jared_j

Looking at pictures of Lemah, it looks like a fun little traverse could be done over the five peaklets. The Summitpost page on Lemah asserts the traverse has been done but I haven't turned up any reports. Anyone wasted their time on this before? I wanna know if the parts in between the peaks are scrambly or stout.

I just moved back to Seattle after a 5-year stint on the east coast where I wasn't doing much climbing. As luck would have it, I'm living in Magnolia about half a mile from Vertical World, and seeking partners to lead and TR there. I'd like to find someone who wants to climb 6-8am-ish or after 8pm weekdays.

I'm road-tripping from the east coast to Seattle mid-June, with scheduled stops in CO and WY for some moderate snow climbing and rock scrambling (I'll be solo). I've seen Mt. Borah done as a fall early-season ice climb and generally it gets described as such. With the fat snowpack this year, on paper, sounds like it could be a fun moderate snow scramble. I don't see a lot of TRs for this area in general, and none for this mountain in early season. Is there a good reason? Any other moderate Sawtooth scrambles worth thinking about? This area is just out-of-the-way enough that I'd like to sample its worthwhile offerings while driving through as I don't see myself heading back that way willfully in the near future. Since I'm solo none of the finer alpine rock routes are on the table.

Damn. Thanks for sharing, and condolences to all touched by his loss.

Ditto on Gaia. Your biggest hazard is running out of juice. There are many threads out there on how to optimize the settings on your phone to preserve battery life. I have an iphone and don't know anything about yours; with the apple device you can leave on the gps and turn off just about everything else and get dramatically longer battery life than you would on a typical day (unless you use the tracking cookie crumb thing). I found Gaia easy to learn how to use, and am pretty low tech.

I've used both of these shoes, and feel they are pretty similar in terms of performance when sized for comfort (flat toes). The Mythos feels like it is a hair softer than the Nago. This makes it edge a little more poorly, but smear better (feels a lot better to me). The Nago has a slightly more asymmetric design for pushing power to the big toe - Mythos is more symmetric. In theory this makes the Nago better for standing on small edges; this may be true if sized tightly, but this difference didn't seem to be material to me when sized for comfort. The Mythos stretches so much that it can be challenging to get the right size the first time.

The concepts will be very familiar if you've read up on training in other endurance contexts like running or cycling. I'd go so far say to say this book is essentially Joe Friel's "Cyclists Training Bible" but for climbers (though this is a little bit less cumbersome than that text). I was surprised by Twight's mea culpa about high intensity circuit training. He basically says that he was unable to experience year over year gains on such plans, and has reverted back to a plan that favors volume. Interesting given that this style of training is very much in vogue. I recall an earlier thread discussing shorter high intensity circuit style plans (a la Mountain Athlete), and John Frieh made the comment that short workouts aren't sport specific enough to prepare you for long moderate days in the mountains (though they are good for all-around conditioning). This book rhymes with that view.

I was referring to your post about how things aren't totally random, that there's a reason why things happen. I read this (and still do) as an at-best optimistic assessment of the activity of climbing and/or soloing. Taking the view that there isn't randomness/Knightian uncertainty in the system when you're climbing leads to a dangerous paradigm (in my opinion). It reads like something a person who feels invincible would say. So I put those words in your mouth in my head, perhaps unfairly. BTW I'm coming from the opposite end of what you think. I took a lead fall on an ice climb in the Ruth a few years back, got away super lucky with only a tib/fib fracture; the whole thing felt slow-mo enough that I thought I was gonna buy the farm (pitched off after a short traverse, fell over ledge into unknown terrain that was fortunately overhanging so I didn't splatter on a bunch of rocks). So I empathize with your plight (see my post much earlier in the thread).

This might be the most foolhardy example of "sh** climbers in their early 20s say" I've ever read. Stay safe out there!

The longer you climb and engage with a climbing community, the more accidents you'll hear about. If awareness of accidents around you changes how you make decisions as a climber, that's probably a good thing. What you call being "unnecessarily fearful in certain situations" could be "more aware of possible consequences that I didn't really consider before". I'm assuming that you're using a litle linguistic flourish here and not experiencing a panic attack on lead. A more experienced climber than I once told me that hearing about accidents is "positive feedback". I asked if that's positive feedback, then what's negative feedback? His reply: "Taking risks which you aren't accurately assessing or weighing, and repeatedly getting away with it."

Black Diamond made a tent for awhile that had the Firstlight Fabric, but the design of the Ahwanee - it was called the Lighthouse. The footprint is a little bigger in both dimensions than the Firstlight, and it has a side door and a third pole across the top. I am not a big fan of the side door and big pole, but it is only slightly heavier than the Firstlight and I value the extra floor space. As long as you're not getting battered by winds along the broad side of the tent (which could catch the awning), you should be good. I see these for sale on eBay and craigslist from time to time (that's how I got mine). It looks like the party of 3 on the Huntington trip report in the AK forum used one for their trio (very cozy, no doubt).

