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Everything posted by kroc

  1. Did you take any pictures? I don't think I took my camera that day. We climbed Vesper Peak N face the next day and it was a lot more chill.
  2. I climbed the SW face of Whitechuck in 2003. We followed the two paragraph description in green Beckey. It was pretty accurate, 800 ft. six pitches, last one was kinda loose. I remember the rock was steep, solid and positive. Vertical 5.6 on big holds seemed right. The rock was solid featured greenschist I think. We found very little protection, occasional crappy small pieces. I remember running out chunks of 50+ mostly, maybe one pitch I only got one piece in ?? We would climb out half the rope and start looking for an anchor, fuzzy memories but usually two junky pieces or one decent piece and a good stance. The lack of pro was just manageable for us because of the solid featured rock. The nerve racking thing for me was that all around were these big swaths of horrible rock shattered in blocks large and small. I was afraid because I was run out 60 ft. over a horizonal small nut and wondering if I was climbing into a trap of looseness and downclimbing to a anchor I might not be too psyched to rap off of. The rock never failed and was featured enough that you could stay on you feet. I probably was wearing decent rock shoes and was always able to climb in control. Was around a 5.9 trad leader at least 33% of the time those days. Because of the heady nature and difficulty placing gear we took a long time to get up six pitches. Not that we had to put on headlamps or anything, but I definatly remember thinking the time per pitch was way off our normal. I wonder if pitons would have been helpful. I would not repeat this route and wouldn't specifically recommend it. But I am happy to have done it and enjoyed much of the climbing. It had a free solo feel to it, only it was a team effort. Seventeen years? Trust any beta from me at your own risk.
  3. Cramps

    I assume that you know this to be a metabolic issue. You can get leg cramps due to nerve damage for example. If you have insurance than going to an MD is a no brainer. Get some blood and urine tests that cover your kidneys, endocrine, and metabolic systems to rule out an underlying pathology. Reflex checks for nerve function? Do some prior research so you can advocate for tests that you think might be important. Sorry, but I don't have full confidence in some family practice MD's. No insurance and limited resources? -Examime your diet, especially salts and natural diuretics. -There are some good examples of electrolyte replacements above, try only replacments, no straight water during activity. -Are you really sweating that much? Some people just do, but are you doing everything you can from a clothing prospective to minimize fluid and electrolyte loss? You might end up doing approaches bare cheasted in running shorts or tropical sun protective clothing. And freezing at any stop! Good luck.
  4. Suggestions for summer alpine trips/expeditions

    I went to the Canadian Rockies this summer and found beta quite challenging, even for the easy trade routes that we had targeted. There is http://www.acmg.ca/mcr/ A starting point for decision making. I think unless you know a guide personally, you won't get much value from them. Maybe if you have very specific questions; but I think listening to their responses are pretty amusing as they are always a combination of stoke: "yeah it'll go, you guys should get after it" and hedging: " Weelll, this year that 'shrund will be huge...lots of rockfall...moat...grizzlies...etc" If you find good beta for the C Rockies, please share. My advice is to get on one of the bigger Rainier routes and try to get some real time in Canada with a srong partner and poke around and see what is climbable. Maybe not an ideal maximization of your time, but what can you do? Does anybody on this board know for example know: How often is Kitchener Grand Central Couloir climbed a year? What time of year these days? Best bet, go on your Xmas break to ice climb and make a few aquaintances and come back for 1-2 mounths in the summer. Good luck, and make TRs.
  5. Great TR and stoke! Gourmet sandwiches must have been the secret weapon.
  6. My 2 cents: I love the enchantments and maybe I am spoiled having been up there half a dozen times, but I say head north. If you usually go to the Sierras, you will find the enchantments the closest thing Wa has to them. the north cascades might give you more variety. After all, Prusik Peak is our Incredible Hulk, only half the size.
  7. Wow. This means that exit 38 is destination climbing. You've come a long way baby! A friend of mine takes his kids camping at the Denny creek campground and has good things to say. Exit 47. Forest service. Have fun, if you start at the trestle area you will never leave Canada again.
  8. Leavenworth camping

    Yes sarcasm, we did not throw anything into the icicle. It was April first ya know.
  9. Leavenworth camping

    We went two weeks ago and there are some dry sites. Free. Outhouse unlocked, bring your own TP, water, and throw your trash in the icicle.
  10. Uh, have you considered stairmaster? You can watch Jerry Springer while you get your burn.
  11. If I wrote country music

    I would write a song titled: "All my trips to Squamash end up in Leavenworth".
  12. WTB: Dallas Kloke's 2005 Mt. Erie Guide

    It was for sale at the grocery next to mt erie as of a few weeks ago.
  13. To Tape or Not to Tape?

