoming another BeaconRawk for at least this year, it was hard not to get on its North face. Thanks to Dane and others for the updates on the ice conditions - very much appreciated, guys. Oleg and I left PDX early a.m., rolled into the Alpental parking lot at 4.30 a.m. and started out on the trail at 5.00 a.m. Expecting a zoo of the desperate ones like us to climb the NF on a Saturday and on a nice day, I was obsessed with the idea to hurry up to get in line as fast as we could. A zillion of multiple trails on the approach was not helping though – we had a few failures with the routefinding and lost an extra hour doing just that. Once we had Chair in our view, we headed straight up. The sun was well out (8 a.m.) when we got to the base of the NF. Despite our routefinding problems and to my surprise, we were the first at the “checkout” line but then two other parties arrived followed by three more. Crossing the moat at the base of the NF was not trivial: either belly crawling over the thin bridge in the center or traversing all way to the right and back to the rock ridge. The former did not work well for heavy individuals like Oleg - he collapsed through the bridge to the rock bottom of the moat. The moat: I let the other party who intended to simul-climb start first while I was getting Oleg out of the moat. He was OK but did not feel happy and badly wanted beer and meat at this point. I switched back around the moat to the right and up and belayed him to the base of the NF. Wind was picking up with some spin drifts coming off the face so we agreed on simul-climbing instead of simul-soloing. Oleg being a real gentleman let me lead the whole line to the summit ridge as one pitch. The other party and us getting ready to simul-climb: Myself on the thin ice of the NF and caught in the spin drift: Higher up: I placed 3 screws (2 x 13 and 1 x 16) and slung two trees. Ice on the first 80 feet off the ground was a bit thin and brittle. At 10 a.m. we got to the summit ridge, enjoyed the views on the summit and started the epic “descent”. On the summit: We knew a few downclimbed via the standard southeast gully, so we were hoping to do the same thing. What we thought was the walk down gully that parallels the summit ridge to the second rap anchor sprouted an overhanging cornice and after falling into the moat, Oleg was not hugely impressed with this option. Rapping off the tree was looking better but then again we brought a single 40 meter rope and after tossing it we realized it was not long enough to get us to the notch. If that overhanging buttress with a very loose rock below the first anchor was what we were supposed to downclimb, then we were just not digging it or are getting too old for that sort of thing. I would like to hear how people get around this section if not on rap: We had eventually settled on downclimbing one of the south gullies for about 300 vertical feet, then traversing east on the mixed terrain and climbing up another gully to the notch: Finally we got to follow the standard descent route to the base. Gear Notes: Ice rack and 40 meter rope (used), two pickets (not used), Chalk (recommended), Anti-Anxiety candies Approach Notes: Source lake

Castle Crags west

A minor correction on the steepness though:

Does this look familiar?

So, what would you use in the the following scenario: Solid partner + good snow and shitty cascade ice + good experience + 60-70 deg for straight 3000' +/- wind gusts? That would be very illustrative to me because I do intend on using pickets.

I second the suggestion of others - do yourself a favor and take an AIARE Avy Level I course. If you are into downhill B/C skiing and ski mountaineering, follow up with the Level II as well. Level I is invaluable if you want to try out different types of beacons/rescue scenarios and see what works best for you plus get skills on safe routefinding in the avy-prone terrain and WHERE to dig snow pits so the accidents like that would not happen: http://www.dailyastorian.com/Main.asp?SectionID=2&ArticleID=59014 And "as a leader" make sure that members in your team dont just carry beacons but actually know how to use them both in receiving and transmitting modes. Checklist on p5 of the AIARE field book is good but I prefer Life-Link Avy Snow Pit/Rutschblock card and Life-Link Backcountry travel in Avy terrain card. Both are 5" x 3", laminated and stuffable in your pocket, user friendly cheat sheets. The snow pit card has everything you need to know how to dig and analyze pits for shear quality, compression test and shovel shear plus the rutschblock. It does not have ECT and lemons though which you might want to photocopy and add extra. "Staying Alive in Avalanche terrain" by Bruce Tremper, II edition is outstanding reading for Avy safety.

Depends on your comfort level, experience in your team and snow conditions. Yes, the route finding is very straightforward: see Ore High or take the left couloir down below the summit ridge. If you will be camping at the Tie-in rock, are you packing the tent up the Spur? In late May, the Cloud Cap road might be open, so you should be able to do it in one day unless you wanna take your time and enjoy the North side.

I just went through this, see: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/940126/Repair_shop_for_GORE_TEX_leath#Post940126 Shoe goo sucks like hell but Barge cement worked like a charm. Skip the manufacturer' directions to wait for 20 min before joining though, I would say - like a few hours or better yet O/N. Then coat with seam grip. The boots were used and abused on rock and snow for 3 days in a row and no probs so far. P.S. Ace hardware carry small tubes of Barge.

Jon, how come your nose was bleeding if it was frozen? Were you seeing things too while on the CS? I hope the beer in the car was real I need to get up the CS and check it out.

So, Oleg, seeing people down below, hypothermia and weird clouds that are trying to kill you are all part of the package in your "training" regimen?

Life is good indeed, Sasha and Oleg! I just got the Oleg's e-mail "the climb was awesome - we were almost blown off the mountain by the 45 mph wind gusts and had to descend via the dog route"

And so was the parking lot at the White River Canyon on 35. My first thought was they are searching for a sledneck with a broken neck.

Where did you dig the pit: by the I-rock or on Reid? Wise decision on the bailout though.