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keenwesh

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Everything posted by keenwesh

  1. I fucking hate tweakers. Glad you enjoyed the route, it's one of the best.
  2. here are the larger versions of some of the shots for your viewing pleasure.
  3. ...aka X-treme comfort...
  4. I tried using a pair of those. after 20 minutes I had a terrible headache so I took them off. The belay chair is the best way to alleviate neck strain while belaying. Extra comfort if it's a reclining model.
  5. you're kidding, right? a joke? Haha, good one. What do you propose as an alternate? Seriously, who should foot the bill?
  6. I haven't had internet for awhile, so I haven't had the pleasure to follow CC spray. Regarding the fact that the producer pays for safety research on its own products. Who else is going to pay for it? You? me? The government? If the inventor didn't have to foot the bill for getting a GMO approved there'd be many more on the market. The approval process isn't cheap because they have to show the FDA that the products are safe before they can make a cent off of them. Monsanto sells roundup ready and Bt seed because they had the money to demonstrate their safety. Do your own independent analysis, you'll find the exact same thing.
  7. from the FDA website:
  8. is there any known compiler of Washington speed records? if there isn't we can go on bashing summitchaser, I just want to make sure there isn't a chance of a on topic thread before it gets moved to spray.
  9. A potential problem could arise if the gene (and promoter region, you need both) spliced themselves in the middle of another gene, either deactivating it or changing the gene into something harmful. Any harmful genes would show up during the genomic sequencing. Also, they feed this stuff in massive quantities to rats during the FDA approval process. If they caused cancer/autism/herpes we would know about it.
  10. Why the change in your opinion? Why do you now support "vigorous real-world testing" for GMOs, when earlier you said "an understanding of genetics" is all that is needed? You don't understand.
  11. I'm sorry, aren't you summitchaser CJB from the days of yore? I guess I'll just leave it at that... So records are as follows: Olympus C2C: 11:06 Backbone: 1:53, C2C time? N ridge Stuart: 5 hours C2C?
  12. perhaps spending so much time in yosemite is screwing with me, I read 53 minutes and didn't bat an eyelash... The speed record for Royal Arches is 57 minutes, and that's with the entire North Dome Gully descent. The actual 1500 feet of climbing takes around 15 minutes. Nutcracker has been done sub 5 minutes or something, again, that's like 500 feet of vertical. Hour for the RNWF of half dome... I've personally simul climbed the east buttress of middle cathedral in 2 hours, and we felt really slow the entire time.
  13. It's nuts how quick you can move without a rope! I heard that Croft's Stuart Traverse wasn't actually that great when it come to the climbing itself. Link ups are a better way to do huge days in the enchantments...
  14. North ridge of stuart could go waaayyyyy faster. I didn't run at all on the approach, and I maybe jogged the last mile and a half on the way out. I'm guessing a 5 hour time, while superhuman, is definitely possible. I onsighted it, Wayne gave me the beta that the gendarme crux was only a little bit harder than the crux on Serpentine, which I would agree with. The exposure and commitment level is much higher though. Still, that route is so incredibly fantastic. I'd like to go back to do the CNR (with a rope). I think I got lost as well after the gendarme. Some folks told me that there's a rap off the top, which I was going to have to avoid because I had no rope. I went right early, and climbed loose and lichen covered rock. I'm not sure if there's a well established rappel bypass though, so maybe I did go the right way. 11 hours C2C on Olympus is nuts! Again, much more feasible to put down a time like that if you can run. Does backbone involve similar routefinding/potential to end up in chossland as serpentine? I'm guessing I could drop my time an hour if I managed to stay on route the whole time...
  15. I guess I should post my times, although I want to emphasize I'm not trying to chest beat here, there are so many people out there that are way more rad. In order that I did them Serpentine: 7 hours C2C, I got lost on the ridge itself and spent a lot of time making sure I wasn't climbing into untraveled ground. Soloing in the Enchantments is a lot different than Royal Arches or Manure pile rambles. North ridge of Stuart: 11 hours C2C. I hiked in and out with some friendly folks though, so the approach and deproach were not very fast. I started from the notch and did the gendarme (not the complete north ridge, but whatever). From the notch to the summit took me in the vicinity of 1:10 though, so I was stoked with that. Mt. Olympus: I got some dumb buddies to go with me because it's largely nontechnical. 17:30 C2C. The last 10 miles sucked ass. This one I'm sure could be done in sub 10 hours, maybe even 7 or 8 hours if done by someone like Kilian Jornet.
