keenwesh

just going to offer some unsolicited beta here, Mummy 4 appears to be in right now, and this is what Palisade Falls looks like Ya'll keep enjoying life at sea level!

Layton, this should redline your stokage meter. [video:vimeo]110307929

Did you wear the overboots while skiing? The CCF footbed and overboot sole didn't mess with boot/binding fit? This, seems like you could make a dynafit setup work by cutting holes in the overboot, or the overboots would be made to accomodate the binding, but in every video I've seen the shredder is in AT boots without any overboot in sight. Like this guy: http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/281374-SKI-DENALI-Expedition-My-Experience-Climbing-Denali-and-Skiing-the-Messner

To be clear, I'm talking about people who ski from the summit, in order to do the Orient Express or Messner.

Been wondering this, every video I see of someone skiing denali they appear to be in TLT6s or a similar AT boot. There's no way that regular AT boots are warm enough for summit day. Are folks using overboots for the way up and just skiing fast enough that they descend before their feet freeze?

X all mtns have shit grips. If they had a little more substantial grip they'd climb steep ice better. If you're not a weeny like me though you'll have no trouble sending WI6 with them, I just like having the big nomic grip to hang off of. On a related note, the X dreams seem to climb really well and I know a lot of people really like them. I've only used them drytooling so I can't comment on their steep ice ability, but I will venture a guess that they kick ass.

my friend used his brand new tech machines a couple weeks back for the first time. Asked him what he thought after the first day and described them as like nomics but slightly different, so there's that. they're 55 g heavier per tool than the nomics. I really want to try the fuels. seem like they could be a better alpine tool option than the nomics if they can climb ice!

Worst nightmare for both him and his partner, dang. Heal up fast Josh!

I've blown 2 camhooks at index when the rock around the crack failed, so there's that. I really am not a fan of camhooks, the majority of aid falls I've taken have been when they popped. I've realized that I generally only use them on C1 and C2, where the terrain is easy enough that I'm going for speed and generally putting less effort into placements than I would on a A3+ pitch. With my weight (200 in my birthday suit, so more like 250 with a full el cap nailing rack) they're under a ton of tension, hearing a PING! as I suddenly accelerate downwards is pretty common. Only route that I've used them much is Zodiac, and that was just for the Nipple pitch. Air would be huge on that thing but clean. If you're a lightweight little guy like Mark Hugedong use them everywhere.

The MTice forum is so completely dead. Don't be surprised if you don't get any responses. Try the FB group "Southwest Montana Ice Conditions". That seems to be where beta and lost gear related stuff gets posted, probably would have a better shot of finding a partner.

If I was made of money I'd get a set of cobras with the coldthistle picks. Even with a pro code that setup would run over 500 bucks, and I'm not sure Dane is still making those picks (are you, Dane?). My thought with the foam is that it is really light, grip tape seems like a heavy option. After climbing for 2 years with the full shaft wrap, and everyone who borrowed my tools remarking on their considerable heft, I want to pair things down. I think it'll make steep ice easier as well.

aluminum shafts conduct heat so well, some form of insulation is needed. any kind of insulation on the palm would greatly inhibit dexterity. The answer to this really is to use a carbon fiber tool. Still, I think there's something better than scotch 2228. In my experience cork absorbs water and freezes into a slick noninsulator pretty quickly, haven't tried the synthetic stuff though. I'll go look for some thin closed cell foam and see if I can rig something up.

Recently I had to cut the grip tape I had applied to my nomics off (scotch 2228) as the amount added was tweaking the swing and I was tired of reapplying a strip to the upper handle every time I did any kind of high dagger hold, think climbing 50 degree neve slopes. My thought was a lightweight foam of some kind around the upper shaft that would insulate your hands and not moosh off after a day of use. Does such a thing exist? I could jerry rig something with cut foam and a epoxy glue, but that seems like a pain when it inevitably gets ripped up and needs replacement. anyone mess with this? Foam/glue used? durability? I want something better for AK next spring, as I need every possible advantage when motoring up those endless icefields. They're brutal enough as is without the screaming barfies...

until the 90's aid scene comes back and the memory of the 10 climbers brutal and senseless executions isn't quite as sharp I seriously doubt that there will be drone toting crowds in the Trango group. The application for scoping new route lines is very appealing. Forget a pair of binocs, just fly up there and take a look-see!

