jared_j

Thanks for having the courage to put your story out there - I hope you guys didn't sustain any frostbite / cold-injury that has longer-term consequences. I, too, have that ResQLink model and appreciate learning that there was some trouble with getting a precise location on y'all. This link is from the ACR website explaining how the device is supposed to work. I'm curious if the 'bouncing' of the signals relates to step #3 (repeated satellite passes updating / processing new info)? Or step #6? Or it was sending GPS-based lat/long directly via the satellite signal, and it was this data itself that was inaccurate or bouncy? I know you don't know the answers to these questions right now, but I have thought of the ResQLink PLBs as being as close to a 'failsafe' device with respect to functionality as you can get (in contrast to other competing products on the market like SPOT or DeLorme). It'd be great if more detail from the SAR staff could be provided about what exactly the issue was (if they know). I'm curious if there was similar difficulty in precise SAR location of the recent party on Stuart that initiated a rescue from their PLB?

Can I get to the Breakfast of Champions anchors (to TR it) from the top of GNS without shenanigans?

I recently lost my 58cm Grivel Air Tech Evo and am looking to replace it. Ideally something similar - the same axe, Petzl Summit, or BD Venom. Maybe open to a Sum'tec but prefer a classic pick. I know it's a long shot, but If you've got one laying in your closet that you're willing to part with, let me know.

This weekend I fell victim to one of the classic blunders - the most famous of which is "never get involved in a land war in Asia" - but only slightly less well-known is this: "don't just choose your own adventure down into the White Salmon basin on your way to Shuksan's north side in a low-snow year". I'm pretty sure the axe got ripped off my pack in some slide alder either in the valley proper, or on our way out (ascending to the 'high' approach normally used for winter access). Reward: a few 6's of your preferred craft beer or whatever.

PM sent on Dynafit boots

http://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/video/old-glory-insurance/n10766

Big takeaway: synthetic vs wool sounds like personal preference. This person's view: Not all synthetics are created equal (nor are all wools). In my experience, the breathability of Patagonia Capilene 2 is worlds different than any of the other synthetics of similar weight available. I notice this most during high exertion (e.g. running or going uphill hard). I've only tried Patagonia's and Ibex's wool offerings (and that was 3-4 years ago), and neither held a candle to the Capilene 2 in terms of breathability (sample size N=1). Breathability of a baselayer isn't the end-all be-all, of course. I care about it much more when wearing it trail running in the Issaquah Alps than I do trudging steadily up the volcanoes at a moderate / low intensity.

Mt Hunter from an odd angle (from the south)?

Class. Best wishes for your recovery, Josh.

Not sure. I'm going to post office tomorrow morning to ship something that has sold, I'll toss it on the scale. You'd think a nerd like me with a spectra pack would have a scale at home to geek out with, but alas I don't.

Link to MP ad for pics since I find their photo uploader easier to use and I'm lazy I'm like the Imelda Marcos of packs, and cleaning out the herd. Packs are located in the Magnolia area of Seattle, asking price doesn't include shipping (I'll split shipping for peeps in the lower 48, if you're in Canada let's talk as I've never shipped there and will have to research the cost). I accept Paypal only for remote transactions, and in return will furnish you with tracking numbers once the items ship. I'll mostly likely ship USPS parcel post as they go more by weight than size and there won't be a big penalty for the large boxes needed for packs. Custom Cilogear 45L Guide Service pack size medium, $200: This is like the standard 45L pack available on their website, but with three additions. First is a crampon pocket. Second are stretchy wand pockets on the side. Third is a reinforced bottom area. I got this pack when I was getting back into climbing after a long hiatus. I've ended up doing mostly smaller trips (with more compact gear) and don't see myself wearing a climbing - oriented pack on anything big enough necessitating this in the near future (e.g. I'm not man enough for this pack). Though labeled 45L, I think it compares to the 50 and 55L offerings from Black Diamond in size. It's on the tall side. Comes with all the stuff it shipped with (lid, bivy pad, framesheet, accessory straps). A more weight-conscious climber could easily cut off the crampon and wand pockets and have a stock 45L with a reinforced bottom. Osprey Talon 44, size M/L, $70: This pack is structurally great, but a little dirty. Used in an adventure race and a couple of backpack trips. All buckles / straps / zippers in good working order. Bottom is a little dirty (fabric is nearly white), and there's a stain on a wand pocket on the side where a not-quite-empty energy gel was shoved during said adventure race.

PM sent on Scarpas

What about Mount Temple / Temple Ridge as described in Nelson & Potterfeld's Selected Volume I book? I like W Ridge of Prusik, but wouldn't take total noobies up there. Temple has the climbing feel but is easy to get on and off of. Also noobs (in my experience) struggle with friction-y climbing, of which there is some on Prusik. Finally, relative to Prusik, you're unlikely to have other parties in good weather.