  16. This last August I found myself in Washington without any reliable partners and ended up doing several car to car climbs by myself. I kept time, because it was fun to see my splits for sections of routes and also the total time it took me to cover all the ground. I'm sure my times were not even close to the records (I can't really run, something about being 6 foot 6 and having healthy knees) but I was wondering what the fastest times are. Here's the list that I'm specifically interested in, but if you've climbed something else pretty dang fast post up, cause there's a hell of a lot more routes out there than this (very) small handful. Serpentine arete on Dragontail Backbone Ridge on Dragontail (haven't done it yet, but it's on the short list) North Ridge of Mt. Stuart, from the Tenaway trailhead (or is it technically called something along the lines of Esmerelda peaks?) Mt. Olympus
  17. Ammon doesn't get stressed aid climbing... That's why he's so good.
  18. I don't use the back loop on my aspect, because it's a cragging/alpine harness for me, and I try to keep the amount of shit hanging off me in those situations to a minimum. For wall climbing I use a BD big gun, which also has the back loop. I hang a water bottle, my hero loops, long prussiks for holding the rope while soloing, and big cams that I don't want whacking me in the dick. I'd say it's nice to have, but at the same time I'm not going to consider it a necessary feature when I buy my next wall harness (probably a yates or misty mountain)
  19. it's been reattached, the el cap pirate won't have a peg leg, as long as there isn't any infection. If I ever cut my foot off I hope I can be that chill. The guy is tough.
  20. I climbed BB for the first time in august and thought the convenience bolts were great. It's a crag, deal with it.
  21. Shout out to Erik Sloan and Rodger Putnam, these two dudes are putting together a comprehensive yosemite big wall guidebook that should come out this winter in time for next spring's wall season. They're also putting up all the topos as PDF's on their website http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/ If you have any yosemite aspirations pick up the guidebook, it should be incredible judging by the amount of work they're putting into it. Also, shout out to Greg Barnes at the ASCA who sent me bolts and bits for updating the belays. Donate if you can and give him a shout if you're planning on going up a lesser traveled El Cap route. Mark Hudon lent me some tuning forks, it's terrifying how easy old quarter inchers come out!
  22. Trip: Yosemite - Sunkist Date: 9/18/2013 Trip Report: Just got back from a month in the ditch, managed to get up Sunkist while I was down there, along with several other climbs where I didn't bring my camera along. Here are some pics! The SK headwall is way up there Lambone on Mammoth Sunshade on Mammoth We replaced/added 7 belay bolts, pulling most of the old randomly placed crap. This is pitch 10, which before was one good bolt that I equalized with a offset and #3 pecker way off to the right. Now it's two bomber and logically placed 3/8's Midway through P12, beaking up a seam to a rivet ladder that deposits you at the base of the headwall. Not a bad place to wake up in! Lambone leading the first headwall pitch, mostly shitty rivets and some beaking Under the fly, trying to keep moral high. Mid-storm on the headwall It was nasty outside, Some guys on heart had a full on raging creek flowing about a foot away from their portaledge. They bailed the next day. Lambone cleaning the all time aid crack, P14. 165 feet of overhanging splitterness, 2500 feet off the deck Incredible place. Also, sorry dad, I borrowed your socks... Lambone on the crux, P15 On top of the A5 arch Cheesin' at the top of the A5 arch, our last bivi Day 7 and still fired up Sunset topout Gear Notes: http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/sunkist I told Erik what we used, so the gear list is up to date. As for big cams two new BD #5's and a single #6 were perfect for the chimney/OW pitch. No 8"-12" piece needed Approach Notes: Walk for 20 minutes, suffer for a day or two while hauling to Mammoth.
  23. Leave the weights. I find that they are basically worthless for climbing ice without them. There just isn't enough weight to get good sticks. However, I've taken my pick weights off when I'm fucking around in the bingo world cave.
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