el jefe

a trip report about underage drinking? definitely a candidate for best TR of the month. hope it wins a prize.

pick colorado, not washington. much longer climbing season with more options. ice and mixed are more available and there are more rock climbing areas as well. cascades alpinism tends to be a long hike for a short climb and shitty weather to boot.

pull ups are vastly overrated for climbing. the sport emphasizes technique rather than sheer strength. being able to do more pull ups does not necessarily translate into climbing better or harder. go climbing as much as you can and try to improve your technique.

i think timberline sells a single ride ticket that would get you to the top of the magic mile for $15. much cheaper than the snowcat rental.

no more army, navy or air force, too. i say everyone just put up barbed wire and hunker down. then we can all live billcoe's vision of a paradise with no dang guvmint tellin' us what to do. that is all.

impressive that you have so many trips booked already. i'm going to suggest you pick utah for that october slot. october is pretty much the best month for rock climbing.

this assertion is not borne out by the facts: according to JosephH, roughly one million bolts per year are being placed in the US, so if we assume 10 bolts per route, then that means there are 100,000 new climbs every year as a result of the adoption of "sport tactics" -- and 100,000 new routes per year hardly amounts to a reduction in climbing access, but rather a considerable increase.

[quote=Good stuff djdan ! Messner was a badass of the century as JH noted above. He shares that distinction with some others as well. Everyone knows about the no O2 thing, but Messners free solo first ascent of what later turned out to be a very long and involved 5.9 in the Dolomites was nothing short of earthshaking. Of course, this in no way lessens the fact that Raindawg is still an ass..... there you have it, djdan, you've received the billcoe seal of approval -- one of the more prestigious honors here at cc.com.

djdan, i'm sorry to have to inform you that you definitely show signs of premature fuddy-duddy syndrome: you apparently have no sense of humor whatsoever, a fact which, taken together with such an advanced level of pomposity in one so young, points to a very poor long-term prognosis. you should seek help right away, although chances are good that it may already be too late for you.

mods, move this thread to the old fuddy-duddy forum please.

unlike you, suxcox, who undoubtedly reads everything before commenting? you haven't read it, either, so go fuck off, asshole.

rafe1234, you must be new around here. joseph is a member of the "greatest generation" of climbers. in his heyday everyone who climbed had bigger balls than they do today. something about purity of the aryan race having been polluted by interbreeding with mongrel sport climbers explains why things have gone downhill since the golden era of extreme toproping on the towering walls of illinois -- joseph will certainly chime in with a clarification of any details. in any event, joseph and his heroic comrades used to routinely take 100ft wingers off cliffs only 50ft tall, and as legend would have it, they eschewed the use of harness or swami belt and either merely clenched the rope between their teeth or cinched it around their prodigious nutsacks. must have been a crazy time for sure.

unlike rich simpson, neil has video of his ascent and can tell us who is belayer was, so there is more validity to his claim than to rich's.

why don't we collect some money to send raindawg down to cerre torre (one way ticket of course) so he can straighten out those guys? he can probably take pope with him as i'm sure he'll be able to fit his little sidekick in the overhead luggage rack.

i believe this is what is called a "mixed metaphor" -- if people are slinging feces, then that isn't "mud" you got covered in.

it has been 2 months since you originally posted this and no one has replied yet, so arbitrarily narrowing the field of potential respondents is obviously the logical next step. good luck in all your future endeavors.

vomit taster has returned.

if you are opposed to bolted routes why are you also upset that bolting is being regulated in certain areas?

i'm confident that the majority of people who leave draws on a route do so because they know how much it will irritate raindawg. as i understand it, sport climbing was developed for precisely this purpose and leaving draws is just another way in which the universe conspires to make him unhappy.

really, raindawg, this is pretty pathetic. seriously. you really need to find something in life that makes you happy. perhaps then you'll get past spending your time concocting these weird revenge fantasies and posting them on the internet. truly, dude, this stuff makes me sad.

ken nichols is a "folk hero" who has "more fans than you could ever imagine"? i didn't imagine that nutjob had any fans but it looks like he has at least one, so yes, that's certainly more than i could ever imagine!

if your logic works like this, then you probably also make turd sandwiches with wonder bread and feces when you run out of peanut butter. see? i'd say this is a new level of incomprehensible gibberish even for g-spotter.

pete's pile is visible from highway 35. the approach is pretty straightforward and the parking as well. if you are headed south on 35 from hood river it will be on your left (east) pretty much where the turn off to cooper spur resort is located.

it's interesting how the anti-sport climbing zealots such as raindawg keep trying to twist this dude's actions into some sort of ethical statement when it is clear from the video he is just some unprincipled scumbag who got caught stealing. whether it is okay to leave gear hanging on a route is a different question from whether it is okay to mess with it. raindawg decries the vigilantes who would put a beat down on the scruffy lout, but proudly boasts how he would collect the draws and hang them on a bolt well off the ground -- which act amounts to vigilantism, too. but of course, in the mind of the zealot, his version of vigilantism is always justified. this guy is a thief, plain and simple. if you believe the people who left the draws on the route "deserve" to have them taken, then you probably also believe a woman who wears a short skirt is "asking for it".

i agree that this was handled very well by ian et al. also, the video was posted on mountainproject by our own beloved billcoe and showed up on climbingnarc today, so this quickdraw thief is becoming well known to the climbing community at large.