rocky_joe

Conditions last week were great for climbing, not so much for skiing. A storm moving through the area right now might change that. When are you planning on climbing?

Wondering if anyone knows how close I can get to the TH for either the north side or the easton. Also, if anyone want to climb/ski mid-week next week, drop me a PM.

Rad Ben. That's a really fun line, did it last year, but in A LOT nicer conditions. Way to get after it.

and all sponsored by those most trusted climbing companies: Black Diaband and La Sporiva!

Not a weekend, but I'll be in Bham from the 16th-18th of april and am itching to get it done, even if there's a heinous ski in.

Nothing concrete yet, just trying to work out some potential partners for some early season climbs. I'll be between Hood and Baker between the 15th and 27th of April and want to climb and ski as much as weather and snowpack allows in preparation for another season at Shasta. Ideally, I'll find someone to do a few climbs with, but am always happy to climb with lots of new faces. The routes I'm most stoked on: N. Ridge of Baker, Kautz Glacier, North Gully-Right on Hood, Triple Couloir on D-tail, Ice Cliff on Stuart. Pretty much anything sounds fun at the moment, as I haven't had my fix of slogging since I've been in Bozeman. I know this is REALLY early to be doing a lot of these routes, but I'm not gonna have much time once June/July roll around with work on Shasta. PM me and let's get out!

When you lay down lake ice is pretty much WI5, maybe someone should repeat it and correct the grading.

Having trouble figuring out where to tie in.

+1 for a mountaineers course. another (more expensive but more comprehensive) would be to do a course with a guide service (plenty of awesome companies to choose from in WA). Despite formal education being a wonderful avenue into climbing, I would encourage you to get out on some glacier or snow climbs with willing people from this board. Not only will you meet people in the community, you will get advice and experience from them that might not get across in a formal setting.

My case was preceded by AMS symptoms and I probably should have turned down sooner, but lesson learned. My clients case was very sudden onset; I did not observe any symptoms of serious or moderate AMS previous to him vomiting and displaying a severely altered mental state. His symptoms were alleviated somewhat with hydration, food intake and rapid descent. He suffered an anxiety attack (for which my best guess was a combination of emotional and physical stress, and fatigue from his episode) on the drive back to town. You are right in saying that HACE does not usually occur at altitudes gained in the contiguous 48, however I think that might be a skewed statistic because it is usually much more simple to descend from altitude in WA or CO than it is in AK, the Himilaya or S. America. And recall that there have been many deaths in the US where even a moderate case of AMS combined with otherwise manageable situations has resulted in death. Having not climbed any sierra 14ers I can only go from what people have told me; most say that climbing Shasta (much simpler than Rainier) is very much harder than the standard climbs/hikes of the Sierras, neither of which have any significant glacier travel/danger. I think that the Casaval Ridge would prepare you well for the DC's climbing and altitude, however March is a wonderfully unpredictable month for weather on Shasta. Huge storms can move in very, very quickly and sit for days, dropping feet and blowing at or above gale force. If you decide to try it, I'd definitely find a partner (any of your serious mountaineering buddies should jump at this if you advertise the 7k ski at the end) and try to pick a weather window. The best thing about casaval is that for most of the route retreat to the west face (and is some parts Avalanche Gulch) is quite easy. And considering that the weather, usually moves in from the SW you'll have a good view on how things in the sky are shaping up (and cell phone reception to get up-to-date wx forecasts). p.s. must have misread that you had climbed in CO, perhaps it was one of the other "e-mountaineers" haha!

Also, as a solo climber on a well cracked glacier, rope and crevasse rescue skills are irrelevant, unless you're bringing your pug and making him walk first to test the bridges...

The reasons for early starts on Rainier have been pretty clearly stated, as have the reasons that someone who has only climbed CO 14ers ought to consider Rainier a different animal entirely. For the itinerary you have posted, anything but an alpine start is foolish. Not only will starting early make your travel up safer and faster, it will give you time, once on top to see how you are dealing with the altitude and, perhaps, descend to a lower elevation for the night (see climb high, sleep low). I don't think it wise to attempt a single day solo with the intent of carrying bivy/camping gear to spend the night up top with a late start; the weight from the gear will slow you down (15lbs is a lot to move 40,000 steps) potentially leaving you climbing into the night (which would also mean digging a tent/bivy site in the dark). As a guide on Mt. Shasta, I would never advise my clients or other climbers to make an attempt at camping on or near the summit. Hell, I'd be wary of such a thing even after a summer of living between 8-14k. If you haven't any experience with how your body feels with AMS or even HACE you shouldn't be so quick to say that you'll simply go down. I've had HACE; one's ability to make decisions, have thoughts or deal with shit is absolutely nil. I've also had a client with HACE, and seen how difficult it is for them to do simple tasks even with me holding their hand and coaching them through every step down. Apart from the medical complications that could arise, the physical aspect is equally large, even if you're in the best shape of your life. 9k of snow travel in a day is huge, especially coming from lower elevations and without prior experience on Rainier; if you start late it will be an even bigger challenge. People have and will continue to die doing such things. I think you'd be wise to listen to the legitimate feedback you've been given by some very strong, experienced WA climbers and reconsider your plans.

why do you think master cams blow? I haven't used enough other things to know how/if they're worse.

Metolius Mastercams up to 4(red), BD C4 .75(green) and up. my $.02.