I was soloing around eldo this summer while a film crew flew a drone to film for a TV ad. It made noise and had lights, definitely noticed that it was around. Overall it was far less irritating and obnoxious than the plethora of folks screaming belay commands at the top of their lungs. Meh, it's a (relatively) cheap and easy way to get really high quality video. Look up the video of David Lama on Nameless Tower if you need an example.

Awesome work! Your summit shot looks splitter. That's gotta be one of the best views of the southern pickets, or maybe it's just the weather. Either way, sweet!

good luck finding a partner on here. If you can't, go soloing. The technique is a great way to get your system dialed, and when you eventually make it down to Yosemite it'll allow you to short fix your way to a much faster ascent, even climbing with a partner. Message me if you want links to pertinent articles or if you have any questions. Have fun out there!

There is no such thing as a waterproof glove. The only way to keep your hands warm is to carry several pairs and dry them out overnight in your sleeping bag for multi day trips.

I did it in 17.5 hours with two friends a year ago. I figure it's about 43 miles. We brought an ax apiece and running shoes. We also drove all the way back to Olympia once we reached the car. That was dumb. We also ran out of food for the final 10 mile stretch. Zombie march while bonking incredibly hard, don't do that. C2C is a way to do Olympus, but definitely not the way. The trail is pretty ho hum hiking through the trees until you hit glacier meadows, but it is so dang gorgeous once you crest the moraine and beyond. Doing it C2C is a really fun way to test your endurance and push yourself, but make sure you go in again with a more relaxed 3 or more day pace so you can enjoy spending time up there.

[video:youtube] just be glad that this idiot wasn't around. Sweet footage, I almost want one so I can scope routes with minimal effort!

I know this has been beaten to death, but I can't resist. Learn how to tie a clove and carry an extra locker. No PAS type device is worth carrying in any situation. For raps tie an overhand midway along a doublelength runner to put your device on, and clip into anchors with a locker on the free loop, takes 15 seconds to set up and you'll be carrying it anyway.

Check out the 30:30 GS (the GS model just adds some beefy fabric so it'll take longer to destroy). I use it alpine climbing here in MT and for winter routes in RMNP. I've found that for drytooling, as long as the pitch doesn't have any chimney sections, I can climb pretty close to my normal onsight limit. I haven't climbed much alpine rock with a large pack however. I feel like the best option for something like the gunsights is to hike in with a 45l pack and carry a light daypack like the REI Flash. Basically a stuff sack with shoulder straps, and has enough room for a couple shells and the days food. On route you bring that, leaving 90% of your shit in camp down below. For a pickets traverse, linking up the North Buttress of Fury and The Stoddard Buttress on Terror you have to carry everything with you. The hardest moves are 5.8, so climbing with a full pack isn't that big of a deal. Still, you most likely don't want a full 45L, as it'll allow you to bring too much shit. The 30:30 is perfect for that, as you can fit everything in it and put the rope under the lid. On route the pack compresses down and doesn't keep you from looking up, you'll still be able to lead 5.8. Between the two of you there's plenty of space for 2 bags, stove, dehydrated food, and a firstlight style tent. Full disclaimer, I haven't done either of those routes, but this is the route I'd take if I wanted a safety margin. I also might say fuckit and try and suffer through a massive couple days with barely any gear, but that strategy would involve a lot of soloing and fatigue, with an epic guaranteed if anything went south. the #1 thing with climbing in the alpine isn't your gear, it's your level of fitness. Before I went to AK last spring I climbed a ton with a pack carrying ~25 lbs. Experiment on yourself, figure out what works. Goodluck!

completely unrealated to this discussion, but the new speed record on the Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon is 26.33 Get after it!

Way to get after it, all that wallowing sounds epic! Chest deep snow trenching is brutal enough at 3000 meters, 6k sounds much worse! My buddy colin was part of the alpine mentors group. He was pretty bummed about the crappy june conditions, but that's what next year is for.

Yates makes a cable slung picket that works incredibly well. You can place it vertically (i.e. fast) but the cable slices through the snow and gives it deadman strength. I assume you could use regular pickets in this fashion but slings don't slice through the snow nearly as easily. For the amount of use that you'll get out of pickets in the lower 48 I wouldn't worry about it that much. Learn how to make a bollard if you have to rap over a schrund and become comfortable climbing steep firm snow, I've rarely/never encountered steep facets around here. http://yatesgear.com/climbing/ice/