mountainsloth

good point pope

i would recommend staying away from the large glaciers. Stick to low-land peaks, enchantments, and maybe some NE stuff in the Pasayten wilderness. Check out some of the TRs of recent from Tvash in the area. Cool stuff!

i assume it has. it takes 3-5 days in the summer with forest roads open to the trailhead. I would guestimate a week or more in the winter and you would probably be doing it on skis.

also, don't be dumb, make sure you know your route up and down very well and bring a GPS, map and compass. Listen to your gut, don't press on if the weather is getting too "wicked" obviously, crampons are a must above tree line. snowshoes might help down low depending on recent storms. plastic boots might be necessary depending on temps but i never used them. The nice thing about doing washington is that its a fricking weather station! get your forecasts straight and go when weather looks manageable.

Since you mentioned EMS and Mt Washington in the Winter, I am assuming you are talking NH Mt Washington. I grew up in NH and did Washington a few times in the winter. The banana is right though, it depends on the weather. I have been close to the summit with a single layer on in Feb. Here is what I would wear and bring on a typical winter trip up Washington but keep in mind, other layer systems also work, this is just what i use: -heavy weight base layer, top and bottom. -Winter hiking socks - thickness depends on boot warmth and fit - make sure the socks don't constrict the feet. -light weight fleece top -warm snow/ski pants(side zips for ventilation are a must) -down jacket -winter shell or parka with a hood -winter hat -light weight ski gloves -heavy duty mitts -large and thick gaiters to keep out the snow -ski goggles and neck/face warmer in case the wind gets nasty (as it so often does up there) how i use them: -puffy goes on for breaks to stay warm. -shell should be... well... your shell or outer layer. -snow pants side zips should be used regularly to regulate body temps. ** most important thing to keep in mind when hiking/climbing in the extreme cold... regulate your body temp! do your best not to sweat at all. sweating will just make you freeze from the inside of all your layers, rendering them useless! take your time and adjust your layers as needed.**

yikes! glad they are ok. They are right about simulclimbing. i don't even think about simulclimbing on anything but well traveled, easy routes and even then i know i am taking a chance. i came very close to sending large chunks of granite down on my partner simuling while off route on serpentine arete. i was petrified!

hells highway looks wicked! late season glaciers are sketch, way to send it.

don't mess with glaciers at this time of year... stick to the rock. enchantments are hard to beat. They will certainly put Utah to shame

no worries, i know whats good for me. Thanks for allowing me to live vicariously through you.

easy to get lost on that route. we followed the rule of "stay on the ridge" after the crux pitches. we still got off route and i believe finished the route via the last pitch or two of backbone. that mountain is certainly an adventure! plus... epics make you a better climber... provided you live through them!

how about glacier peak? maybe not technical but what an adventure!

tvash, your trip reports are going to make me quit grad school!

reminds me of the book by Bruce Barcott The Measure of a Mountain: Beauty and Terror on Mount Rainier sounds like a great summer

ditto Tyson

sweet man! that is the first mountaineering trip I went on out here. It is definitely long, but what a wild and amazing place. I hope to one day go back again and climb it from the north.

makes you think twice about the backcountry... and spending the cash for a beacon. thanks for sharing tazz.

seriously... maybe i will try emailing him again.

i have tried many times, but they never reply to my emails! do they not want my money!? if you are out there reading this, i would like a copy of rattle and slime please!

pilchuck, would you like to label some more of the map to give us losers a better understanding of this complex wall? i have been itching for some of that granite for a bit now.

i am tired just from reading it... rock star!!

your TRs are always a joy to read. way to bring the youth into the climbing realm and make it a scientific/research journey as well. solid work!

different stokes for different folks... i would definitely think it was weird seeing all this at Lil Si, but I would have kept my mouth shut and helped out in an emergency. climbing is an activity that is deeply rooted in freedom. I have my opinions of what climbing in good style is, but that doesn't mean everyone else should follow my beliefs, especially climbing.

Olympics are so cool. who cares if the rock is crap right. Plus as you mentioned, forest treats! Great photos!

thanks matt, i appreciate your work. The nice old lady at the pizza place in town speaks highly of you as well!

5.2 from roosevelt to kaleetan. one loose section. i assume the rest is mostly scrambling and one long day!