stevetimetravlr

rumr, I don't think thats exactly true....

As i was coming down the trail last night, there was a guy headed up the trail with a rope and not much else? Was he a "rapper"? Pitch 3 seemed like it could use a good brushing. The belay ledges at the base of pitches 2 and 3 are filthy, and also have a number of rocks that need to be chucked. Pitch 2 was clean, but pitch 1 needed cleaning. Pitch 3 why could you not rap to the pins, and then rap again down from them? Need to leave a sling is all... also to get to the top of 3, seems like from the base of the SE corner upper ramp pitch it is a easy scurry over to the anchors I asked about earlier near the top of YW pitch 4 on the left,you could scramble to them and rap down from there to the top of 3, I don't know why not?

and maybe some jamming skills....

Now thats a climb! Nice job you guys!

Well, not to stand up for Joseph, but it is a little unnerving in that area up there. If they put the anchors in the fresh rock scar it does make sense, as if you place gear right in that stuff, who is to say its not going to leverage those boulders right above you as they are all just hanging there now, held up by not much. I did not notice any anchors there when i cruised by but didn't really look for them I am curious though about a set of bolt anchors on the 4th pitch of Young Warriors that is off to the left somewhat near the top of the pitch. They have beefy homemade hangers on them, what route are they for? Also, probably been asked before but that 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch of YW, has it ever been considered to relocate it up a little up and right so that the rope runs a little better. If you don't sling that bolt it makes the rope do a 90 degree corner, so i always sling it but just thinking out loud....

Wow, I would not be surprised if the top part of the final pitch of Young Warriors falls off someday as the rockfall originated right below it and there is a healthy scar there now of some size. Makes you think climbing up thru those rocks right above it what is keeping them in place now.

Roger thajt.

Ivan, will be at Beacon tomorrow, afternoon thru eve. I'll keep a eye out for you, or will swing by Tree Ledge on our second circuit and see if you are there and take a run on Riverside.

Riverside sounds like a cool climb, I'd do it. So none of the bolts or fixed gear on YW got the chop from the rock fall? Seems like it had to have taken something out with all that stuff coming down...

Bolt Love. How about someone replacing the 2 old bolts on Second Wind so it can be climbed again..

Plaidman has gotten faster lately. the guy was firing up some 5.10s at Klinger in short order a few weeks back.

I'll bitch about the blackberry bush on Cruising. On the final part up above it snagged me as I was passing by and wouldn't let go. Only one blackberry bush but it was tenacious, tried to knock me off as I was wrestling with it.

Joseph, you come off as one of the most "victimal" people I know.

actually Ogden is the new sports center of Utah Bill. With the completely rebuilt awesome resort from the Olympics of Snow Basin nearby, and the downtown center that showcases a climbing gym as the entrance to the mall, along with a Flowrider Surf Park and a outdoors ice climbing venue, the place is amazing and totally up and coming. A number of big sports companies have already relocated there. The area also hosts a extensive via ferratta area for non technical climbers, and there is a guidebook to the surrounding rock climbing areas. Move to Ogden, not to Salt Lake.

Road from Randle sucks. Better and faster to come in via I-84 or Hwy 14 on the Washington side and go up 141 to Trout Lake.

Anyone remember the old Honeymoon Silver Mine that was at the Lake Serene trailhead hidden back behind some trees? It was the coolest old mine to explore, something right out of the Hobbit, with deep shafts covered with boards with a hudred feet down, caved in spots from the ceilings, air shafts with ropes hanging from logs, many passage ways, just an amazing old mine. Quite dangerous. Does anyone know did they fill it in or cover the entrance as i could not find it when I was up there last year?

Holy snikes, thats rad.

You are damn right when I say that the complete closure as it now stands at Beacon, relegating the climbers to this very dangerous mossy chossy wet scary area and yet completely closing the traditional climbing crag in its entirety, two seperate faces, even that area past the SE corner that is nowhere near the nest, is not right and has increased the danger factor for the local climbers exponentially. Anyone wanting to practice trad climbing or multipitch or wall training, there are no safe routes available. and you Joseph advocate that discussion of this issue should not be addressed with the Park Service, and that any accidents that happen are just luck of the draw. The climbers deserve better.

Free for All must be a real anti-tedious super monkey kind of crack for you Joseph because just about everytime in the past 5+ years I have taken a newbie up it, you show up and climb right up their ass, even if there is no one else at Beacon and tons of routes abound. Oh wait, its 5.8 and its a crack, so it can't be any of those definitions you laid out, what is it then.....just plain bad manners and the inability to climb anything harder? I also noticed earlier in the thread you stated that I seem like a victimal play it safe kind of putz. You don't even know me, I find it fascinating how you would draw your conclusions. Wierd, kind of the same way you denigrate Yosemite but don't climb there.

Thats gonna leave a mark! Great video!

It doesn't miss the point. Multipitch climb all day, and then sport climb or boulder in the evening to wind down. Many of the older bolted climbs in the Valley can be pretty scary, and most of the newer ones are in obscure places like Schultz's Ridge base, etc. that were rarely visited before and the routes not do-able with traditional gear. The Valley is cutting edge and has a strong contingent that keeps it honest, finger on the pulse. A couple guys from Washington that don't climb there taking potshots and making snide comments, well its frankly embarrassing.

Perfecto.

Raindawg,have you EVER done Cookie Monster? Now or before or anytime? Or do you just like to jack off your mouth on the internet like Joseph instead of actually climbing?

Dawg, you are talking to THE MAN. Chris Mac has done more climbing and big walls then you have even thought about. If anybody can publish a book like this, its him. Yosemite is for everybody. Keep your negative attitude and BS to yourself. Chris Mac might be to nice a guy to kick your ass, but I can't vouch for everyone else.

Got to say, Paul does it right and nary a complaint except for those scary shunts at the top of "da Eagle and da Crow" in the chossy overhang. Scares me everytime I clip em but sure makes for a smooth ride back down in a rough world. Most of the stuff he puts up is to hard for me to climb anyway.