LostCamKenny

This seems like a pretty powerful index of reasons not to use one, especially when a guide or a reverso can handle the job(s)!

Awww, c'mon is it that bitter between you two?

Those are some excellent nature and wildlife shots - there are college textbook writers that would pay $$$ (read: not much) for them - the wildlife shots, at least. But, still, I enjoyed looking at them! It's a great change from ass shots, tarps laid out and strewn with gear, and countless pics of routes that others have done and reported on hundreds of times! Thanks!!!

Rudy, you're 703 days late commenting on this thread (perhaps I am too). Isn't it possible that kevbone has changed?

The only thing, here, is that you lose the autoblocking ability of the device by belaying off your harness... but certain situations require very different techniques.

I guess I don't pay attention enuf, but the only "pink point" I'm aware of is the one on a female climber (or any other woman, for that matter). What the fuck does it mean here?

and like them, best done drunk ...and stoned!

That looks exciting... wow! How was it in winter during the whiteout - besides white?

Whatever... that's a dream come true for me! ...

Hmmmm... this sounds familiar - a lot like something I did just a few days ago, except time kept us from the summit. Nice pics and TR! Alpine bushwacking... ain't it fun?

Well done - 50% chance? Aren't you glad you went - in spite of the hike out in the dark?

Beacon at night just isn't the same as it is during the day. I thought it would be really super exciting, but it was kinda mellow. During the daylight you can see your exposure and position, making for some exciting moves (if you haven't done the route over and over again). I thought that climbing under a shroud of darkness would add an extra element of excitement, but it didn't. In fact, since I couldn't see straight down the SE face when I came off the slab the move was much less satisfying. I'm sure that YW would yield a similar experience under these conditions - of course I have no intention of climbing again until friday afternoon so I don't even know why I'm posting on this thread, except that it said "beacon." But don't let me be a downer - its still really fun! Someone should go with him - of course Joe will do it even if no one else goes...

but if a team is going to simul-climb they must decide on that before AA starts climbing. It is worth mentioning that the belay during simul-climbing is a dynamic(running)belay, meaning that if either climber falls then the other climber becomes the belay - actually more of a counterweight.

I'm in complete agreement with cbs... as the angle of the climb decreases so does the comfort of the stance required to belay in that way. On a slab with the guide I belay off my harness with the rope running through a directional piece so the weight doesn't come directly on me.

It hurt to wear the one I had on

no but we were nursing hangovers sunday morning after a parking-lot pow-wow saturday night...

Goin up Young Warriors, Beacon Start of the crux pitch of the SE Corner, Beacon

wow, she's f*%ked up!

sure it is, bill, it plastic climbing... its the red-headed stepchild of rock, ice, alpine or aid climbing!

How is Kim's belay?

It makes me itch just looking at the picture

Better yet, lets bolt everything from Bluebird on over to Dod's and call the place a gym!

I like ivans idea... thats the perfect rack!

Natural anchors always give me a warm fuzzy when i see them. if they're solid, just sling the damn thing and bring up your second.

Interesting - how studious of you!