LostCamKenny

i know this is a month late but i have to add my $0.02. it seems that those who solo a lot are quick to condemn their partners when they do rope up with someone for a climb that ends up turning into an epic. mito and i went up to shuksan a week ago to have a go at the NW couloir, but we f-ed up the approach by crossing a creek too early and getting into thicker bushwacking than we probably would have encountered had we not crossed the creek. we turned around too, but neither of us was blaming the other for the mistake... and neither of us misrepresented our experience to each other - we are both fully capable of doing what it is that we set out to do. furthermore, mito is a climber with integrity and in my experience with her she has never misrepresented her ability. at beacon while doing some routes she told me what she was able to do and from there i gave her suggestions of what we should try. she handled herself very well - especially for someone who is very modest on their rock skills.

crist, that sounds like something that i'd have to put my beer down for... we dry tooled at rocky butte the past two days - it was gnarly!

local ethic, dood, local ethic... the only bolts that have been power drilled out there are yours. man up and do it in a way that will make you look like a badass instead of a limp-wristed pussy with a lil dawg(sorry bill, no offense ) i don't have a problem with them being replaced if they are done in the original style... the power drill is NOT original style! leave that for ozone or farside or something where toproping is more common - leave it alone until someone actually climbs the thing to an anchor and has some real feel about how it goes with the bolts that are there. if the one who does it is a solid .12 climber then they aren't going to fall anyway to test the bolts you think need replacing. you are not the bolt authority out there, nor are you the only one who can (and is authorized to) place a bolt. and why do you think that Nate^2 (that's eldiente and Farrgo) will even be on it? did they say they would climb it? and if they do, what makes you think that someone who solos blownout doesn't have the head to climb past a rusty bolt and not fall? these guys are mountaineers, strong mountaineers, not crag rats that will cower away at the thought of a bolt that might be bad. leave it alone, joe, until someone else can go look at it... just because they can be replaced your way doesn't mean they should be replaced your way. just lay off, dood!

local ethic, dood, local ethic... the only bolts that have been power drilled out there are yours. man up and do it in a way that will make you look like a badass instead of a limp-wristed pussy with a lil dawg(sorry bill, no offense ) i don't have a problem with them being replaced if they are done in the original style... the power drill is NOT original style! leave that for ozone or farside or something where toproping is more common - leave it alone until someone actually climbs the thing to an anchor and has some real feel about how it goes with the bolts that are there. if the one who does it is a solid .12 climber then they aren't going to fall anyway to test the bolts you think need replacing. you are not the bolt authority out there, nor are you the only one who can (and is authorized to) place a bolt. and why do you think that Nate^2 (that's eldiente and Farrgo) will even be on it? did they say they would climb it? and if they do, what makes you think that someone who solos blownout doesn't have the head to climb past a rusty bolt and not fall? leave it alone, joe, until someone else can go look at it... just because they can be replaced your way doesn't mean they should be replaced your way. just lay off, dood!

in fact, joe, here's a novel idea for you... why don't you have as much balls as they did and go aid the route from the ground, replacing the bad bolts as you climb by using a hammer and a hand drill. i would consider that acceptable - even if it was you replacing the bolts!

Wayne, did you or Bob do the retrobolts, or know who did? does it really matter, dood? you're gonna do the next retrobolting whether they are ok with it or not...

the trick with the YW puddle is to have a few rocks sitting there so that the rope won't sit directly in the f-ing swimming pool. a careful climber won't knock them off and then it doesn't matter if there is water there. but someone always throws those rocks out of there - hmmmmm, who could that possibly be?

michael moore is great at telling it like it is even if he doesn't offer solutions... he'd fit in great in spray!

jeeez, sobo... is it that time already?

if what you are looking for is a ticket to wilderness adventure then don't spend too long in the climbing gyms - they'll ruin yer sense of wilderness adventure and tune you in solely to face climbing and clipping bolts. they are a good place to start, just don't get too comfortable in them or you won't know what to do once you get outside and start seeing cracks. and yes, i know that some gyms have cracks built into their walls and that is great (the mazama walls have several and they feel really cool) but the bottom line is get outside as soon as, and as much as, you can! bon chance!

fer crissake, dude... you ever gonna come back down here? give me a call one of these days or i may start pranking you... now that i think of it i may prank you anyway wait a minute - you'd know it was me ok, nevermind.

the place is called mountain soles and it is just a block or two south of hawthorne on 12th in se pdx... they do good work on packs and i would imagine that they could do something similar on a tent - except the put tent... they burn those to power the shop!

one more?!?

we'll see... i'm hopeful for a naitive american summer - feels like we just got started in the gorge! but i wouldn't mind if i got to use the tools early this year, either

:lmao: :lmao: outstanding tr rob, the only thing it was missing was plaid's faceshot, iphone, on-route video explaining how miserable it was

kev are you gonna be out on the evening of the 24th? i think dd and i are gonna climb up with our gear - though he might see this and think it is the first time he is hearing such a plan

... especially when they are nailed in vertically oriented cracks.

going right and up to the pin and the bolt are 5.7 moves at their hardest. it may only be about 35 - 50 feet of climbing that is different than doing the last pitch of the corner, but if you do it all in on long pitch then it adds a different feel to the pitch - totally different feel than when doing it as the se corner... imo good to see you out steve! we were gonna follow you guys up the rest of the route but figured that the route is comfortable for three to climb as a team, but if we caught you guys up it might have gotten cramped. did you lead any of the route or did kendall take the sharp end?

thanks for all the time, work, and money you put into the place, bill!

couldn't you have suggested someplace further away?

nothing to add except that if you do want to get into the cold stuff that it probably doesn't matter which side of the mountains you live on.

Hey Sobo, what time is it?

nothing important, anyway.

oh, i got it now... if it isn't in line with yer fucked up thinking then it is nonsense. glad we cleared that up