Gonna be in washington this week and trying to climb as much as possible. would really appreciate Any recent report on conditions for the following routes: Shuksan fischer chimneys or price gl. Mt. Baker- n. Ridge Mt. Rainier- kautz gl. or anything else that's on. Thanks a lot, Joe

I think that is a gopher snake. It doesn't have the triangular shaped head that a rattler does nor the pit organ depression that all pit vipers have. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crotalinae As for the baby debate, I recall learning in WFR that rattlesnakes are more likely use venom in a bite than older snakes, who will bite for defense without using venom. When adult snakes use venom the dose is higher, which is still inline with the previously posted article. So it would seem that you're more likely to be injected with venom by a young snake, but more likely to suffer venomous effects if an older snake uses their venom. "Rattlesnakes are born with fully functioning fangs capable of injecting venom and can regulate the amount of venom they inject when biting. Generally they deliver a full dose of venom to their prey, but may deliver less venom or none at all when biting defensively. A frightened or injured snake may not exercise such control. Young snakes are also dangerous,[4] and should not be treated with any less caution than the adults." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rattlesnake

yeah, they are. but they weren't mine. that pic is from over 2 years ago and they were my room mate's. Haven't a clue, sorry.

So, you've never seen someone (at which ever crag/mountain) do something you really thought was unsafe and ask them about their decision? Really? This was the first time I've ever said anything to anyone regarding what/how they were climbing. In my few years, I've seen people do some downright stupid stuff, but I've always minded my own business and not made a peep-- surely there was a reason they were doing something different. However, when I saw this guy, whoever he was, leading people up a mountain where rock/ice fall hurts/kills people every year without a helmet, I just asked. I don't need 30-40 years of experience to know that a helmet is worthwhile on any route with that much (or any) shit falling, because I've been on the hill to see people get pretty messed up because a piece of ice hit them.

Some of you fucking people on this website are just so high on your horse it's unreal. You're really taking time out of your day to rip me apart for being a reasonably (and admittedly) new climber. You don't know anything about me apart from the few TR's I've elected to post here. The party leader was clearly taking some very green climbers through the gates. He was not wearing a helmet in the Pearly Gates in May, on a busy, warm day. Rime was falling everywhere (some quite large pieces) as were pieces of the crust from climbers above. Not wearing a helmet as a group leader seem liked a poor decision/mistake, so I asked. You act as if one sentence defines my attitude as a climber And you post my first TR as a way to prove how much your junior I am; as if you were never new to the sport. Follow your own advice and mind your own fucking business.

probably not til the 12th as the suspension is through the 11th. life's a bitch.

If you felt my TR was spoiled with 1 sermon why did you feel compelled to add a 2nd. Thanks for the feedback asshole.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall Date: 5/21/2011 Trip Report: My friend Tom and I went up the DK Friday morning via the 1d variation (Oregon High). We had planned to do the 1c variation so we could get on the Wy'east traverse again. We changed plans because of concerns about snow stability. We found a 2-3 inch breakable crust on top of 8-12" of graupel and faceted snow all on top of a good hard layer. As we hit the base of the route right after sunrise (~5:20), we elected to play our cards conservatively and avoid the avi prone slope on the wy'east. The climb is a fantastic introduction to the steeper routes on Hood. We found ~200' of solid water ice with an ~80 deg crux at the top of it all. We simuled the bottom section of the gully to the crux + 1 short pitch to protect the crux. Route might be in another week or two if it keeps getting heat and sun. Anyways, glad we weren't going up the south side, it was a cluster fuck Friday, as was the summit. When we summited there were ~25 people on top with more on the summit ridge. We chose a quick, direct descent through the pearly gates. Saw some wanker leading a rope team (long roped without pro) not wearing a fucking helmet. To him I said, "No helmet today?" He responded, "nope." "Well...have fun with that." Apparently the Dean Potter commitment to light and fast has caught on at Timberline. No pics, sorry. My camera's batteries were dead when I pulled it out to snap some of the crux section. Gear Notes: 6 screws (used 4) 2 pickets (used 1) 50 m half-rope tools Approach Notes: Full Moon bar & grill (Boring, OR) is closed til 11 June due to a liquor license violation. Couldn't have been more disappointed.

The Thoroughbred of Sin or Fuck it, get the bolt gun.

I really think that is a harsh thing to say. And there are more than a few cases in which it is demonstrably incorrect. Smith Rock is probably the shining example of this, bolts, fixed draws and "sport tactics" abound, yet because the ethical battle that some climbers get off on (looking at you Raindawg)has been kept as a disagreement among climbers and not affected the general public access is not questioned by the park or forest service. In fact, sport tactics and the sport community can greatly effect increases in access. Several Oregon crags come to mind, Smith, Flagstone, Callahans, The Garden, Carver Cliffs to name a few, have worked with private and public landowners and managers to ensure that the community will have access to use the area, often te local sport community at these crags takes days to perform trail maintenance, trash pick-up etc. It is overly general to say that sport tactics have any effect on climbers ability to access rock. As long as the sport climbing community adheres to general LNT principles and respects their co-users, there isn't any problem. I think it's also unfair to say that fixed draws negatively affect another type of user's enjoyment of the area. I know in many cases that (non-climber) hikers enjoy watching people climb or even just seeing that there is a route to be climbed. I would guess that the mean hiker is indifferent between fixed draws or not. The conversation we are having should be viewed in the correct scope. Ethics are a local thing, both geographically and socially. A crag and the climbers who use that crag develop the ethical code for proper use of the rock. There is not one set of ethics that can be applied to all crags and to argue as such is to be misguided in your approach.

thanks for the info kurt.