trainwreck

+1 on the hexes. Also, get a decent rack of pins if you're planning on climbing choss. The two smallest knifeblades, two smallest Lost Arrows, and the smallest angle is a good start.

Nice work Al! We should hit up Squamish at some point this summer (It's Grant btw).

What year is the DAS from? Polarguard or primaloft insulation?

Hi Dane, I wouldn't know. I am in Vancouver this winter chained to my computer and a library desk getting edu-ma-cated. I do know that there has been an insane amount of snow in the alpine in Jasper and along the Parkway this year. It sounds like more a ski traverse type of spring than a alpine climbing type to me, but I think that routes like the Humble Horse and Asteroid Alley will form up really well in late April early May. I had some friends on Asteroid Alley a month or so ago (they wore beacons for the approach) and said it was in good shape and had been climbed recently.

I have a two door Bibler I-Tent which is awesome, it's heavier than the Firstlight but slightly more versatile.

Curtain Call starts to get some sun in the afternoon in late March/early April as does Murchison. I would imagine Polar Circus would be climbable but you'd have to do it pretty much all in the dark. It gets a lot of sun early and stays on it the majority of the day. Professors would still be good, as would Whiteman Falls, like Dane said the Field climbs would still be okay but it's a bit late for water ice.

It really depends on the piece of gear IMO. I have found that Patagonia stuff fits me well, lasts forever and is made with an eye towards environmental sustainability and non-sweatshop conditions (read Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard). It costs a pretty penny, but I buy a lot of stuff used and get it for far less than retail. I have nothing but good to say about Arcteryx too, I have an Alpha Comp Jacket that has held up better than almost every other jacket I own despite me wearing summer and winter. The other products I own from them have been excellent quality, again, bought almost all of it used. That said, I would never buy things that wear out quickly, like gloves, from Arcteryx.It simply costs too much to replace them as often as I need to. I have found companies with solid warranty plans like OR are a better bet. I also know there are great companies out there like NW Alpine which make, from what I hear, great gear at a reasonable price. My experience with lower end gear has been mixed, Lowe Alpine stuff seems to disintegrate and MEC stuff is pretty poorly made but backed with a really decent warranty.

The Ortovox S1 is only $274 at backcountry atm. Plus shipping back to Ortovox for the newest software update. Still a smoking deal though.

Ted is smarter than most cats I've met. He's MENSA-level in his trickery. I like Dane's idea that they're the our lost friends reincarnated. If that's the case, the Weeping Wall Ted is John Lauchlan which could explain the cigarettes...

Is this the same jacket you bought at mountainproject for $125?

Would it be reasonable to put Silvretta 404's on these and use them as approach skis? Can they actually climb steep stuff decently?

Ted is a wily creature. You're better to leave an offering for him then allowing him to rummage through your stuff. Alternately, gear up at the car and carry everything you need in a bullet pack.

Expect a looong day.

Dane, You're a great guy and super strong willed. I have no doubt you'll manage the chemo and come through this thing! When you're healthy we'll go climb some ice and talk some gear. Stay strong and keep us informed. Grant

That is the descent route for the Shooting Gallery. No one actually tops out to the East summit.

If you talk to the folks at the Info Centre (Adam specifically) he'll be able to walk you through the entire descent. The times I have done it, we had two ropes and made v-threads from the AA Col proper to the AA glacier. Easy peasy.

I have been accepted to school in Vancouver so I am going to be a real Cascade Climber come September! I look forward to some ice and alpiney misadventures with you lot.

I don't think you can fly from the visitor centre.

Great job John!

If you can't climb the routes at Cineplex then your opinion about how others do is moot.

The hardest thing about learning to snow blade is coming out to your parents.

The 350a is hands down the best harness I've ever used.

Tried it last week actually. Still way too wet, but it's in enough to climb. Full value WI6 atm.

This is completely and totally untrue in my experience. Also, NO ONE I know who climbs hard ice does so with mono points. If it's WI5/6 the vast majority of people I know use Sabretooth Pros and a small minority use vertical frontpoints.

FYI Nomics climb ice better than most other tools too.