keenwesh

Anyone know the current number of ascents this route has received? Less than 10? 5? Looks absolutely fantastic!

I'm probably in the market for a 4 season alpine tent. I've spent the last few years spooning in other peoples firstlights and Impotents. Being 6'6" it's a pretty tight squeeze and I'm curious about the eldorado. the 5 extra inches would be awesome, but with my size 14 feet I know I'd still be pushing out the ends. Does anyone have experience making your own tents? Prolight in town stocks everything that I could ever need, I'd talk to them, but they're more ultralight backpacking oriented...

if you climb every day for a month or two eventually you realize that you just will not fall on anything up to around 5.9 (at least that's what happens for me, others have a higher or lower threshold) At that point I usually solo up to that level, at a high volume, if I scare myself I dial it back a bit until I feel comfortable. The hard part is when you haven't been climbing every day for 2 months. It's easy to overestimate your ability, which can be dangerous.

Get nomics, if you're climbing in the dacks for any significant amount of time you'll have access to WI5's and mixed climbs which are much more fun with a more technical tool. I use my nomics in alpine terrain and have yet to wish for a set of quarks. I've found that the Dry picks double as a good spike (hold tool by handle, stick serrated top into the ice) when moving across/on/up glaciers

Ice screws get dull even if they're placed correctly, kinda doubt that would be a rental item. Might have better luck with the cams, but I doubt it. Usually the gear that is available for rent is more along the lines of boots, crampons, and ice tools. What's stopping you from packing it all? shouldn't be that much more on top of the rest of your alpine kit. Bring a backpack of softgear on the plane and wear your boots. Goodluck, cham is a kickass place. Don't miss taking a walk through the cemetery. Many greats have been laid to rest there.

That looks like an awesome romp! 3 pitches with a few short solo steps?

there isn't any glacial travel on the W ridge of stuart. The north ridge however has the whole deal, also the rock climbing is much better.

these bags are the bomb, and a great price. Looks pretty new, what did you haul it up?

Got them to work. Took a knife and cut about a cm off the plastic heel of the binding. su-weet!

I've got L bindings. I can't find specific stats between the 404's and 500's but I'd assume that they're the same adjustability range. I wear size 49s, mondopoint 31.5. Super fucking shitty. I'll keep fucking with it. How bad would it be to file down the plastic heel piece of the 404s? I just need 4 mm...

the 500's fit bigger boots?

yo, just posted these pictures on FB before realizing that no one will help me on there. I've got fucking massive feet. it sucks. I just got a pair of Baruntses and am fitting them to my approach skis. I can get them on, but they are so maxed out that the binding won't sit flush on the ski. Anyone have an idea to make them work? If I got a new toe bail that let the boots sit a few MM farther forward that would work. same thing with a slightly longer heel piece. I could just cut the wire thing off entirely, but would run into the same issue with the heel lifter for skinning up steep stuff. Foot binding? amputate a toe or 10?

the way I detailed lets both the leader and the follower actually do the pendulum, a plus for me. Penjis are super fun, running back and forth a long ways off the ground is one of the best things about climbing walls. I think ya'll are really overthinking this.

awareness climbs/expeditions/fundraisers are so idiotic. What does climbing everest have to do with children dying of cancer? If anyone wants to give me money I'm doing a trip to AK this May with 3 other dudes to raise awareness for rape prevention.

you could do a penji 100 feet below your lower out point with a 200 foot rope (however far horizontally that is). The leader climbs 100 feet, lowers back to the belay, cleaning gear, and swings. once to the other spot they put the follower on belay and the second follows the penji and unties. Pull the rope through and keep sendin'.

just go right now. there isn't any snow to speak of.

Hyalite.

There's good cell service in the Deer Creek Campground. (I have verizon, dunno about other providers). The coldfear site will load but you have to be patient. The South Fork is insane right now. Pretty much everything is super fat. The First two pitches of Joy After Pain are hooked out goodness. If it gets really cold you can rent a room at the Flying H Bunkhouse for $100 a night. Big kitchen and living room. Split it with 5 of your buddies and it's super cheap.

I used them to rig a 3:1 Z drag, boating application. haul the thing and reset the tiblock, same as you would for crevasse rescue. Shredded my rope every time I reset the thing and it was directly in line with pull and everything. Perhaps I'm just a dumbass, but tiblocks seem to get all their grip from the teeth, where other devices pinch the rope in a camming action. No shreddage.

tiblocks have shredded my ropes the few times I've used them (and stopped using them) If you're going to plan on doing any form of extended jugging petzl ascenders are the way to go. for a light crevasse rescue situation tiblocks work, but I'd shoulder the extra grams for a ropeman or croll if you're actually planning on using them. I've jugged a rope with prussiks, time consuming nightmare and there are much better tools available today compared to the 1950's.

I haven't given it much thought, but yeah, probably in that ballpark for time. The crux would be not fucking up the approach in the dark! We'll see if I end up in WA this summer (Plans now are for CA and CO) but it's on my radar. Long days where you cover a massive amount of ground are so much fun. Wanye, if you wanted to share some potential picket solo FA's I'm all ears.

Would the Stoddard buttress on Terror be a good solo? The length/effort to do that C2C in a day would be really awesome. Going over the otto-himmel col could be interesting without a rope... I've never climbed on that side of the fence, if the rock is solid I can't think of a better location.

Drop Mark Hudon a line. Every one of his TR's have at least one photo of a pinstack. He could climb walls even faster if he didn't take a picture of every goddamn placement

Throw snowshoes away. Get skis. Ski up mountain. Ski down mountain.

this is the ice climbing forum. I have found that the best way for me to keep my hands warm is quantity. Even in cold temps (below 0 degrees) I end up with perspiration. For a day of climbing I bring along a single pair of fleece liner gloves, for the ski in and out, and 2 or 3 pairs of Punisher type gloves. when they get wet I switch to the next pair. I'm assuming that you'll sweat in really warm mitts and they'll quickly become useless, at least in the temps you're likely to encounter in the lower 48.