ScaredSilly

Not only No, but Hell No. But that has not stopped a lot of folks from trying and dying. That said you are one step above many by at least making some inquiries. My suggestion is like that of others, myself included, take a one day class on glacier travel and then use a guide for a summit attempt. Be prepared, you are going be paying for at least two guides for six people. You forgot about weather - which can turn to shit faster than most think. Being able to get back to Timberline when it is a white out is critical. People hate finding bodies when climbing.

The Sri Lankans were attacked in Lahore which quite a bit south of the Nanga Parbat region. Islamabad is closer. So I am not sure I would say "that area."

Actually, the killings were very much premeditated and not religious based per say. While the Taliban wanted to avenge the death of one of their own via a drone strike they are trying to pull in a region that for the most part has not been affected by the violence in Pakistan. The Gigit/Baltoro area depends very much on tourism. By killing tourists the Taliban hope that that the leaders will decry the drone attacks - thus indirectly supporting the Taliban. However, it can also go the other way in that the region will close ranks and hunt down the Taliban for causing them a problem.

Happened at the Nanga Parbat base camp: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/23/pakistan-gunmen-climbers_n_3484986.html

Call Paradise and ask for the Stephan Lofgren who is the Lead Climbing Ranger and see about registering ahead of time. They have been known to do that.

To me one of the most interesting aspects was in addition to learning about thread specific failure was that the waist portion of the harness was not a continuos piece of webbing. BITD all harness were made that way. That is no longer the case and in the case of multiple piece harness it may be difficult to tell as the joints are often hidden by other material. As such, checking your harness is more critical than ever. I should note that had it been a continuous piece of material the failure would have been catastrophic only if the buckle bar tack were affected.

To be honest unless you do a variation passing a noncooperative team can be difficult. How I have done it in the past is not double up on the belays but belay some where in between. That is have the leader pass the belayer of the slow party and go as far as they can. At that point bring up their second and hope they can climb and past the belayer of the slow party before they start climbing past you. That said a slow party should have some manners to allow others to pass - however, sounds like the party was pushing to be off the route by dark and figured every minute counted thus no passing.

Given the questions you are asking my suggestion is hire a guide or join the Mazamas (or similar organization) and take a one day course then attempt the summit. This will give you some basic knowledge to be reasonably safe on the hill.

Conditions on the ridge always seem variable. When we did it in the late 80s in early June I remember crossing the Carbon was not bad. But gaining the ridge was a snow wallow so we climbed the scree which was slightly better. Once on the ridge it was a crap shoot. We wallowed in the snow in places and climbed on the ridge line in other places. Above Thumb Rock it was great névé or ice (right side). The shrund at the top going left had a crack but was straight forward.

It has been a long time since I have cracked any geology books but my understanding is the Sierra Nevada Range is a batholith which are magna intrusions that did not reach the surface. While some magma did reach the surface such as Devil's Post Pile it was not from a volcano. If there was a volcano I would expect some evidence such as what is seen at Yellowstone.

I learned long ago that Yosemite is the remnant of a batholith system (granite is crystallized from magmas) but I have never heard that is was under a volcano. It would be interesting to know how the author purports this notion as to my knowledge there is no evidence of caldera.

Pickets are quite useful. The above gives good info. The main concern is getting them in so they do not cantilever out when loaded. I pound them suckers in deep cause often the top snow/nevé/ice is crap. Also as said if you dig trench for the sling/cable to sit in all the better. All of my pickets have permanent wire cables on them which will cut into the softer top layers.

No, you can not be detained for refusing to answer. You can only be detained if there is reasonable suspicion that you have committed a crime. Traveling along a road which is where most checks are done way does not constitute reasonable suspicion. The same can be legally be done at DUI check points which are similar. The courts have said such check points are a minimal invasion of privacy given the benefit to the public (4th amendment). However, the right to refuse to answer still holds (5th amendment). The two key questions to ask after you you refuse to answer and the official is unsure what to do and asks you pull over are "Am I being detailed" if they say no then ask "Am I free to go". The above applies within the USA - it does not apply at borders or other point of entry (i.e. Chicago after arriving on an international flight).

Immigration can legally set up check points within the USA but you can legally refuse to answer any questions. The only place immigration/customs officials can make you do anything is when crossing the border.

First, it is not customs but immigration. Customs is for goods, immigration is for people. Second it does not matter whether it was a felony or misdemeanor conviction, the fact that one has been arrested (but not convicted) can be enough to be deemed inadmissible. If your conviction was truly expunged then you may be ok - damn well had better check on that - regardless of your travel desires. Records do not always get update correctly. http://www.canadainternational.gc.ca/australia-australie/visas/inadmissible-interdite.aspx That said after you figure out things on this side of the border your best is to personally contact a consulate. http://www.canadainternational.gc.ca/seattle/index.aspx

Nice. I have always wanted to try that line. How was the last pitch? Must have fun to plop on to the summit after that last bit.

Plenty have bailed off. As said being able to down climb competently once above thumb rock is a must. However, real judgement comes when one realizes that a forward retreat can be safer. Further, there is also much to be said about safety in numbers as well staying together. The summit can often be in a cloud cap so before going up the finial headwall grouping up can be helpful in negotiating the summit plateau. I would say they got lucky. For glacier travel, IMHO each person should be carrying an ice screw. If ya go into a crack setting a screw can often help greatly while one sorts things out. As such, a three person party should have had at least three screws. They only had two - so error number 1. Further, it does not sound like they had any pickets. Pickets are some of the most useful pieces of gear on Rainier. One can beat the hell out of one and get it to protect things. So error number 2. What was on their side was a party of three and some good weather. So they got lucky. FWIW when we did the headwall some 25 years ago we used three pickets and then once above needed one more so I just used my ice axe finishing the last bit with one tool. As such, here again I will make the comment that there is a lot to be said for learning how to competently climb steep snow with one tool. Never, know when you might need to use yer tool for pro or fumble yer way up after dropping one.

I woud recommend seeing an opthamologist as it sounds like you are having some sort of reaction to the intense UV/visible light.

The majority are doing old chute, if you need a second tool for the standard S. Side you should not be up there. As for crampons, I'd recommend a pair of SMC hinged strap-ons for the S. Side. Any thing else is over kill.

That one was a piece of shit and was basically recalled by Falcon because of all of issues with it. Get Dave Bingham's books. They will get you the crag and back without issue.

I have crossed it roped and unroped so it depends. When in doubt rope up as it is less weight to carry.

Join the Alpine Club and you can borrow the books from their library.

What ever you do - do not piss in the parking lot. Gotta watch a ranger bust someone for doing that years ago. It was pretty damn funny.

This TR reminds me of a quote by a good friend: We all make dumb decisions. Most of the time we get away with it. But when don't we're dead.

Hard ice??? I seriously doubt that it is ice perhaps hard nevé. This statement is not to undermine the idea running belays or the consequences of not using protection but there is huge difference between climbing a slope covered in ice and on covered in nevé.