akhalteke

Uh... yeah.... whuttuvitt.

That's fairly overstated and I think you know it.

Most in the know don't think this is possible anyhow so unless they are anticipating another holocaust, they probably shouldn't encourage them...

also, the chance of the rope being cut (I feel) is less probable than the rope getting stuck and causing a major epic with exposure/injury. I would just make sure I had a sheath that I trusted on the 6mm.

Mike, when we did our SOP's, we found out that the EDK can only flip 2 times under the worst case scenario. We incorporated 18" tails for the EDK and have had a reduction in caught ropes with no failure. Only once (that we know of) did the rope flip at all (in a few thousand rappels we have overseen) and this was done by me on purpose to try and create a failure with a sloppy knot and a factor 1 fall force applied. Despite this testing scenario, the set-up did not fail. Read though, that I only did this once and it wasn't really scientific...

BEST....PORNO....EVA! Brings all new meaning the DP...

Care to make this a threesome?

Awesome, thanks guys. I was just throwing a bunch of holds up where they made sense and getting after it. Now, I am more starting a route and adding to get the "desired effect," I might have to try that idea of mapping out routes. There are some great setters in the Colorado Springs area and I could probably 'borrow' some inspiration from them.

Its too early out!

Heard that oh so familiar rattle of the diamond back rattler on snow creek wall as I reached up for a ledge. As I latched onto the ample hold, I felt something 'snap' at my hand. I let go and fell 25 feet onto a #2 camalot with a... grasshopper stuck between my fingers. Bastard! Scared the shit out of me!

...and poo dust.

You do realize, that if anarchy is your goal, myself and people like me would run the globe right? I assume you are an anarchist because (unless you are a complete moron) you must know that without taxes, there are no cops, no military. This would mean that he who has the most guns and uses them the best wins. That is me. So by all means slomo, wage your war against taxes and the status quo and indirectly elect me, your enthusiastic dictator at large.

I hear you. I was only correcting another persons post to accurately reflect our current situation. To me that is a very important piece of the puzzle. To call it war is to continue the brainwashing. IMO. And to say that AK has more perspective is wrong. He has a different perspective. One that I respect but very different. Uhm Kev, I have been shot twice (different times) and I will just go out on a limb and assume that I have much more education than you (formal and otherwise) in matters pertaining to war. When two organized opponents are waging armed "conflict," with the destruction of the enemy the goal, you have a war. Now tell me shithead, without all your wacko political jibberish: What is war? Just because you say it isn't a war because of your inane ability to ignore definitions that have been around for hundreds of years, does not mean its not war. Or did Rumsfeld bribe/threaten the poor sheeple at Webster's?

FAIL!!! The trouble with spanking is it shows your child that to solve a problem you use violence. You rule, Kevbone. Nobody says FAIL anymore. On a serious note, you're oversimplifying. You don't solve every problem with violence, you solve some of them with violence. Welcome to reality. Good post man. Oh, and screw off Kev...

Beastly. Roody, you raised him well; as a man and as a climber. Nice film Bob.

I don't remember congress declaring war on anyone. So really we are occupying. At the very least get that straight. And yes there is no end in sight and it is very much a tragedy. STFU Kev. Mire the topic in semantics. Really productive. Quit being such a flaming asshat.

Tell you what. If that war wasn't over, it is now. The funny thing (well not really) is that an Imam stated after being asked why there weren't more protests (like after the Koran burning) and he said that it wasn't as big of a deal (compared to the burning of the Koran). Very few people can understand the logic of those people; even those that have spent a lot of time dealing with the rural population. Their norms are so different from ours, any attempt to 'understand' them is futile. As for the soldier in question, I cannot fathom a guess. I HOPE that his documented head trauma was the culprit. In the end, it will do no good to stay now. With Hamid calling for our ousting, it is most certainly time to GTFO.

You look guilty as hell! You are a nice guy, but you DO look guilty.

It wasn't my grooming or my attitude. I had two passports: civilian and official. I handed them my civilian and I had placed my official in the glovebox. They took me inside and searched my car... 20-30 minutes later, a woman comes in and says, MR XXXXXX, if that is indeed your real name, are you or are you not a spy? So, I reply "yeah baby 007" So, I guess I deserved that one... but a spy? Really?

Oh and fuck Canada, they gave me a "detailed" search for being a spy. I kid you not. Shitheads.

The pederast crimes in WA enfuriate me. I was coaching a girl who was crying one day. Long story short, her foster dad had been repeatedly raping her over and over. After tuning the shit out on him, I called the cops and he got 6 months in jail. Six f-in months. He had been raping her longer than that. I wish that I was in the states when he got out; I would have buried his worthless carcass.

Ditto, I am a grad of this school and it is top notch.

Name (if you wish to be cited in a way other than your username): Age: 30 Weight: 185 Physical Height: 6'3" Name or Elevation of Childhood Town: 400ft AMSL *Side interest, used to determine if childhood environment impacts ability to adapt to certain levels of height while climbing- see Adaptions to Altitude: A Current Assessment by Cynthia M. Beall. Climbing Information Typical Carrying Capacity (if known): 120-130 lbs (is this what you are asking?) Years of Experience: 20 Highest Recorded Personal Height: 24,000 Longest Climb (Guesstimate): Mileage? 47 miles pitches? 21 Average Number of Climbing Partners: 10 Usual/Favorite locale: 11mile resevoir (colorado) Preferred Manufacturer(s): BD, Metolius, Arkteryx Personal Accounts - How often do you go climbing? With partners? Alone? Do you stick to areas you are familiar with or are you often in search for new conquests? I climb 2x a week in areas familiar and some unfamiliar - What do you consider the bare minimum in safety equipment for your typical heights? rope, some passive pro and 6 biners - On average, what does your climbing loadout consist of? set of nuts, camalot .75-3/5 metolius power cams from red down to blue purple or grey 10 essentials, - Do you find the weight of your gear to be a noticeable encumbrance? Has it ever endangered your safety? No, I climb pretty light. - Have you ever sacrificed a piece of necessary (or unnecessary) equipment for speed's sake? What was it? Why? Tent and sleeping bag on winter ascent of Long's peak. Speed was of the essence. Bivuoaced at 12,500 with another dude in a emergency blanket. Speed was of the essence as it was a long ski in and lots of snow covered rock to navigate. - What are some of the more notable injuries (if any) you have received while climbing? Where were you? In hindsight, is there anything that could have been done to avoid it? frostbite, pikes peak in the winter. I had a crappy fleece hat on and the wind cut right through it and I lost a piece of my ear. - Do you insist on your climbing partners having matching gear or do you spread out necessities amongst the group? How much “personalization” is involved? Not a ton, though I am more comfortable with my gear as I know when I am gripped what I need to plug the hole. - Has a climbing partner ever endangered themselves or the well-being of others? How? Was it an acceptable risk? Yep, he was an asshole that wanted to bring an obscenely small amount of gear on a winter ascent of maroon bells. I was prepared to bivuoac but we turned around because I was concerned that he would not survive if we got caught in the traverse. Should have let him do it.... - What constitutes an “acceptable risk” for yourself? I should believe that beyond a reasonable doubt that I will return... with my body parts still attached; unless it is a really bad-ass trip. - Has your safety equipment ever failed during a climb? What was it? What did you do? I had an old blue metolius (before the cam lobes) invert at index. It still held, but was destroyed. Other than that, everything has worked as advertised. - Why do you climb? To enjoy the outdoors and have another way to stay in shape and enjoy company with my partners. - Other comments:

Tried. Couldn't.

What if your sister beat the shit out of you and SHE has a hotter GF? Inquiring minds want to know!