TMO

My and my brother did the Tooth 3 weeks ago... we left the parking lot at 5 am to try to beat the mounties to the route. It worked like a charm except we had to rappel right through the middle of the cluster fuck (I counted 5 people including myself at the second belay/rap). Need to learn that north side descent route! I was crackin' up at my bro doing that 3rd snow pitch in rock shoes. Do an alpine start, bring boots, and ski out!!

I always figure that gear will be stuck or dropped from time to time, one of the prices of climbing. I've never even worried about it being a "owing" situation, but then again I've not lost enough gear to worry about it.

DanO, Your choice is a good one. I have one just like it but all white... keeps me very cool on those sunny days on glaciers.

Oh boy... not this discussion again! Folks get all fired up on both sides of the snow cat debate, mostly against it,

Ahhh... Boot quiver... Imelda has nothing on this boy. So many boots, so little time. I'll list my currently used quiver. Hiking/Approach Shoes; LaSportiva Exum Ridge, Nike Exum? (great shoe), Salomon XA Pro 3D Ultra GTX Rock Shoes; Scarpa ??? (early 90's model that I love), 5.10 Gambit (not so sure yet) Summer Mountain Boots; LaSportiva Trango Plus (Dave Page just resoled and put the coon tune on these bad boys, damn near climbs as good as a rock shoe), LaSportiva K2's. Single leather bliss, front point machines! Winter/Volcano Boots; none other than the ol' purple Scarpa Invernos... warm and cozy, fit like a glove.

You should do that even in good conditions!

Threxx, My personal "test" to see if I am ready for Rainier is to see if I can run 10 miles with lots of hills and feel like could do more. That being said, even a marathon is no training for Rainier... too short. You will be out for 6,8+ hours the day after slogging up to Muir, get's deep into the mental stamina aspect of our sport. Sounds like your workin' it like a job though... I hope the weather gods bless your journey with cold, clear skies. Good Luck!

He who runs away lives to fight another day... words to live by! You don't get as much climbing done though! I think you made a good call, but it's hard to say what the wind has done with the new snow unless you go up and check it out. I have found it best for me to wait until the conditions are perfect, then blast it, almost guarantees success. I have been turned around too many times in the past to do it any differently.

I'm a total gumby skier but regularly ski down from Muir with plastic mountaineering boots.... it's not pretty, or very safe, but is a hell of a lot better than slogging down! You should give it a shot.

Nice to see John is still getting after it!

I have only had a tent (loaded with gear) stolen at camp muir... by the wind.

Gene, I used a kids backpack/carrier for my children until they weighed about 40 lbs and were about 3+ years old. That exceeds the listed rating on most carriers, but I never had a problem. Around 3, my girls wanted to do SOME hiking, but hitch a ride from time to time. It's nice to have a comfortable pack when they start getting heavier! I personally would recommend that you spring for a nice one to use this summer or longer, then craigs list it.

Liberty Ridge- Mt. Rainier North Ridge- Mt. Baker Reid Headwall- Mt. Hood North Ridge- Mt. Stuart North Face- Chair peak

Thanks for the update!!

I just picked up (pun intended) a wood shafted Stubai yesterday- I was very much inspired by this thread- it is probably from the '50's. It came from an estate sale in Enumclaw so I like to think it has seen some action on Rainier. It's not nearly as cool as the Chouinard/Frost's or the Simond in some of y'alls collections, but I only paid $ 35.00 for it. I'll get a pic up as soon as I can.

Off White, you conducted yourself like a true gentleman on the hiking site. Well done! .... Wait a minute... This post is in Spray, what I ment to say is; Off White really handled himself like a master(de)bater on the Hiking site.

Crevasses are not a problem on the Casaval Ridge. Looks a little trickey getting on the ridge from the lake... but probably doable. I have been on the ridge twice now and have not used ropes- we also used a walking axe in conjunction with a tool. I believe Sargents Ridge is to the right of AG??

Looks like the snow was fabulous up high!! I can almost hear the styrofoam screech from here. Nicely done!

Keep 'em commin' Dane!!! I'm tired of re-reading my library of climbing books and mags and need new material. Great stuff!!

I am always suprised by how many people I meet from Texas that travell abroad to scratch their climbing itch... Why not Looziana?? You will love it there I'm sure, but have to go elsewhere for climbing fo sho.

"Didn't Lionel Terray die in a climbing accident?" Shhh... OK, Fred Beckey would be a much better example.

Midway at Castle Rock!

I'm no detective but it looks like CBS went climbing with Toast.

Tyler, A decent way to learn to climb is to just start off easy... join a climbing gym and learn some technique, climb St. Helens, Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, etc... and read, instructional stuff like "Freedom of the Hills" and "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" as well as books like "Seven Summits" or "The White Spider". We can learn an awful lot from others misfortune. The Tatoosh range in Mt. Rainier National Park also holds lots of opportunity to get steep without being totally committed. I think it was the great Lionel Terray that said "If you survive your first 4 years of climbing you will probably live a long life" (or something to that effect). Bottom line... Learn about placing protection, belaying, and good judgement BEFORE jumping in over your head! This sport has inherent risk so it's a matter of managing the risk... Here are some things I learned the hard way; -Get an early (alpine) start so your off the glacier before the snow bridges and cornices weaken from the sun/heat. -Learn about avalanche/snow assessment. If the avalanche hazard is high GO HOME. -Always, repeat ALWAYS carry a headlamp with you! It helps to avoid epics. -Conditions are everything! Is the snow hard for easy cramponing or are you sinking to your knee every 3rd step? Just read the recent reports about ice climbing when it is too warm out. I actually kissed the ground after rapping off a frozen waterfall that turned to running water 3 pitches up... Scary! Most importantly have fun!

Thanks guys, i appreciate all the feedback! With your input I have come to the following conclusions; 1- I WILL epic, so I need to bring a lightweight sleeping bag, pocket rocket and a billy pot. 2- I will wear light weight boots on the approach and bring rock shoes for the rock climbing. 3- I'll bring an ice axe and aluminum crampons. 4- I will aid the gendarme 5- I think I will buy a light weight 60 M single rope (mammut serenity?) double it and simul-climb if possible or just pitch it out if necissary. Thanks again!