TMO

I would recommend the Petzel Aztarex. Pairs up nicely with a mountaineering axe, is fairly light and most importantly has a removable pinky shelf so you can shaft plant it. I have a pair of them.... I haven't climbed a bunch of water ice with them yet, but so far they seem promising. Mostly I pair the hammer with my piolet in the moderate 'pine. $200 should bag you one.

Excellent read and a job well done!

Great topic. One that I have thought of often. I have always wanted a shoe that is somewhere between an approach shoe and a Kaukulator. High top for sure. I am fond of leather and laces (good song) but it would be interesting to try some things that Salomon has been doing with their running shoes; •Breathable mesh uppers •Gore-Tex seam-sealed inner booties •Kevlar Quickfit lacing system (to the toe of course); lace pocket hides lacing away for safety. Don't laugh too hard... but seriously, I have often thought that the ideal climbing shoe would mimic a goats hoof.... hard (not too hard) around the edge and a softer, slightly raised "pad" in the middle so it would both edge and smear well, maybe.... I would call them "Goat Shoes". Google it, it's pretty funny.

House to house times are where it's at.... combining climbing AND auto racing.

Beautiful! Thanks for the TR.

Just climbed The Zipper this morning.... the latest in the season I've ever done it. And, yes, sadly it is more bushwack and rock bands than snow now Still a fun outing regardless.

Excellent trip report! Thanks for all the beta and photos. Funny, I've never thought about bypassing the garbage chute at Camp Hazard even though it is the most unsavory part of the route. Great job!

I am very sorry to see this happen. I have some great memories with the fine folks that worked there.

I'm a big fan of the first light. There is definately a trade off for the weight but still a good little tent.

Excellent! Thanks for the update, I plan on heading up there soon.

Well duh. So four people for four days you would carry 16 canisters? "Typically" I am in a party of 2 for 2 days and have one 100gm canister left over incase I get stuck on the hill, smart ass

I typically take 1 canister per person per day and come back with extra.

Definately learn crevasse rescue! I think it is a good idea to work through the volcanoes by their standard routes, easiest to hardest. Everyone has their own opinion on this, but I would suggest; Hood, Adams, Baker then Rainier. Have fun!

I recieved my approval over the weekend. A week and a day turn around time, not too bad...

Now thats a trip report! Way to get after it!!!

Damn dangerous descent route. So many have run into trouble there. It could have happened to any of us.

I applied for a solo permit via email on Friday afternoon. No word as of yet...

I totally agree with the weight of the boot thang, but my ol' Scarpa Invernos just RULE! Comfy, warm, front point machines. I climbed Rainier once with my single leathers... they were warm enough but wore my ankles out.

That sounds very encouraging. Maybe I'll try submitting a request and see what happens.

Ricko, I think you hit on a good point. I live 45 min. from the park. I always wait for perfect conditions to give it a shot. It took me a couple of years to fiqure that out though! An old climbing partner used to live in the south and would come out once a year to climb Rainier. With his considerable time and money investment he had a "summit or plummet" attitude that I just don't have. That being said; I have been in an avalanche that I triggered(The Zipper on Lanes Peak). Youthful enthusiasm and inexperience were certainly factors. I have since learned to guage conditions and choose to avoid even moderate avalanche hazard. But it is a personal choice for each of us.

Thanks for your efforts on this topic Dane. I have applied once for a solo permit, about 6 or 7 years ago. It was actually approved in a timely fashion. Never did it though... I am considering a "fly under the radar" ascent this year. Government bureaucracy bothers me. Not exactly a solo but I always unrope when not on a glacier and not putting in pro. Liberty Ridge is a good example; rope for the carbon, Liberty Cap to the Summit and the descent.

Here is what I have been packing lately on Rainier. My strategy is to sleep during the heat of the day and when I wake up cold, it's time to go for the summit. Clothing: Head -balaclava -WHITE ball cap with a skirt on the back -Glacier Glasses -Helmet Upper Body -wicking shirt -WHITE button up dress shirt -wind shirt (dri-clime) -shell jacket (marmot pre-cip) -belay parka (wild things) Hands -Glove Liners -Fleece Gloves -Alpine Gloves Lower Body -wicking pants -light weight fleece pants -Light Colored thin Soft Shell Pants Feet -Gators -1x Sock Liners -1x Wool Socks -Double Plastic Boots Climbing Gear -Harness -Crampons -Ice Axe -1 Picket (per person) -2xPrusiks -Z pulley kit (biners, pulleys, runners) Misc. Personal Gear -Backpack (Wild Things Ice Sack) -35 degree Sleeping Bag -Sleeping Pad -Headlamp (petzel zipka) -Extra Batteries -Map and Compass -3 liter insulated water bladder -Toilet Paper -Sunscreen -Lip Balm -1 Treking Pole -Knife Food -6 to 12 Gu's -2 days worth of munchies (nuts, beef jerky, delicious halva) -1 freeze dried dinner (or 2 cup-o-noodles) -1 freeze dried granola (or instant oatmeal) -COFFEE! Group Gear -Tent (maybe) -Rope (30 meter ice floss for 2 guys) -Stove/pot (jetboil) -1 Spork -Fuel (1 canister per person per day) -Lighter -Blister/First Aid stuff -Watch with alarm clock

I would recommend waiting for better conditions. Conditions are everything; post holing vs. cramponing, fun vs. scared, etc. I have attempted Rainier too many times in scetchy conditions and had to bail. My preferred method is to wait until all conditions are as perfect as possible, then go for it, ignoring dates and schedules.

I heard that they wandered off the Muir snowfield and onto the Cowlitz Glacier somewhere around Anvil Rock. Lots-a big daddys over there!

Dane, I agonize over every gear purchase... so thank you for sharing all your hard work with us. Much appreciated! Troy