
trainwreck
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Everything posted by trainwreck
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dubstep
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Pre 2007 Cobra, going leashless
trainwreck replied to Dirtbag Packwork's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
the old viper pommel attachments will fit with some effort. i've done it to mine and they've help up for quite a while. -
I rock a Marmot Flurry and it is wicked. I have abused it beyond what I thought it could take and it is still nice and warm. Lots of holes and still kicking. Normally I wouldn't even consider Marmot clothing but it was riducheap.
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2 way zipper is an absolute must imo. as is an integrated hood.
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I have a feeling Will took a really shitty approach line in that post. I know the route he was heading for and there's a much easier, safer and faster approach that he failed to consider.
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you americans are really weird about guns. like, really weird.
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Sabretooth Pro. QED.
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Cool video! I think I saw you swing your tools four times during the whole thing.
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I know not everyone uses the plastic jobs from BD and Petzl, if you're not, what are you using? Why?
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You can have Cody (that's not true, I'd love to go there) because if I have to drive that far to climb ice, I am driving to AK. If we drive any more than an hour and a half I get whiny.
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The Banff/Canmore area is pretty sick for WI climbing. It's a shame about all the people though.
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Shoe goo is great for reattaching soles to mountaineering boots!
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My ropegun walked to base of Slipstream the other day and said that it looks excellent. We've been thinking of Asteroid Alley/A-Strain as well, but haven't heard of anyone out that way from our end of the parkway. Didn't hear about anyone on GCC either but am pretty unsurprised that it's been attempted as the weather has been excellent. It is in excellent shape! It hasn't been affected by the warm temps or the sun and the pro is excellent and plentiful. Lots of good rests for the feet with engaging little cruxes. I will admit that we've been on it a lot this year so I feel pretty comfortable with most of the moves by now, but it is getting easier with traffic. The first time I lead the first real pitch it took over 2.5 hours and I bypassed the large overhang by traversing left! Last time we were there I did the overhang, it's definitely WI6 as it comes at ~45m mark. The second pitch is WI5 though, it's a fair bit shorter with a few overhanging bits, but great rests and great gear. Ice nine OTOH......scary. I am glad it collapsed because I shouldn't have climbed it once, let alone go back and try to link both pitches.
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Haven't heard of anyone on either but also haven't been down the parkway in a week. Most people are starting to think alpine though and everyone is waiting for someone else to head out first. Such is Rockies climbing!
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It has been a good season up this way. South facing stuff has been pounded by sun the last few weeks but the alpine is shaping up nicely. Did you get on Curtain Call? It's in excellent shape atm, probably the best of all the parkway climbs.
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ummmmm no.
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i have a pair of reds in my tele boots. orange in my old mountaineering boots, another pair of orange in my running shoes, and some green ones in my hiking boots. i think maybe another set of greens in my snowboard boots as well.
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i can't believe you guys are bitching about the price.
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profile view + roll eyes = internet victory belayers doesn't use them either so we're okay with the hazard falling tools pose. i don't use umbilicals soloing either.
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i climb leashless without umbilicals pretty much all the time. i also read alpinist. i hope i am okay.
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i have honestly never given any thought to how i belay someone, other than 'feed slack when they're clipping' 'be ready to catch their whipper' etc etc. is it because i have never been belay certified?
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I am from Canada and we think that tatoo is the definition of lame.
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Finishing Hammer Gully and Bow Falls are great moderates as well.
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The Great Zombie Jeebus didn't help Tobin Sorenson in the NF of Alberta.