trainwreck

Shoe goo is great for reattaching soles to mountaineering boots!

My ropegun walked to base of Slipstream the other day and said that it looks excellent. We've been thinking of Asteroid Alley/A-Strain as well, but haven't heard of anyone out that way from our end of the parkway. Didn't hear about anyone on GCC either but am pretty unsurprised that it's been attempted as the weather has been excellent. It is in excellent shape! It hasn't been affected by the warm temps or the sun and the pro is excellent and plentiful. Lots of good rests for the feet with engaging little cruxes. I will admit that we've been on it a lot this year so I feel pretty comfortable with most of the moves by now, but it is getting easier with traffic. The first time I lead the first real pitch it took over 2.5 hours and I bypassed the large overhang by traversing left! Last time we were there I did the overhang, it's definitely WI6 as it comes at ~45m mark. The second pitch is WI5 though, it's a fair bit shorter with a few overhanging bits, but great rests and great gear. Ice nine OTOH......scary. I am glad it collapsed because I shouldn't have climbed it once, let alone go back and try to link both pitches.

Haven't heard of anyone on either but also haven't been down the parkway in a week. Most people are starting to think alpine though and everyone is waiting for someone else to head out first. Such is Rockies climbing!

It has been a good season up this way. South facing stuff has been pounded by sun the last few weeks but the alpine is shaping up nicely. Did you get on Curtain Call? It's in excellent shape atm, probably the best of all the parkway climbs.

ummmmm no.

i have a pair of reds in my tele boots. orange in my old mountaineering boots, another pair of orange in my running shoes, and some green ones in my hiking boots. i think maybe another set of greens in my snowboard boots as well.

i can't believe you guys are bitching about the price.

profile view + roll eyes = internet victory belayers doesn't use them either so we're okay with the hazard falling tools pose. i don't use umbilicals soloing either.

i climb leashless without umbilicals pretty much all the time. i also read alpinist. i hope i am okay.

i have honestly never given any thought to how i belay someone, other than 'feed slack when they're clipping' 'be ready to catch their whipper' etc etc. is it because i have never been belay certified?

I am from Canada and we think that tatoo is the definition of lame.

This.

Finishing Hammer Gully and Bow Falls are great moderates as well.

The Great Zombie Jeebus didn't help Tobin Sorenson in the NF of Alberta.

mountaineering. serious business. i'd be surprised if you get a response, your post makes you sound like a dickbag and someone who would be no fun in the mountains. and you're doing a walk up route, chill the fuck out.

i love la sportiva but they always seem to fit my feet well.

one thing to remember about OR gloves is that they have an "infinite" guarantee. i have sent back at least four pairs of alibis after destroying them and they ALWAYS send me a new pair.

Hard to tell from the photos/video but that doesn't look like any WI6 that I've ever seen. It looks like a pretty standard WI5, maybe an R or X if it has some collapse potential. Length of the column from the mushrooms at its base looks about 10-12m and appears from below to only be vertical for ~8m, it looks like it lies back from where he placed the screw.

M4+?

awesome dane!

I think I know who Semple is talking about.

Is that you Graham? Grant, but yeah, it's me!

i wondered if you guys made it up, too bad about the injury though. i was the parks guy who sent you there.

what is the point of this trip report? why bother posting at all if you're not going to talk about the route?

once you go black you never go back. nomics all the way. i climbed some sweet millwell ice today too, so you're not the only one thinking about the coming winter!