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Everything posted by dorianlee
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Recommendations for a camera for climbing
dorianlee replied to BootsandPants's topic in Climber's Board
P&s cameras are awesome for how light and compact they are, but they lack the super wide angle lens capability of dslrs. Dramatic mountain scenery really lends itself to wide angle. That said, the s100 has the widest (24mm) of any of the top end p & s cameras out now. If the Canon G1x had a wider lens, I'd say it was the perfect blend between dslr and p&s. -
Wow. Awesome stuff.. Mind if I ask what camera model you're using?
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The MH tent looks pretty sweet. It's part of the new Ueli Steck line.. Definitely competition to the firstlight.
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Thoroughly enjoyed. He is quite impressive. Would love to see how he approaches the same moves years from now when he has full reach.
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Medical and Utility Pharmaceutics Mountaineering
dorianlee replied to Marmot Prince's topic in Climber's Board
It was Pervitin, pharmaceutical grade methamphetamine, mass produced during WWII for servicemen. "The Pervitin I was carrying gave me confidence; I felt I could rely on it in case of emergency. Just 300 feet below the Fore-Summit I set foot on the above- mentioned declivity." "Assessing all these difficulties I remembered the Pervitin and took two tablets. I should need every ounce of energy and will-power I could muster. I knew that the drug would remain effective for only six to seven hours and that I must reach some resting place by that time. " "The counter-gradient to the Silver Saddle seemed endless. I now resorted once more to Pervitin. Whatever reserves of energy were left must now be mobilized, otherwise I should be finished" Excerpts from "Nanga Parbat" -
Medical and Utility Pharmaceutics Mountaineering
dorianlee replied to Marmot Prince's topic in Climber's Board
Hermann Buhls legendary summit of nanga parbat was meth powered. -
Medical and Utility Pharmaceutics Mountaineering
dorianlee replied to Marmot Prince's topic in Climber's Board
Smoking crystal meth brings the grade down around 100 fold. -
One time I was boarding on bachelor way off trail in lonely nw territory, came round a corner to a full fledge female A frame complete with dirt star starring at me from hardly 5 feet away, pissing all over the snow. Odd position, guess she was too sore to squat..
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[TR] Something cool and long at Wolf Rock 1/7/2012
dorianlee replied to 111's topic in Oregon Cascades
Killer... So uh, where be that rumored cave system? I know of one system on santiam right off the highway in between the junctions, but it's fairly tame. Used to be signed many a year ago, but since gone incognito and the parking area blocked. -
The s100 is a pretty badass camera spec wise. Compared to the s95 it has a wider angle lens, longer zoom, faster max shutter speed, higher quality video, faster processor, and a new advanced sensor. That said, it was probably rushed to market and the early models have a lens problem, "decentered lens" some say. I'd wait until the issues are resolved, then it'll be clear champion of all compacts.
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Best beware ivan, thoughtbubbles is nothin but a hairy free love swingin drum totin smelly tree fornicator. But he sure can clamber up some rock!
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Golden eagle mechanic gloves are super dope, super cheap. Not very waterproof but so worth $11.
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Thanks for the input all. Lots of good points and frosty thoughts to ponder.
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Definitely don't want to rely on it being a warm year, but I will be there later in the season. The MH phantom is one model I've considered.
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I'm playing with the idea of a denali climb next June, and I'm looking for some thoughts on a sleeping bag/ parka situation. Would it be reasonable to use a 0 degree down bag in conjunction with wearing the mighty MH absolute zero parka at night? I've heard this setup is doable, just curious what others who have been up there think.
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Thats too bad.. of the gore lineup I figured paclite would be the more breathable considering it's a single layer opposed to the 3 layer proshell. Anyone have input whether the proshell is actually any more breathable? The new "active shell" is getting lots of attention as of lately. Also, brands are coming our with ever more of their own technologies such as mountain hardwear's dry Q, and I'm curious as to how they stack up.
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Beautiful.. Love the frosty snowline photos. Thanks!
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I think the author should read up on newer literature. Most of the research used is either from the 90's or early 2000. There is a lot of recent research done in the past 2 years, which proves hydration, diet and stress as leading causes of muscle cramping. Muscle weakness plays also huge role as well. No silver bullet for an answer, but there is an scientific evidence contradicting the article. I'd really like to see some of these studies. From what I can find online the hydration, electrolyte hypothesis hasn't been supported at all. In experiments, hypodrated and dehydrated muscles cramped just as readily when electrically induced. What has been demonstrated is that pickle juice, most likely the vinegar, actually works, pretty fascinating. I get hit by cramps harder than most, and the only real solution I've found is climbing a lot and maintaining a high level of fitness. I've experimented with dosing and mega-dosing with all the electrolytes and they do seem to help a bit, but for climbs to come, I think I'm gonna pack some vinegar.. http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/06/09/phys-ed-can-pickle-juice-stop-muscle-cramps/
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[TR] Summer 2011: A photo TR - All over 9/23/2011
dorianlee replied to dorianlee's topic in Oregon Cascades
Didn't know about the contest til it was too late.. Too busy with unemployment and the pure pursuit of jollification! Maybe next time. -
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Trip: Summer 2011: A photo TR - All over Date: 9/23/2011 Trip Report: With classes beginning next week, climbing season is effectively over for me. Tragic, but the last few months were nothing short of absolutely glorious. I took a few photos in the process, Enjoy! Gearing up for a quick jaunt up Hood IMG_1781 Sunburst & Skier Gabe IMG_1812 Windy day at Smith IMG_1877 - Version 2 Squaw rock scramble style IMG_1934 Brave lizard IMG_1913 Sunset scrub IMG_1926 Andrea spanking the super slab IMG_2023 Chel on first kiss, Gabe belaying IMG_2279 Some smith hippie biker chick, Vitamin c IMG_2685 Alpine power! IMG_2054 Into the North Cascades, searching for Mt. Gardner. IMG_2094 With no map or route description, we missed. Instead we climbed this adjacent peak. There we found a rusted can summit register with three super old entries. Beckey didn't climb it. IMG_2091 On top of SEWS Pan Hanging out with Ellinor IMG_2218 Three Fingered Jack IMG_2634 Getting high on Broken top IMG_2666 On top of the big one IMG_2922 Summit crater sunrise IMG_2926 Climbers and crevasses IMG_2935 Tracey and little Tahoma IMG_2940 En route to marmot pass in the Olympics IMG_3178 On the summit of Boulder Ridge, about to be swallowed by fog IMG_3272 Parting shot: olympic peaks disappearing into the mist IMG_3285
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[TR] Wallowa / Eagle Cap Wilderness - Various / Several 8/1/2011
dorianlee replied to Holk's topic in Oregon Cascades
Thats how it's done in the Wallowas! Thanks for sharing the report and mad photo art. -
Let me know if you might be interested! I'm flexible on dates as I have the entire month free after the 4th. Dorian
