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tvashtarkatena

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Everything posted by tvashtarkatena

  1. The quickest way to write a TR is to type it in Word or something, cut, paste, submit, and go out climbing again. A more laborious data entry process would reduce interest in posting TRs, I would think. A simpler, blank slate format also allows for more creativity. As for completeness of beta: PM the TR's author if you want to know more about their experience.
  2. Post or PM me the photos you're talking about and I'll see if I can provide a useful comment.
  3. No, but I found an old pair of ski poles from the '70s halfway up the mountain. Weird karma.
  4. Trip: Dumbell Mountain (Glacier Peak Wilderness - from the west Date: 6/26/2007 Trip Report: Greg Moo and I decided to take advantage of the recent 2 day stint of beautiful weather and nab a peak I’d halfheartedly attempted last October from it’s precipitous east face. It turned out to be a great alpine jaunt, particularly this time of year, when there is still continuous snow from Phelps Creek basin to just below the summit. We ascended to the notch SW of the main summit, then downclimbed steep snow to the permanent snowpatch on the mountain’s north side, then up the snowpatch to an easy summit scramble. We descended by crossing the notch immediately south of the summit, then downclimbed 4th class rock to the snowy basin below on its south side (recommended as the more straightforward route either way). Glacier Lilies, Spider Meadow Western Anemones, upper Phelps basin The peak at dawn Greg downclimbing from the notch to the permanent snowpatch on the north side of the peak Ascending the wind scoop on the permanent snowpatch Glacier Peak on the horizon from just below the summit rock Summit Cheese. Bonanza in the background ‘Speedboat’ avalanche remnant, from the summit Crossing upper Phelps Creek after the climb Gear Notes: Axe, poons, 75' 7mm rope (not used). Approach Notes: Well consolidated snow on the trail to Spider Meadow. Easy walking. Hike to end of Phelps Creek basin, pick a snow ramp, and ascend.
  5. At a turn out a couple of hundred yards from the Colchuk TH, to be specific. REI carbon poles. PM if found, thanks.
  6. "Americans love a winner. . . . . .and will not tolerate a loser. Americans play to win all the time. I wouldn't give a hoot in hell for a man who lost and laughed. That's why Americans have never lost and will never lose a war. . ."
  7. Replying a young pregnant girl who has just professed her love for him: "Love is a dunghill, Betty, and I am but a cock that climbs upon it to crow."
  8. Pics, etc: In the Northwest, the best thing about June is July. While the west side forecast vacillates, there is always the Icicle and its attendant summits, however. RobMcDan suggested that we row out of the doldrums via Sherpa’s North Ridge, so a bushwhacking we went. We did the climb in 8 pitches (including an initial simul pitch). There are several 5.8 moves sprinkled along what is a pretty fun mid fifth route. Rock is generally solid granite and the pro good, with the odd loose block, snow patch, and black lichen for fun. The trip as a whole includes a little bit of everything: a true Cascade experience. Argonaut and Sherpa from the Stuart Lake Trail The bush really isn’t that bad. The mosquitoes, however…. Rob in deep concentration on the approach. The route from near our bivvy at 5600': Up the couloir right of the summit (to bypass the less aesthetic lower N ridge and get right to the good stuff), up the right skyline (the good stuff), down and across the opposite side, then down the couloir left of the summit On top of the crux pitches From the ‘summit’: Stuart in backround. The true summit of Sherpa. 5.10c anyone? The descent involves a single rope rap to a gulley on the SW face, then downclimbing the gulley to an obvious sandy bench, then traversing E to the notch above the descent couloir at 8000’. This couloir will probably contain continuous snow until mid July or so. The guidebook recommends traversing at 7800’ all the way to the Argonaut/Sherpa col. Fuck that. Crotch shot: the descent couloir. Oxides on granite: Sherpa’s NE basin. You’ll curse yourself on the bushwhack in, then thank yourself on the bushwhack out. It’s a weird trip in that sense. Early July at the latest is recommended for this climb if the couloir routes are to be taken advantage of.
  9. Unicorns are blue staters and jackalopes are red staters.
  10. Perhaps we should agree on an official starting time next time and have at least 2 people agree to show up then. Plan the drink. Drink the plan.
  11. That's just fucking brilliant! I've NEVER heard that argument before! You're so original! Not original, perhaps. Just right on the money.
  12. In vitro fertilization isn't free there's a hefty fuckin' fee....
  13. THIS THREAD HAS SUFFERED A JAYB52 STRIKE.
  14. Let me me perfectly clear: Most embryos raised for in vitro fertilization are not implanted into humans: they are destroyed in the lab. It's a numbers game; you have to have plenty of back ups. Just like with the rest of mother nature. The pro stem cell crowd is merely arguing that these embryos, which will be destroyed anyway, not go entirely to waste. The Christian Right, of course, will have none of that.
  15. WWWOOON inchaaaaanted eve ninggggggg....
  16. tvashtarkatena

    Buzz

    The land of the Kama Sutra has banned sex toys? You've got to wonder how...they're...smuggled in.
  17. These embryos are raised for in vitro fertilization; which the Christian Right doesn't seem to have any problem with. Only a few are selected for actual use, the rest are destroyed. Again, the Christian Right doesn't seem to have a problem with this. But use the leftover embryos for stem cell harvesting? No way.
  18. That's weird, cuz the only signs of previous human contact we encountered were midway up the first pitch: three stuck cams and a bail off sling magic markered with "Dirty Little Lying Bitch 2002" on it.
  19. A motorcycle saved my sanity, but they're more useful for the HOV lane on 520 than for 90.
  20. Cool. I just downloaded the Pine Barrens Frog ringtone I just got the Coral Sea Remora, but the sound kind of sucks.
  21. ...plus they were giving an test I hadn't studied for...
  22. After being charged by a porcupine, I can tell you from first hand experience that standing and fighting is not always the best strategy.
  23. whale oil beef fecked
  24. I showed up around 7:30 to a sea of hipsters but no familiar faces. Wah.
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