trainwreck

mountaineering. serious business. i'd be surprised if you get a response, your post makes you sound like a dickbag and someone who would be no fun in the mountains. and you're doing a walk up route, chill the fuck out.

Yep that would be my guess..straight shafts and leashes are ripping you, Marc. And you know I am not kidding. The rest is easy. It's the one arm pull ups that are tough to come by. Is there really any reliable WI6 on the Coast? Think you've been busted on that one already by Trainwreck We should get away to the Rockies where I could sic your skinny, finger crimping, one arm pull up ass on some WI6 so I could have a nice, sane, safe and weenie TR And you can meet Trainwreck. I'll even lend you my twins, tools and screws for the trip! when are you coming out this way? I have a rope gun you should meet. He's super keen for the Astrain.

that tool sucks for ice climbing though.

i love la sportiva but they always seem to fit my feet well.

one thing to remember about OR gloves is that they have an "infinite" guarantee. i have sent back at least four pairs of alibis after destroying them and they ALWAYS send me a new pair.

Hard to tell from the photos/video but that doesn't look like any WI6 that I've ever seen. It looks like a pretty standard WI5, maybe an R or X if it has some collapse potential. Length of the column from the mushrooms at its base looks about 10-12m and appears from below to only be vertical for ~8m, it looks like it lies back from where he placed the screw.

M4+?

awesome dane!

I think I know who Semple is talking about.

Is that you Graham? Grant, but yeah, it's me!

i wondered if you guys made it up, too bad about the injury though. i was the parks guy who sent you there.

what is the point of this trip report? why bother posting at all if you're not going to talk about the route?

once you go black you never go back. nomics all the way. i climbed some sweet millwell ice today too, so you're not the only one thinking about the coming winter!

i take it to mean the Lowe/Glidden route; AFAIK Jay is friends with JR and Chris so he knows about that one and everyone knows about the House/Anderson line. Dana also wanted to free it without drytooling because he likes rock climbing just that much.

i meant "available for purchase" not 'marked down.' i'd have to pay the full price.

i saw them and thought of you. i am also thinking of snatching up a pair for winter as they are already on sale at MEC. then i think about the fact that they're overkill for 90% of what i do and that what i really need is a pair of nepals. i was also given a pair of old asolo doubles so i really don't need new ones without a decent pair of leather boots first. a man can dream though...

Linky

La Sportiva Baruntse

the sabretooth is the only crampon you'll ever need.

the guy in the video died two years ago in a free diving accident in the caribbean. he was a great climber, excellent guide, and all around awesome dude. it is understood by everyone that he was joking.

Jay Mills and Jody Sutherland were the Canadians.

i'd be surprised if it gets done once a season now. i've been living out here for 5 years and in that time i know of one ascent. i am sure it gets done a little more often than what i have heard/seen but it isn't very frequently.

I recently broke my leg and needed surgery to put plate/pins in it. All in all, I spent three days in hospital, had surgery to repair torn ligaments and put in a plate, and took a three and half hour ambulance ride to get to the surgeon. I paid nothing. In fact, I owed Alberta Healthcare $180 because I hadn't paid my premiums all winter (they stopped charging in January), but they don't give a shit, they fixed me right up. I recently had to go to emergency to get my cast off as there was a lot of bleeding underneath. It took less than three hours and, again, cost me nothing.

curtain call looks SO good this year. nice job!

Neither. First pitch of a probable new route. Should be two or three good pitches of m6 when it's finished (next year when i can complete it)