Jump to content

kroc

Members
  • Content count

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About kroc

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

Converted

  • Location
    Seattle
  1. Did you take any pictures? I don't think I took my camera that day. We climbed Vesper Peak N face the next day and it was a lot more chill.
  2. I climbed the SW face of Whitechuck in 2003. We followed the two paragraph description in green Beckey. It was pretty accurate, 800 ft. six pitches, last one was kinda loose. I remember the rock was steep, solid and positive. Vertical 5.6 on big holds seemed right. The rock was solid featured greenschist I think. We found very little protection, occasional crappy small pieces. I remember running out chunks of 50+ mostly, maybe one pitch I only got one piece in ?? We would climb out half the rope and start looking for an anchor, fuzzy memories but usually two junky pieces or one decent piece and a good stance. The lack of pro was just manageable for us because of the solid featured rock. The nerve racking thing for me was that all around were these big swaths of horrible rock shattered in blocks large and small. I was afraid because I was run out 60 ft. over a horizonal small nut and wondering if I was climbing into a trap of looseness and downclimbing to a anchor I might not be too psyched to rap off of. The rock never failed and was featured enough that you could stay on you feet. I probably was wearing decent rock shoes and was always able to climb in control. Was around a 5.9 trad leader at least 33% of the time those days. Because of the heady nature and difficulty placing gear we took a long time to get up six pitches. Not that we had to put on headlamps or anything, but I definatly remember thinking the time per pitch was way off our normal. I wonder if pitons would have been helpful. I would not repeat this route and wouldn't specifically recommend it. But I am happy to have done it and enjoyed much of the climbing. It had a free solo feel to it, only it was a team effort. Seventeen years? Trust any beta from me at your own risk.
  3. Cramps

    I assume that you know this to be a metabolic issue. You can get leg cramps due to nerve damage for example. If you have insurance than going to an MD is a no brainer. Get some blood and urine tests that cover your kidneys, endocrine, and metabolic systems to rule out an underlying pathology. Reflex checks for nerve function? Do some prior research so you can advocate for tests that you think might be important. Sorry, but I don't have full confidence in some family practice MD's. No insurance and limited resources? -Examime your diet, especially salts and natural diuretics. -There are some good examples of electrolyte replacements above, try only replacments, no straight water during activity. -Are you really sweating that much? Some people just do, but are you doing everything you can from a clothing prospective to minimize fluid and electrolyte loss? You might end up doing approaches bare cheasted in running shorts or tropical sun protective clothing. And freezing at any stop! Good luck.
  4. Suggestions for summer alpine trips/expeditions

    I went to the Canadian Rockies this summer and found beta quite challenging, even for the easy trade routes that we had targeted. There is http://www.acmg.ca/mcr/ A starting point for decision making. I think unless you know a guide personally, you won't get much value from them. Maybe if you have very specific questions; but I think listening to their responses are pretty amusing as they are always a combination of stoke: "yeah it'll go, you guys should get after it" and hedging: " Weelll, this year that 'shrund will be huge...lots of rockfall...moat...grizzlies...etc" If you find good beta for the C Rockies, please share. My advice is to get on one of the bigger Rainier routes and try to get some real time in Canada with a srong partner and poke around and see what is climbable. Maybe not an ideal maximization of your time, but what can you do? Does anybody on this board know for example know: How often is Kitchener Grand Central Couloir climbed a year? What time of year these days? Best bet, go on your Xmas break to ice climb and make a few aquaintances and come back for 1-2 mounths in the summer. Good luck, and make TRs.
  5. Great TR and stoke! Gourmet sandwiches must have been the secret weapon.
  6. My 2 cents: I love the enchantments and maybe I am spoiled having been up there half a dozen times, but I say head north. If you usually go to the Sierras, you will find the enchantments the closest thing Wa has to them. the north cascades might give you more variety. After all, Prusik Peak is our Incredible Hulk, only half the size.
  7. Wow. This means that exit 38 is destination climbing. You've come a long way baby! A friend of mine takes his kids camping at the Denny creek campground and has good things to say. Exit 47. Forest service. Have fun, if you start at the trestle area you will never leave Canada again.
  8. Leavenworth camping

    Yes sarcasm, we did not throw anything into the icicle. It was April first ya know.
  9. Leavenworth camping

    We went two weeks ago and there are some dry sites. Free. Outhouse unlocked, bring your own TP, water, and throw your trash in the icicle.
  10. Uh, have you considered stairmaster? You can watch Jerry Springer while you get your burn.
  11. If I wrote country music

    I would write a song titled: "All my trips to Squamash end up in Leavenworth".
  12. WTB: Dallas Kloke's 2005 Mt. Erie Guide

    It was for sale at the grocery next to mt erie as of a few weeks ago.
×