YocumRidge

I'll second that for belaying the follower using munter off the anchor. The ABC alignment would be still applicable to lead belaying (or top-rope belaying) off the harness. But after being yanked into the rock a few times, I would avoid the anchors all together (if it is safe) in the exchange for soft catches.

Nice, thanks geoff!

Thanks Geoff!

I did not have a fifi or ascenders so I could not get up the line with just a pair of etriers. The partner was not able to clean them either on the rapping down off the Monkeys mouth.

I was the second and no I could not get up the rope w/out fifi or ascenders. A pair of etriers was the only thing I had but I was not able to reclip them on my way up.

Deschutes referring to the brewery, right?

Thanks for the advice. I might as well do that. Yes, they were up there in July. Who knows about now.

Ivan, I do not know what is best though. My first aided attempt (but w/out Fifi) was a failure when I got on the bolted ladder on Monkey face and had to leave all my 17 quickdraws on it. BTW, I wonder if they are still up there and if someone some time in the future will be climbing the Pioneer route, please, please clean them up and return them to me. I will also post this to LOST and FOUND! I'd consider it a small price to pay to learn how to aid climb on your own. Many others pay with their lives. Much cheaper and easier to just get instruction. The "more experienced" partner I was with did not think it was necessary for this particular route.

Right! But we had to be creative with rapping down off the Monkey Face mouth to the Bond Street Ledge (trying to clean up the quickdraws on a way but no success though). Second double rope rap to the base of the route was straightforward.

I like the comment "solid rock"... This is what I was missing a lot this summer. Does it have more technical routes to the summit?

It was my first (and failed) aided attempt on the 6-7th June 2009 to climb Pioneer route on Monkey Face. It did not go as planned and we had to retreat and leave 17 assorted quickdraws behind on the bolted ladder above the Bond Street Ledge (Pioneer route/Monkey Face/Smith). I know a few people later mentioned that someone was so generous to pre-rig the entire pitch with the quickdraws. Well it had happened by accident. If somebody has already cleaned them or intend on climbing the Pioneer route in the future, please PM or e-mail at mitochondria100@gmail.com Thanks

Ivan, I do not know what is best though. My first aided attempt (but w/out Fifi) was a failure when I got on the bolted ladder on Monkey face and had to leave all my 17 quickdraws on it. BTW, I wonder if they are still up there and if someone some time in the future will be climbing the Pioneer route, please, please clean them up and return them to me. I will also post this to LOST and FOUND!

Looking good! I was always admiring your photos: what camera are you using?

Get a proper mountaineering training for steep snow (anchors, running belays and rope management) PLUS crevasse rescue and avalanche training/certification are a must! Camping reservation in advance might be a good thing to do if you are flying from Cali. Comparison: Avalanche Gulch is a hike compared to the easiest routes on Rainier.

Yes I hear you Nate: for as long as someone could lead that 5.12 or whatever and set up the top-rope. Otherwise, I am afraid I waste more time on lead falling and not on the actual climbing...

That's funny!

Not like it's real climbing...and shouldn't this be in the techniques and training and not the rockclimbing forum anyway? Are you referring to the CC's "Fitness forum" then since I am not able to locate The techniques and training. Move the thread if you are so compelled to.

Technique. The goal is to get your hips up against the wall and keep as much weight on your feet as possible. If you haven't yet, consider taking a personal lesson or two so that someone can critique your technique and give you a few pointers and drills to improve your skills. Also realize that a woman shaped like a woman (or a guy inflating his spare tire) is going to have to have better technique and isn't going to progress as fast on overhanging terrain as a skinny teenager. Here's a link to Eric Horst's online training: http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm Thanks peoples for the great suggestions. I'll do my best to implement these. A

Already there. And what line is that? Do you mean the bouldering routes on the main overhang?

OK, thanks - Joseph! It is reassuring I am not alone then. Anastasia

Might be tricky but I will try. I think he is more interested in those 5.11 monstrously long traverses across the entire gym!

I bet the step aerobics would do just as well if not better. I did put it on hold and thence is the miserable outcome.

I understand the lead falls are safer on those and the liability issues involved for the gym owners etc but I am barely making them. Too pumpy and so frustrating! Almost all 5.10s at the PRG are overhanging. I need your input guys as to what kind of training would be best to overcome this: pull ups, push ups, any particular routines? Thanks

Yes, the bridge is not passable yet although we were tempted to. One would think that the feds could have done much better job fixing it given the outrageous entrance and campsite fees at the Staircase.