jared_j

Holy sh*t you got hit by lightning? That's a major notch in the 'mountain hardman' category. Great pics! It'd be fun to get out on another climb with ya.

bump - can I single rope rap down the N Face without leaving gear (besides webbing/rings) and without tricky downclimbing? Thanks!

Thanks for answering the questions about water availability. Can the route be rapped with a single rope without leaving gear (besides webbing, rap rings)? Guidebooks suggest doubles, but we'd like to go with just one.

The Cold Cold World Valdez is not quite as light as the MEC pack, but is quite bomber, has very comfortable shoulder straps, and a nice slim profile. I use mine all the friggin' time. I like the concept of the Cilogear packs, but in practice I did not prefer their strap setup.

Very sobering having two accidents take place on the route after recently getting on it. Condolences to her loved ones.

Yep. Just thought I'd see if there's one used floating around 65cm-ish in length. If you've got one and are willing to sell (and it isn't beat to hell), let me know what you want for it.

The Suunto X-Lander is issued to some enlisted military folk. It is, in my opinion, way more durable than the Vector. It has got a very good scratch-resistant crystal face. If you poke around on craigslist, you can find one. Searching "Suunto X-Lander craigslist.org", I found a guy in North Dakota to sell me a slightly used one for less scratch than a new Vector. YMMV

I know, I know, another Serpentine Arete trip report. I had been itching to do this route for awhile as a barometer for my ability / readiness to jump on some bigger routes. Wayne1112 was parter-less for the weekend, and agreed to get out with me. The weather was great, we didn't hit any snags, and overall it was a great day in the mountains. We left the already crowded Stuart Lakes / Mountaineer Creek parking lot around 5:15am, making quick time up the trail to Colchuck Lake and up into the basin below Dragontail. By the time we made our way up alongside the very melted out Colchuck glacier, we discovered there were 3 parties ahead of us on Serpentine, and 3 parties were headed up Backbone. Cool Views of melted out Colchuck Glacier and Colchuck Peak: While eating and drinking getting ready to climb, it was cool to ponder the more serious routes over on the slabs west: Wayne and I agreed that it'd be optimal to try and pass the parties as quickly as possible. It was also friggin' cold in the shade, and neither of us wanted to hang around - my hands were numb just from touching the rock scrambling up! There is solid 4th class terrain slightly left of the beginning of the route we were able to quickly scramble to overtake the first two belaying parties. From there, Wayne led a pitch up to the base of the good pitches. Here we met another party. It appeared the party's leader on the pitch, Lisa, was taking a line up a dihedral on the left. There was a sweet handcrack in a corner that appeared open; I started up it. Lisa merged over to it, and so I hung out off of a piece. She was very unnerved by our attempt to pass her, and wasn't shy about letting us know. She had some choice words, and I think we made her feel very uncomfortable by attempting to pass. Sorry! It's the way of the world on easily accessed moderate terrain. Wayne led the next fun pitch, then we transitioned to simulclimbing the rest of the route. I asked to be on the front of the rope, feeling that the stronger and more experienced partner (Wayne) should second. This worked well, I occasionally got a quick belay at a short 5th class step. It was pretty chilly out, and I was grateful for the near continuous movement to stay warm! Cool view of the lake from higher up on the route: We tried to climb a fun finger crack just below the summit, but after about 40 feet it got mossier, steeper, and the smearing opportunities quickly vanished. Wayne's speculation about it's difficulty made me a little nervous about getting up it even on TR, but fortunately I was able to clean it without event, pendulum over to the easier ground, and top out. Here's a pic of Wayne on it: After this fun diversion, we were on the summit at noon. It was nice to finally have the sun warming us up after climbing a few hours in the shade. Cool view of the Dragontail summit ridge: Mount Stuart + my hand: After a half hour of eating lunch and packing up, we start to descend the backside. There's awesome views down into the Enchantments here: We took tennis shoes, aluminum 'pons, and a single ski pole each. I was a little nervous heading down the steep snow slope on the backside, but I'm relatively new to the whole tennis shoes / strap-on crampons thing. I'd advise at least crampons and a ski pole to anyone heading up there with approach/tennis shoes right now. If you hit the snowfield later in the day (we were going down 12:30ish), it might be softened up a little more by the sun and easier to negotiate sans 'pons. Before bitch-slapping your knees, Aasgard Pass gives you a nice view down to the lake: Also cool are the awesome views of the eastern / northern aspects of Dragontail from the Aasgard descent: We got down to the lake and re-fueled, heading off around 2:15 and making it back to the car by 4:15. I was very happy with doing this route 11 hours car to car; it was faster than I expected. I am also appreciative of Wayne, a far stronger and experienced climber, roping up with me and accomodating my comfort level in terms of when to belay and when to simul. Unsolicited words of advice to aspirants of this route: IMHO, this route rewards the swift-moving. Being fit, comfortable running it out a bit more than you would at the crag, quickly constructing adequate anchors, and simulclimbing smoothly all contribute to having a good time on this climb. Placing pro every ten feet, trying to construct John Long - approved anchors, and belaying each pitch would make this climb tedious and less fun. I say this as someone aspiring to bigger and more challenging climbs. That said, it can be (it was for me, anyways) a great experience and confidence builder.