Wow! What tool is that strapped to the Arcteryx pack (in the shot of the packs in the plane)? It looks like an ice axe without any sort of head.

Whenever I've wanted a glove for climbing that was heavier than a liner or an OR Vert, I've opted for something with a gauntlet because that was all l had. Seems like undercuff style gloves are popular for skiing (or at least on teton gravity). I always found the gauntlet fussy, and now in the market again for a warmer glove and thinking of something undercuff styled. Primary use would be general climbing use in colder temps, moderate alpine stuff. Am I missing something? Doesn't seem like most gloves marketed to climbers are designed this way .

Crosstraining is the jam.

Haters gonna hate.

I saw this hand specialist at Virginia Mason in Seattle one time when I had an A3 pulley issue. I can't remember if she climbed but her kids did and she was knowledgeable about climbing as it related to medical stuff.

In thinking about the appropriate tool for stuff like Liberty Ridge or N Ridge of Baker, I came across this accessory for Grivel axes (was thinking about a pair of Air Tech Evos). Anyone have experience with this? I can't tell if it would stay 'up' out of the way near the head of the axe easily or be a PITA. It'd be nice to have the option of the trigger from time to time and still have something easy to plunge. I know horses for courses and wouldn't try to use such a tool to climb hard steep stuff. Also wondering if anyone knows if there's a hacky way of getting such a thing to work on BD Venoms.

Hey gear hoarders, anyone have a BD Lighthouse in their closet? It's the bigger brother to the Firstlight with a door on the side, but same thinner fabric. The floor dimensions are based on the Bibler Eldorado (as opposed to the Firstlight which is based on the I-Tent). I think they stopped making these a couple of years ago, they don't seem to be on sale any more. If you've got one that isn't beat to hell that you'd be willing to sell, email me at janowiak dot jared at gmail dot com.

Met my wife on I Saw U's skeezier cousin, Craigslist Missed Connections (Z-Man, I think I told you that story one time). Photos like this make me miss living out there. I hope you guys know how good you've got it!

For sale is a Medium Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody in "Green Bean". This was purchased in late 2007, and worn periodically winter climbing through early 2009. To be honest, this jacket is too warm for my liking above 25F. It is in good shape. Shows some signs of wear from pack hipbelts / shoulder straps. There's a couple of holes on the end of the right sleeve. Comes from a home where cats exist. Not worn around town too much, mostly because of the Darth Vader hood. Asking $125 shipped via Paypal (unless you live in the Washington DC metro area). pic 1 pic 2 pic 3 pic 4

I always thought that Via Ferrata guy was the actor who played "Janitor" on the show "Scrubs" [img:center]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4b/Janitor-scrubs.jpg/250px-Janitor-scrubs.jpg[/img]

Updated.

I'm living on the east coast now, and unfortunately far from the life of a Cascade Climber. Looking to clear out space on the bookshelves, and offering up the stuff below. Prices below include shipping via USPS Media Mail. I accept payment via Paypal only. PM with email address please. Tieton River Rocks (Ford & Yoder 2004) Pending Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains 2nd ed (1994) - $15 Exit 32 Rock Climbing Guide (Garth Bruce ) Pending Exit 38 Rock Climbing Guide 2nd Ed (Garth Bruce) Pending The Climbers Guide to Squamish (Kevin McLane 2005) Sold Washington Ice A Climbing Guide (Jason Martin and Alex Krawarik 2003) - $12 Rock Climbing Washington (Jeff Smoot – Falcon Guide) - $13 Supertopo Alaska Climbing – Joe Puryear RIP - $13 Pending Waterfall Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies (Jo Jo 2003) SOLD Sky Valley Rock (Cramer 2000) Pending Backcountry Skiing Skills for Ski Touring and Ski Mountaineering (Martin Volken, Scott Schell, and Margaret Wheeler 2007) Sold Climbing in North America (Chris Jones 1997) Sold 75 Scrambles in Washington (Peggy Goldman) - $10 Hiking Washington’s Alpine Lakes Wilderness (Jeff Smoot) - $10 AAJ 2006 (Vol 48) AAJ 2007 (Vol 49) AAJ 2008 (Vol 50) Extreme Alpinism (Mark Twight 2006) - $15 Pending Speed Climbing How to Climb Faster and Better (Hans Florine and Bill Wright 2nd ed, 2005) - $12 The White Spider The Classic Account of the Ascent of the Eiger (Heinrich Harrer, 1998) Sold Eiger Dreams (Krakauer 1997) - $10

Cat pee can neutralize any effects of the spilt beer, especially on the woven goods

It would be helpful to understand what is already in your quiver of shelter options, in addition to the conditions you lay out, to make a recommendation. As MattP is getting at, there's good "higher elevation / higher wind exposure" options and "lower elevation / lower wind exposure" options. For lower elevation and lower wind exposure, the Henry Shires Tarptent options strike a good balance across the conditions laid out.