    I say tape if your job puts you in contact with infected wounds and worse!
  14. Avalanche Beacon

    Good review: http://www.backcountrymagazine.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=565&Itemid=61
  15. Moving to Seattle advice

    I think the bigger adjustment will be working at harborview. That should be a big welcome to the city. I believe that the repeated advice to sign a six month lease is the best idea, you have time to figure out where you want to be. I live in first hill, right next to harborview, and like it. I walk everywhere. Do you feel that you will like an urban enviro? Can you deal with small apts? Are you loners, because if you are new additions to the burbs or rural areas it might take awhile to make friends. I don't think living in issaquah resembles living south of Missula any more than first/capital hill.
  16. So much for the "best healthcare"

    I think my feeling is that in our health care system the final line of defense, so to speak, is the hospital. There the patient recieves full care. Inefficient? Costly? Too late in many cases? Yes,yes, and yes, but seeing as how this is my day to day experience I guess I'm a bit defensive. I call an MD and say I'm worried about pt X: how about an X-ray, or CT scan? More labs. Lets get physical therapy involved. (I personally drive up health care costs) Never is the cost or payment considered. I can't imagine thinking differently and if I think people are suggesting otherwise it bugs me. I'm not trying to defend the whole of the health care system. By the way, diabetes type two can be easily treated if people change their diet and activity. HA!
  17. So much for the "best healthcare"

    Hi GGK, Im an RN at Swedish first hill. I don't doubt the study you linked but the idea the increased death rate is due to getting a quick patch job in the ER is unclear. It seemed to me that the study implied lack of primary care for cronic/long term health problems was the concern. I'm not going to argue that our health care system is the greatest. There is a nationwide shortage of IV pepcid as of this weekend. WTF? I don't understand the mechanics of these shortages but most of the health care system is not defending this status quo. My disagreement was the idea that insurance dictates care on the hospital floor. J_B stated this as well. This is not the truth that I see. The sad reality is that patient X has high blood pressure, diabetes, renal insufficency and gets no treatment because he is uninsured. Then his leg gets infected from a toe wound that doesn't heal, he gets septic and is taken to the ER then the ICU where he is saved from certain death that was only 2 days away at best. Once the infection is decreased enough to operate, his foot/leg will be amputated. He will stay at the hospital for about 3-4 weeks because he/she has no money and needs 24 hour care. Help to the bathroom, dressing changes, etc. During his stay he/she goes through the ER, ICU, and a surgical floor. He/she is seen by hospitalist, infectious disease specialist, vascular surgeon, and nephrologist. This is a common scenario Who pays? Everybody really, but my point is that the fact that the pt is uninsured changes nothing in the above example.
  18. So much for the "best healthcare"

    I think the ability of hospitals to turn down non-insured patients is overstated. There are many patients in hospitals for months and months that will never pay a cent. They can not be discharged because they are not healthy enough to get by on their own and nursing homes can and do refuse placement. These patients always have specialists following them and often multiple surgical interventions. I work in Seattle, not harborview; every unit has one or two of these patients. The cost is eaten by the hospital, required by law to admit and provide all nessary care. I can attest that this is truly done and not just lip service.
  19. Leavenworth Monday 6/27

    Hi Sherri, Might be up for L-worth tomorrow, still need a partner? I climb around the same level. Am at work 'till almost 8:00 PM today, will check post at times. Let me know -Jeff PS I think you know Traisa, I climbed/skied with her once or twice if you need a reference.
  20. I second iluka's advice. Complications of sugery can really set you back, and usually more and more issues (such as infections) start to crop up. (I'm an RN on a post surgical unit). Here is the problem with climbing as I see it: as you are healing you want to really listen to your body, gradually increasing activity and backing down as needed. Seems like climbing encourages more dynamic type movements that use your whole core and might be executed faster than your body's "stop" warning (pain). Might be a good idea to ease back in to leading so you don't feel forced to do certain moves. I'm sure your surgeon is conservative, but why not. Sucks to be out just as the weather is getting better but as was said above this is the strategy for the best out come: more climbing. Starting earlier might gain you a few weeks but the risk is the rest of the year. Best thing is to HONESTLY listen to your body. See you out there soon.
  21. Montana- what gives?

    Bozeman pass has some good limestone. The gallatin canyon 20 mi south of I-90 has limestone sport that was somewhat limited when left in 2002 but I heard that it was greatly expanded. This is seperate from the trad gallatin canyon stuff that is more well known (and worth checking out). I'm sure climbing shops in bozeman could tell you more. Helena has granite and limestone, never made it out there so I can only tell you it exists. Butte has alot of granite, some bolted routes. My experence with Montana was that there was plenty of fun climbing, but I was always excited to leave the state to get at the top tier (quality wise) climbing areas.