From "The Eiger Sanction" - something like... Older/wiser climber: "If we continue, we're sure to die..." Younger/brasher climber: "Yes, but we shall go forth in style!"

Looking for a partner to climb Serpentine Arete on Dragontail Saturday August 2nd car to car; tons of folks want to do it, no one I know seems to be free this weekend. We're both likely to have a good time if: you're fit, know how to move fast, solid on 5.8+ in the alpine, comfortable simulclimbing low angle 4th / 5th. (These all describe me). We likely wouldn't be a good match for this outing if you're : a weirdo, not solid on gear placement and anchor skills, inexperienced in the alpine, haven't climbed in a long time but read the internet a lot. (These don't describe me, at least I think I'm not a weirdo). I'm in Seattle, can drive, and looking to head out after work tomorrow (Friday) evening and get a very early start (like 4am-ish). If you're interested, PM me (preferably with a contact #). I'll check this evening.

PM Sent

Anyone tried this? Are conditions on Boston Basin approach tough right now? I haven't been up there this year, the guidebooks allude to lots of stream crossings and I'm concerned with the high snowpack year that what might normally be little streams are flowing heavily right now. Also, how stressful is the 'loose 3rd/4th' traverse off this route? Thanks!

I've got a Colchuck lake permit for Saturday, July 19th, for a party of 2. Was planning on hitting up Dragontail, instead I've got other non-climbing plans. Cost: Cost me $12, I'd like to recoup that. I accept Paypal, and pending the transaction I can call the Ranger Station to transfer the permit to your name. Email me at janowiak (dot) jared (at) gmail (dot) com

Anyone know of an ice axe that has a hammer instead of an adze that is as long as a more typical glacier - walking piolet rather than a technical ice tool? The BD Venom and Grivel Air Tech Evo seem to be only available in shorter lengths. I think such a tool would be handy for summer alpine rock routes in the Cascades where one might carry an axe for approach purposes but also may need to place a pin or two. I never seem to use the adze anyhoo.

Thanks for the suggestions. Yeah, the Beckey guide description of the Tooth's north ridge looks good. Infinite bliss might also be a decent idea; might as well see what all the fuss is about..

Gonna get on the north ridge of Stuart near the end of the summer, and my partner and we'd like to get on some easy 3rd or 4th class terrain to get our rhythm/systems down. Any recommendations for such terrain not too far from Seattle (off I-90 corridor or Hwy 2) that isn't a choss-fest and doesn't have too long of an approach? Unpopular would be nice, too. I realize you can't have all 3, but thought I'd see where ya'll cut your teeth doing this.

I got 3 more St. Helens permits for Saturday, June 21st. Purchased back in February when they went on sale, and I made plans to not go since I'm recovering from injury and the weather was forecasted to be bad. Now the forecast is looking better! $22/face, $60 takes all 3. I take Paypal, and can send you the confirmation email to to present to pick 'em up in Cougar. Email me at janowiak (dot) jared (at) gmail (dot) com.

I'm not an arborist, but my intuition is that these man/woman-made structures on top of the trees that accomodate the tree-dwellers could be harmful to the health of said trees. If so, this looks like a clear cut case of "when keeping it real goes wrong".

Got out on Ride the Lightning (5.9, 7 pitches) this Sunday with area newcomer brad_reinke. It was fun showing him what 5.8 means in Tieton as opposed to the sport crags. We had a good day, both forgot our cameras (hence lame report). I saw this climb in the Tieton guidebook, but no one I knew had done it (personally). Pitches 1, 2, and 5 are stellar. The dihedral to roof on P2 is great fun, as is pulling the small overhang to offwidth on P5. P7 (really just scrambling) has tons of looseness that could get knocked down, but the belayer is decently protected at the anchor. Alpinfox's TR here that hardware is needed for the 3rd bolt at the P6 anchor; I only saw 2 bolts, but there is a crack adjacent that'll take a good nut. Props to the area developers - the Gangsta Rap line is easy; double ropes gets ya down mega quick! Combine this with a 10 minute walk from the car, and you've got a great moderate / beginner 'alpine' rock climb.

Learn to escape the belay (if you're gonna be on rock). I can't tell you how many people I've spoken with who are interested in or partake in alpine rock climbs that don't know shit about doing this. The Fasulo book is good.

Drift alert: Is there anything you can apply to the toe holes to inhibit ice collection in there? Some sort of dry lubricant, maybe?

If you end up going to RRS in Greenlake, check out Super Jock'n'Jill one block over. They have a modest trail runner section, but their staff are very knowledgeable and may be helpful. Also, they're an independently owned local biz, which is nice.

At the risk of being meddlesome, this woman originally posted all this stuff on craigslist. I saw it, read the blurb about her getting out of the sport due to injury, and emailed her suggested that she might post here since she'd get a better response for all the trad gear. She's not a regula CC'er, so she may not be looking to check for PMs. Her regular email address is on her profile, I'd suggest those of you who are interested in the gear email her the old fashioned way.

Gregory sold. Lafuma womens' bag still available.

Cilogear sold. Gregory + Lafuma still available.