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keenwesh

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Everything posted by keenwesh

  1. when it gets really cold I stick my hands down the front of my pants. Mitts are fer sissies. Any mitt is going to climb like shit, I'd go for warmth over dexterity, to a point. Size 'em big and wear fleece liners so you can pull them off and not get frost nip while putting on crampons or other dexterous tasks (like sticking your hands down the front of your pants).
  2. oh man, this is too good. Thanks for sharing. I did switch up the music though, springsteen gets the stoke higher!
  3. I labeled them all for your viewing pleasure. What did everyone else do this year?
  4. Incredible shots, I can't wait to get to AK and seeing more photos truly KEEPS THE STOKE ALIVE. Thanks! I spent 5 months on the road this year. Here is a small sampling. East Rosebud, MT Almost to the anchors on the first pitch of South Seas, it's steep! High on Sunkist, Tom Evans shot Rosy Crucifixion, Eldo South By Southwest, Lower Cathedral Spire. Clowning around midway through a Tuolumne linkup. Matthes Crest. Whoa, that's a lot! excuse me if I was over exuberant in my picture posting.
  5. a properly placed glue in of that type (with the legs twisted together and very well cleaned hole) should be good to 30kN. They're good enough for me.
  6. If I can run a mile in under 6 minutes will I be able to make it up the cassin?
  7. I've only pulled 1/4" split shanks, which come out in seconds with a tuning fork or two. How are you pulling those rusty 3/8"s? Unscrew it, whack it with the hammer to loosen it up and pull out the cone and sleeve, or are you just patching the holes and drilling new bolts?
  8. get out there and replace some bolts num1mc.
  9. BD aspect for everything short of big walls, unless you're rich. If you are I'd suggest getting something like the petzl hirundos for ice climbing and alpine. Avoid dead bird because of the price and they are just not all that durable. My aspect is pretty trashed after half a year, so my advice could also just be bullshit. Go buy a harness, chances are it'll work for you.
  10. nice mini epic, many others have preceded you and many more will follow. The first time I descended half dome my partner and I spent an hour or two scrambling around the 4th class slabs on the north side in between the NW face and sub dome. Idiots!
  11. bd punishers, get 'em from rei though, every pair that I've owned has had the insulation pack out after a month and a half.
  12. hey man, don't laugh. The Infinite Bliss speed record is serious shyt! I'm gonna guess an hour bottom to top, but I'm sure it could be done in a sub hour time.
  13. I'm thinking you should try both and use the setting that works for you the best.
  14. Yo mods, I'll fix the photos on this if you give me the ability to edit my post.
  15. I met a guy at the beginning of the shutdown who was about to wall out the royal arches. Plenty of people do that, but he was the first intentional case that I'd heard of.
  16. how do you plan things a year and a half out?
  17. as long as your kit includes a lot of stubbies!
  18. looks in, next time bring your kit.
  19. The Mistral was howling all weekend here in southern France. No climbing, the frenchies I've been getting out with don't like to climb when it's cold! A day at Index would be great!
  20. 2 micro traxes. I got them for big wall applications and later one realized that they're awesome for TR soloing. Sometimes I'll tie a catastrophe knot, usually in the winter when there's a possibility of ice getting on the cams. Just a figure 8 on a bight 20 feet or so off the deck.
  21. the longish reach right when leaving the first flake part on princely ambitions, before the mantle is top notch. The crux moves on terminal preppy are incredible, left foot on a minuscule sloping hold and a toss up whether or not I'm gonna come off. Still need to lead that one, gotta buy a new pair of TC pros first though...
  22. 18 min C2C or bottom to top? one is respectable, the other my grandmother could do THUMP THUMP THUMP
  23. if the naked edge can be done in 44 minutes bridge to bridge anything is possible.
  24. I know a couple guys who hold superhuman speed records, and they appear to be human (at least when I've been climbing with them, I do a double take when I read about the times they've put up though). There have to be some crazy times posted for the routes I've listed above. Post up. What's that record for liberty crack? W ridge prussik. Hell, midway on castle rock!
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