mountainsloth

thanks for all the info guys. It will probably take us 3 hrs. we are going to go out the night before and camp as far in as we can get since its me and the lady. matt thanks for the recommendation of exfoliation dome, but we already did the west butt a few weeks ago. actually, we did not summit because it was severely hot and we ran out of water, but... we are looking for something new and more exciting.

Thanks for the clues guys. is the road bikeble?

Am thinking of taking the lady up there for some "safe sex" I have yet to visit this wonderful chunk of rock... What can I expect on the approach? How far am I walking on the road? Is the trail hard to follow? How long is it time wise?

Ingalls north peak, south ridge. 3-4 pitches, mostly 4th and low 5th. i pitch of 5.4 or 5.6 low angle crack. 3.5 miles in.

you came damn close to that crevasse on the way down around 4 mins in! YIKES! solid work!

nice idea for a traverse, looks beautiful! more pics?

great pics! looks like a fun route. Welcome back to the Cascades!

marvelous! You really hit a nice weather window! Congrats! The climbing looks supreme!

its sad. climate change sucks on so many levels. but i like to think of myself as an optimist... the approaches will eventually be easier, and the rock routes will be longer!

wow, beautiful work

so jealous. good times in the bugaboos!

yea, that is what it is listed in the book at least.

well shit... sounds like that just fell off my list... either way, way to get at it guys, glad you survived!

awesome trip! and a great idea.

no on either the rash or stance and dance... are they any good? just did blueberry buttress of exfoliation dome today for the first time... what a fantastic route!

from my experience in ozette, the beach rock is crumbly shit... it might be different a bit north

yea, maybe not as classic, but i liked the middle pitches with the small corner and the short but sweet curving flake. glad to motivate!

Just wanted to give a shout out to this climb, 6 pitches 5.10a. If you like Silent Running and Total soul, go back for Revolver. the book says to traverse from the 2nd bolt after the first set of anchors of silent running, but i found the direct start just as easy although a little dirty. I found 3 gear placements and stretched the rope till its end to reach the anchors. *Bring a 3/8 and maybe a 1/2 wrench! many of the new bolts are loose!* all in all, a great route and deserves the same props as the neighboring climbs. The last pitch is the only 5.10 pitch and has two tricky slab moves. Darrington rules!

excellent use of time!

know your range at a crag and climb under it in the alpine. Ratings are guidelines not set in stone.

we seem to have shared the eastside without knowing it. nice job!looks like a great route. how steep was the headwall?

flowers picked just for you! to be honest, I have no idea.

Trip: Mt. Baker - Boulder Glacier Date: 7/19/2009 Trip Report: Sweet overnight trip to the less traveled side of Baker. We saw two parties leaving on Saturday and no one else on the East side for the rest of the trip. We followed boulder ridge for most of the way considering what the rest of the glacier looked like. The route finding is stimulating and the crevasse bridges are pretty close to melted out. We ended up weaving long zig-zags around many of the crevasses in order to make the route work. It would be a tricky ascent for anyone thinking of it later in the summer. On the summit we were greeted by the hordes conga-lining it up the Easton and hastily retreated to our own side of the mountain. I cannot say enough about the greatness of this route. The hike in through old growth hemlock, exciting route finding, steepness, exposure, gorgeous views of Shuksan and the entire North Cascade range, and not another soul on the route on a perfect summer weekend! Astounding! I guess there is safety in numbers on the Easton, and no one wants 8000 vert. It just goes to show you there is a slice of cascade wonderment for all with a little effort, even on the most popular peaks. Heavily crevassed lower section of the Boulder glacier Sunrise Shuksan sunrise Working up the ridge Summit Crater. Can you see the conga-line up the Easton? This kind of says it all Camp flowered ridge to ice-capped summit and back Gear Notes: standard glacier gear Approach Notes: Boulder ridge trail, through the bog of eternal stench, up the class 3 cliff, follow the ridge, dodge the crevasses

I stared at that face for days from boston basin hoping to one day give one of the many routes up it a try. nice work on the solo. how bad was the rock?

one of my favorite moderate alpine climbs to date. Just a perfect setting with a wide variety of climbing and no one around. way to get it guys!