I've had a few of the Cilo offerings, and like their 30L the best. I think the 45L is really tall and probably overkill for a lot of the stuff around here. Your post has me intrigued about the 30:30 or a 40B. If I have to schlep more than 40L-ish of stuff and I'm not doing a carry-over, my preference is to pack it in with something bigger and comfier (like a cushy Granite Gear backpacking pack), and bring along a small pack to do the actual climbing with. Yes, this is probably 1-1.5 lbs heavier on the approach, but is worth it to me when on-route. Caveat: I'm super skinny and have prominent clavicles, and have always struggled with comfort carrying larger loads in the bigger ultralight-style packs.

Anyone been up in this recently? I'm thinking about it as an alternative to the regular N face route. Sounds cool, curious if nature has tried to re-take it with lichen.

Contemplating a trip up to the Twin Sisters area and possibly some of the routes around the Green Creek Cirque. The typical TRs are from earlier season with a lot of snow cover. Curious if anyone has been up recently or has a pic or two showing the snow coverage of those basins. Thanks!

Bump

Cool job for the right person. Found this when I should have been looking for more appropriate job openings for myself...

Not sure why this would be? As long as it is installed in the right direction on the rope, it will still bite when the rope is weighted by the second, regardless of where the end of the sling holding the tibloc is relative to the piece of pro? Don't have it in front of me so maybe I'm the one who is wrong...

I cut a new 70m Mammut Tusk 9.8 in half in order to get a 35m rope to lead in the gym. I'm selling the other half for $75. I live half a mile from the Seattle Vertical World in Magnolia. PM for pics

What about a soft shell with a less athletic fit and a thinner primaloft layer underneath? Not super warm but easy and maybe not the most fun ton move in, but also not insanely heavy. A thick puff with a burly shell is gonna be heavy. Edited to add that I haven't done rock routes in super cold conditions so take this idea with a grain of salt.

Edit: What did you use on your recent successful AK trip (congrats and great TR, BTW)? Were you unsatisfied with it in some way? I like the "Cold Thistle" strategy advocated by Dane on this board and his website for use just around the PNW. I use two synthetic layers. One is fairly thin and very lightweight, ideal as a standalone insulation piece in mild weather (for me, this means no colder than 30s), and weighing in under a pound. I have gone with the Rab Xenon X, 14oz, insulation weight 60 g/m. The other is thicker, and works pretty well for me doing winter stuff around WA when it isn't exceptionally cold. For this, I've used a Patagonia Micro Puff Hoody in the past but recently got an Eddie Bauer Igniter (claimed weight is like 16-17 oz, but I think it weighs a little more) when the old one lost its loft. The insulation weight is 100g/m. If it is really balls ass cold, you can double them up, and potentially use the lighter weight one as a layer while moving. The Igniter is cut generously enough that it doesn't feel like it mashes down the loft of the inner layer. I'm not a textiles scientist, but my caveman brain wants to conclude that layering two garments both with Primaloft 1 insulation (one with 100g /m and one with 60 g/m) insulates roughly similarly to a garment that would have weight 160 g/m (that the sum of multiple insulation layers is approximately linear). Of course if there's any compression of the loft of the inner layer, it will actually be equivalent to something less than 160 g/m. I have no idea if this assumption is valid; all I can say is that the layering method feels pretty warm to me. If I were doing a lot of climbing in cold places (MT, WY, CO, AK), I would maybe go a different route of getting something beefier or a single piece that has thicker insulation to avoid the minor futzing associated with using two separate layers. Back in the day I had a Wild Things Belay jacket and it was warm as hell and has a relatively burly shell fabric, but mega overkill for most conditions I encountered in the region.

My super-cool wife gave me a hallpass this weekend from parenting duty, and I'm trying to scare up a partner for some moderate alpine rock (like 5.7 or under) assuming the weather isn't crap. I'd like to do something with at least a moderately strenuous approach to avoid the crowds (e.g. not the Icicle or Liberty Bell Group). PM me to discuss route possibilities (I've got a few in mind but am open to suggestions).

If you're willing to drive as far as the Tetons (and if neither of you have warrants or recent felony convictions), what about the Bugaboos? A good variety of classic moderate routes, relatively simple (basecamp in one spot). Pretty outrageous setting. August should have the least bad weather. For something a little closer (and maybe less crowded / less of a focal point), Valhalla Range in BC. I've always wanted to hit Mt. Gimli .

Any now has-beens (or solo maestros) have a Silent Partner laying around that they bought trying to stave off the transition from being a once-was to a has-been? I'm on that road myself but still thinking that learning to rope solo can keep me in the game awhile longer before the other demands of life generally swallow up my free time. I'm in Seattle.