TMO

Uhhh... That would be one tough ski.

Amen... people do things differently. End of story. Look at the difference between european climbing styles and ours. An open mind might actually help us learn something we might not know otherwise. Let me butcher a "quote" by Jim Perrin; Once you think you know everything there is to know, you've stopped your ability to learn. A guide should certainly have confidence , but even so there is always SOMETHING to learn.

This picture was definately taken from the Nisqually Glacier.

Off topic, but the TWIN ice floss' (blue water) have been nothin' short of sweet for me.

I have been wondering the same thing. To my knowledge no one has climbed the Black Spider yet... sure is an obvious line, until you see it in person, then it's scary!

I've got some super light mammut pants that are probably the best I have used yet for summer... just checked their website and they don't make them anymore Eye balling the Champ though.

This sure makes me take a different look at the Nomics as an alpine tool!

Hit that approach via knapsack pass... The trail is a grind in comparison.

I call it a figure 9, but i'm sure it has a real name.

"It was amazing how easy life was once I ditched buddy" Brutal, but honest! Great read but an unfortunate injury! My bro. got a similar injury comming out from the Tooth years ago, scared the hell out of both of us. Gotta watch those sharp rocks!

Agreed. It does really depend on how long one is going to be at altitude that determines the approach to acclimatization. But back to Doug Scott... Iluka have you heard about the effects of "natural" AMS remedies? Seriously.... you are obviously very knowledgable on the subject and I thought you might know. Thanks, Troy

Well said Nate, I like your reasoning. It could take a week to climb Rainier or Whitney if one followed all the "rules" of acclimatization. I will reserve "climb high, sleep low" for Denali and K2. Disclaimer; the above statement is NOT advice for others, but based on my personal performance at altitude

Good question Manky. I have some approach shoes with the rand peeling... the cascadian couloir did a number on 'em. I've been thinking of shoe goo...................?

I have just started using the ATC guide. I'm not having too much trouble in the auto-lock mode, but a bit. It seems to get "sticky" at times... I too would like to hear how others use these, any tricks to 'em?

In my experience, a fast one day trip to altitude doesn't affect me nearly as bad as say camping at 10,000', then continuing up the next day. On Rainier I usually feel altitude symptoms around 12K, but on a one day climb of Rainier I felt like a million bucks....? Back in the '70's Doug Scott discovered the "antidote" to AMS. I will neither confirm nor deny the effectiveness of said antidote.

I believe what you suffer from is called "Cascadian Couloir Syndrome"! I just came down it yesterday and am developing the same symptoms as you. Good luck, heal fast.

Rodney Sofich, Even if you are Raindawg (for whicht thou art forgiven (only if that's you)) That is a STELLAR accomplishment! We all need partners like you when the shit hits the fan. WAY TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR PARTNER! Heal quickly Chad. Troy

Portlander? I thought y'all wuz called Portlocks! Just kidding, of course.

Sadly the Carbonado Saloon has closed their doors but there is always the ol' Pick and Shovel in Wilkeson. I did the scramble route recently, so I don't have much beta other than to STRONGLY suggesting the Knapsack Pass route for both the approach and descent.

Mark, THANK YOU for your hard work! Much appreciated. I hit Spire Rock at least once a week, a really enjoyable place to get a workout. TMO

You could always spend a day down low and hit the lower Nisqually Glacier... fun stuff.

I truely feel that driving a car is the riskiest thing we do. I started climbing after I already had children, so I have always tried to stack the odds in my favor; watching the weather, staying home if the avy hazard is high, and staying off routes with a high objective hazard (Willis Wall for example). Concequently I don't have a great climbing resume, just alot of fun!

Your one sick, twisted puppy! A 50/50 mix of bleach and water sprayed on 10 min. before a pressure washing would do wonders, but probably not very environmentally friendly. I have often thought that sand blasting would put a little grip back on the polished holds. Hey, why don't you hit Spire Rock in Spanaway when you are done with UW Rock!

Enough already! We've lost too many fine folks this season. My heart really goes out to his family.

I have never wore a helmet on MSH. While there is plenty of loose rock, it's not really steep enough for run aways.