rocky_joe

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/for_sale__wanted/headsup_about_user_bobmirko/106789945

What the hell Ivan. Don't go bringing actual climbing into a gem of thread like this one.

I wasn't even a thought at that point in time.

Edelwiess are shit ropes. Absolutely awful. I stick with Beal, Sterling, Mammut or Millet. I'm currently using a Beal 9.4, it's great, but I usually lead just as much as I TR on it. (I won a Petzl 10.3 in a raffle, so I TR on that!)

wish it would have been bluebird like that when i did it last spring. Good work and sweet pics.

it's Ueli, not Allen. and he's 34.

congrats on bagging yocum, what an achievement! absolutely fantastic write up as well (send that into a few magazines, I'm sure it'd get published), keep 'em coming. P.S. Pics? Not that they're needed...

holy shit man. that's bad-fuckin-ass. well done.

damn. nice pics.

damnwayne. that's awesome. thanks for the video stoke as well.

fecking shit man that'd awesome! fantastic photos as well.

Anything but Edelweiss, those ropes are shit. I love my beal and I have a few friends with Millets who rate them highly.

Amazing photos. Thanks for the great addition to TR beta. Way to get out and get it done!

You're right. It's not required but I guess I always like to err on the side of caution. Anytime I travel above tree line in winter and spring I carry my Crampons and an Axe. I don't always use them, but it's nice to know that if I need them, I have them. agree 100%. Also, Joseph, you make a great point. It is tragic that it takes an horrific accidents like these to reminds us of such things.

no need to blame someone for a mistake that doesn't affect you. especially when they've had to suffer severe consequences. that's low. We all make mistakes and hopefully learn from them, sometimes we can't and no one should be blaming us for making the wrong mistake. I offer my condolences to the family and friends of the fallen climber. You'll be in my thoughts.

This is not true. I have climbed St. Helens quite a few times, and unless it's summer time and it's a pile of ash, (In other words, if there is snow) I bring my axe and crampons. Used the crampons many times on ascent and decent. (unless I am skiing.) I used crampons for the last 200 ft or so...but I know of several people topping out without axe/crampons. I wouldn't go as far as to say that axe/crampons are required for a winter ascent, especially with skis.

Read the report again. They didn't get a chopper in until he was already dead. They couldn't have, with darkness coming around 6:00pm and the accident happening around 1:00pm there is no way the response could have been fast enough to get a crew in (avg MR response times are 10-12hrs).

Are you serious? Have you been up St. Helen's? Have you a fucking clue? The cornice drops off for 50-100 ft vertical to overhung before it turns to a 70-80 degreee slope. Climbing St. Helens does not require a rope; it does not require crampons, an axe, or any technical gear. From TH to Summit it is a mere 5 mile hike, there is no need to bring a sleeping bag. So, riddle me this. How the hell would his partners get to him without technical gear? And once they got there what would they do for him as they were not carrying anything that would have saved him?

Blowing a whistle does not mean he could climb out. get a clue.

Yes, SAR teams have the mentioned gear, but SAR teams do not aim to create more risk than they have to when carrying out a rescue. Downclimbing/Rappelling 70deg snow/ice that is formed on bad rock is not safe for individual parties and is well outside of the acceptable risk level of any rescue team (read: liable institution). SAR teams (Mountain units included) are volunteers and not professional climbers, therefor do not necessarily have sufficient staff to carry out such a technically precipitous endeavor, especially when a helicopter could perform the task with much less risk. Also as previously mentioned, the fall would likely be fatal (and in this case it, regrettably was) as the top of the rim to the bottom of the crater ranges from 1000-1200 feet, so rescue is not as likely as recovery. Just saying.

Want to get a look at them while you're up there? What South Side are you going up? You cannot see the Black Spider from the south...or summit. To get a look you have to walk over to the Newton-Clark. And yes, the routes are real hard...usually unprotectable.

jealous. that is all.

Shitfire-Rat Cave

we're not all boners.

all these new kids obviously did realize they came to cascadeclimbers.com where spraying accomplishments mean more than climbing. back on track...that tattoo is fuckin ridiculous. I'd def have a good hard laugh if a buddy of mine showed me that.