ScaredSilly

Exactly. So for instance, after you do Kautz and the Finger and want to do Liberty Ridge take a 60cm axe and 50cm hammer (which exactly what I took). Much of the time you will use just 60 cm axe so the longer length will be nice. When you get to the steeper sections and want the hammer whip it out and go. Then when you move over to Ptarmigan, take two tools. With both bring ski poles as that make life much easier on the slog up to high camp.

My suggestion is to get a pair of tools for the steep stuff. If you need a second just take one and use it with your long tool and not worry about if it makes a good match. At some point you will be able to know when to take what - either two tools or just one and none of the mixed and match. Regardless of what tools I do take with me I take a pair of ski poles. Using a ski pole with an ice axe will help with the shuffle if not on hard ice.

Not sure what to think about this article and the implications: http://www.nationalparkstraveler.com/2013/07/mount-rainier-national-park-climbers-need-be-more-self-reliant-park-alters-rescue-techniques23649 I guess one should be ready to fully self-rescue. Should be anyways but perhaps more so.

The Finger will out of condition in August as it is more of an early mid season route. In July it becomes bowling for climbers. The Kautz is a good choice though late in the season it becomes very sun cupped with rotten penitents but a with a good freeze the lower tongue can be ice. Call me old school - but there seems to be a big jump to go to two tools especially on the Kautz. However, there is a lot to be said about learning to competently climbing short easy but icy sections with one tool. Especially on the Kautz where the sections are all of a couple hundred feet and get sun cupped.

By fixed line I assume the old rope we found 5 years ago and left as a rap from the bivy sites. It was better than the other piece of crap rope that was left there. Normally, I would have carried it down rather than leave crap on the hill but we went up and over. Something I recommend to folks as going down the DC is quick. If the two icy sections are sun cupped enough that no pro is required I would suggest leaving the second tool. Should already have a couple of screws for crevasse rescue so take a couple more and practice foot work on steeper sections and set pro when needed. Climbing with one tool and being comfortable on steeper terrain is a real asset (i.e. faster than two tools). While from 2008 here are some photos for ya. http://www.poulinenvironmental.com/poulinenvironmental/Kautz_Glacier_2008.html

Nice, but ya gotta dry feet and fingers out - Yikes!!

I would agree with the two weeks - simply because Anastasia and Oleg have a wee bit more experience on the hill and as such know when to suck it up. Water, very good observation. I read and commented on the other post as well. It got a bit winded so I do not recall the "no lecture" part. But if they do not want it so why post it. These folks seem like they would take the constructive analysis thus posted.

While it was good that you were able to slug it out without any assistance - you really fell victim to what I call visiting climber syndrome - traveling great distances to climb a route that was really out of shape. Changing objectives is often necessary and one needs to have flexibility. Especially, when one is unfamiliar with the hill. Some other points for yourself analysis. Many do not make all the way from White River to the Carbon on their first day. It is a slog. However, if you broke camp at midnight that means up were probably up at least an hour earlier which means perhaps 4 hours of sleep after your first long day with early acclimatization. The too early of a start had you dropping down on to the Carbon in the dark without any chance of scouting a route in the light. And you wasted time energy because of that. Time and energy that could have been used sleeping/recovering. I would disagree with your assessment that losing a day on the Carbon was not unusual. It is unusual. While many under estimate the difficulties they are typically are able to traverse it and still make it to Thumb Rock in a day. They may come in late and may take a rest day there. Or they make the decision to turn around before getting on the ridge. Your bivy on the Carbon was not wise. Serac fall from the Willis Wall happens regularly and fills the basin. You could have literally been blown into crevasse, buried, never to be found. It is here, before you gained the ridge that you really should have made the decision to retreat. If I read correctly it took you 20 hours from the Carbon camp to Thumb Rock. All I can say is yikes!! All in all you got away with it, but the physical conditioning issues and especially the medical issue makes it sound like it was your first ascent at altitude. As Doug Scott once said "Pucky lads a wee bit over their heads"

Jeff loves you and you know it. She just does not know how to show it. Heal well.

Nice !!!

Had a few low offers but time for bump $425 shipped.

Another bump with a price drop $275 shipped.

Gentlemen, I would kindly suggest that you contact Stephan Lofgren who is the lead climbing ranger. He needs to hear these concerns.

Thanks for posting it up. From that location one can only assume that the climber went by Leuthold's and around to Sandy Glacier Headwall. The location is in line with someone going up the headwall. Whether he went by Leuthod's on accident* or on purpose we will never know. Either way sad outcome. *one does not necessarily need to have bad weather to mistake the line of ascent.

The question is will be where on the Sandy Glacier was he found. Certainly possible he fell along the traverse. Also remember gear can go flying during a fall. Which couloir are you speaking about? Luethold, Yokum Ridge, Sandy Glacier Headwall, and Cathedral Ridge all meet up at the Queen's Chair. Regardless, bummer to hear about the accident.

Nice!!!

Not only No, but Hell No. But that has not stopped a lot of folks from trying and dying. That said you are one step above many by at least making some inquiries. My suggestion is like that of others, myself included, take a one day class on glacier travel and then use a guide for a summit attempt. Be prepared, you are going be paying for at least two guides for six people. You forgot about weather - which can turn to shit faster than most think. Being able to get back to Timberline when it is a white out is critical. People hate finding bodies when climbing.

The Sri Lankans were attacked in Lahore which quite a bit south of the Nanga Parbat region. Islamabad is closer. So I am not sure I would say "that area."

Actually, the killings were very much premeditated and not religious based per say. While the Taliban wanted to avenge the death of one of their own via a drone strike they are trying to pull in a region that for the most part has not been affected by the violence in Pakistan. The Gigit/Baltoro area depends very much on tourism. By killing tourists the Taliban hope that that the leaders will decry the drone attacks - thus indirectly supporting the Taliban. However, it can also go the other way in that the region will close ranks and hunt down the Taliban for causing them a problem.

Happened at the Nanga Parbat base camp: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/23/pakistan-gunmen-climbers_n_3484986.html

Call Paradise and ask for the Stephan Lofgren who is the Lead Climbing Ranger and see about registering ahead of time. They have been known to do that.

To me one of the most interesting aspects was in addition to learning about thread specific failure was that the waist portion of the harness was not a continuos piece of webbing. BITD all harness were made that way. That is no longer the case and in the case of multiple piece harness it may be difficult to tell as the joints are often hidden by other material. As such, checking your harness is more critical than ever. I should note that had it been a continuous piece of material the failure would have been catastrophic only if the buckle bar tack were affected.

To be honest unless you do a variation passing a noncooperative team can be difficult. How I have done it in the past is not double up on the belays but belay some where in between. That is have the leader pass the belayer of the slow party and go as far as they can. At that point bring up their second and hope they can climb and past the belayer of the slow party before they start climbing past you. That said a slow party should have some manners to allow others to pass - however, sounds like the party was pushing to be off the route by dark and figured every minute counted thus no passing.

Given the questions you are asking my suggestion is hire a guide or join the Mazamas (or similar organization) and take a one day course then attempt the summit. This will give you some basic knowledge to be reasonably safe on the hill.

Conditions on the ridge always seem variable. When we did it in the late 80s in early June I remember crossing the Carbon was not bad. But gaining the ridge was a snow wallow so we climbed the scree which was slightly better. Once on the ridge it was a crap shoot. We wallowed in the snow in places and climbed on the ridge line in other places. Above Thumb Rock it was great névé or ice (right side). The shrund at the top going left had a crack but was straight forward.