mountainsloth

kyle_flick - we may have started up the Burg/Stan, but definitely followed the Beckey route, traversing on knobby slab, 2 pitches of gully, snafflehound ledge, etc. Either way it was a fantastic route, especially the pitch off of snafflehound ledge.

Ade, were you the one going to do N ridge of stuart?

fantastic photos! nice work!... or nice camera... or both!

Trip: Enchantment lakes - Colchuck, Prussik, Dragontail & E. Dragontail Date: 6/29/2009 Trip Report: My buddy Salz and I have been having enchanted dreams for a while now. Having yet to venture out in this neck of the mountains we only thought it was proper to spend a week wandering these peaks. We had a lofty goal of pretty much sending half a dozen of the moderate classic rock routes out there, but as usual, our eyes were bigger than our physical stamina could dish out. Either way, we sent some great climbs on our list, and enjoyed the splendor that is the Enchantments. Day 1 Saturday: hike in to colchuck lake with nearly 70lb packs, and wave goodbye to the masses descending. Day 2: get our feet wet (literally) with a slog up the colchuck glacier to scope out serpentine and summit colchuck via the east ridge route. Salz descending Day 3: wake up at 5 am to snow covering dragontail and all around the lake... bummer. It did not look like the weather was going to clear anytime soon, and considering dragontail was our only objective in the colchuck lake vicinity, we opted to pack up and move camp over asgard pass to set up for prussik. We were engulfed in clouds until we reached inspiration lake. The sun came out to bless our camp site on the ridge between perfection lake and lake viviane. Day 4: The Beckey route on the South face of Prussik. What a gem! We opted for the 5.8 crack start avoiding the unprotectable chimney. Salz working the first pitch Every pitch had something fun and interesting, all on some of the most immaculate alpine granite these hands have caressed. Summit shots Day 5: We awoke to a family of goats. The one I named Sagwa looked thirsty so I pissed in an empty bowl of the granite slabs we were camping on and the sweet old nag slurped it up! Yummy! The rest of the day involved moving camp... again... down to Colchuck lake to set up for another stab at Serpentine. rainbow above little annapurna Near the pass we stopped for a rest, feeling the burden of our heavy packs. To brighten our spirits we decided to add a sweet little scramble to the day summitting what we later figured out to be East Dragontail peak. E. Dragontail is the peak to the left and behind the center spire(Witches Tower). Colchuck lake, mosquito-free two days prior greeted us with an army of hungry vampires... not exactly the welcome I had hoped for. Having set our sites, again on the serpentine arete, we packed for the climb and crawled into the tent. Day 6: After a long night of very strong wind and rain, we woke up at 5 am with little change in the conditions. With our bodies screaming for a rest day, we let the lousy climbing weather lull us back to sleep. We awoke hours later to low clouds, some rain, and still more wind. Thankful for not dragging ourselves out of bed, we planned for a day of doing nothing, but by noon the weather started to improve. By 2 it was sunny and we were restless. Knowing a long route was out of the question I recommended a little Colchuck lake cragging. Someone on this site did some hard work on a fun 2 pitch 5.7ish climb just west of the talus field at the base of the colchuck glacier. I forget who it was, but nice work, and thanks, it was the perfect answer to an antsy rest day. Salz rapping the route Day 7: We woke up to perfect blue skies at 5 am. Thank you weather Gods! Serpentine went off without a hitch. We climbed along side a fine group of three from Seattle, and enjoyed fun climbing in perfect weather. Third time is the charm I guess! The 2 5.8 pitches were fantastic and certainly the highlights of the route. Salz leading the first 5.8 pitch Exposure! starting the long 4th class section summit shot! Day 8: An uneventful hike back out as we greeted about 40 people coming up the trail on another beautiful day in the Enchantments. Gear Notes: nuts, doubles to 2 and 1 #3 two very heavy packs Chiropractor and Massage for after the trip Approach Notes: Colchuck lake trail

I love Darrington slabs

great parenting

i climbed the west ridge with heavy duty backpacking boots... its no big deal, i would recommend them. if you really don't want boots i recommend climbing the 4th class face to the left of the gully. its dirty and a little loose, but super quick for ascent and descent.

like the metallica song, it kicks ass!

i love that route! nice work!

a God amongst men

i think i creamed my pants! sweet looking porn... and nice camera work.

http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/road-closures.shtml#rdfiftysix road 56, mile post 12.45 taylor river bridge

slab is the shit! and sometimes makes me want to shit.... my pants.

is it necessary? you did say it was near a crack, and if i am thinking of the same crack you are, it seems pretty continuous and quite protectable the whole way up. I have not been on the route, but from below that is what it looks like. if so, just remove it.

is that a pic of endless bliss? exit 38 best climb? i would have to agree... but i do also like the plank on the neverland wall. keep me posted on your climbing with Fred, i would be more than happy to be a 3rd and meet Mr. Beckey.

kick ass guys, thanks for putting in all the hard work. as soon as i get out of school and have summers off again I will lend a hand with all of this. it seems every year this has to be done. you are all good simians... i mean Samaritans to this climbing community

Rock fall happens everywhere, even on the most well traveled crags like LTW at Index. A couple weeks ago I had a peach size rock hit me square on the head from above. It was enough to force my head forward in a fairly violent way. Thank sweet jesus I had my helmet. I may not have been brain dead after, but certainly a painful head injury. I outgrew the feeling of being "Free" without a helmet sometime after high school... it just doesn't make sense anymore. Its like a seat belt, I feel uncomfortable without one. Call me a pussy all you like!

there are no large, trad, multipitch climbs in north bend. The closest thing you will get is maybe some alpine climbing farther into the alpine lakes.

kick ass, thanks guys!

i have had some done from the rubber room and Dave's and they both did a good job for me. I have a pair of mythos i have resoled 3 times, the last two from Dave and they are still kicking some rock. Whatever, everyone has their preference!

Dave's in Fremont, Seattle is the shit. I have had a few pairs done there, reliable 1 week turn around, competitive prices and a genuinely nice and knowledgeable guy. http://www.davepagecobbler.com/ keep it local Seattlites!

great climb guys! beautiful route!

alpine equalizers are a very quick way of placing gear, and equalizing them into a single point. everyone should know how to properly equalize their own anchors with a cord, but alpine equalizers are super easy and quick to use.

sweet! Thanks for the update. Exfoliation Dome looks like a go! Silent Running is a super fun route, one of my favs on 3 o'clock.

I have Monday off, what did you have in mind?