Sherri

That's one that sneaks up on you, too. Climbed it last summer a full week after heavy rains, got to the crux pitch to find water everywhere. Not that it stopped us--especially since you've already passed the rappel station by the time you can see the crux--but it certainly added to the adventure. The climb is a fun one, though. Great recommendation.

Diedre KILLS my calves. I hate that climb.

Squamish bathed in sunshine in MARCH??! Oh man, I want some of that! Thanks for the stoke and way to go on your first Squish outing.

Best Original Climbing-Partner Post Award (Hope you had a taker!)

Sorry to hear about your crash landing, Kenny. Makes a good story, though, and I'm sure you'll be back up there in no time with a happier ending(no pun intended).

My rack for Rattletale isn't too different from yours. I'm sure those confident at the grade could do it with singles and/or walking gear up. I'm not there yet, but it sure is fun to try.

Rattletale Take a couple #2's and #3's. And tape your wrists if you don't want folks suspecting that you're a cutter.

Never get tired of seeing those Index cracks. Too bad we can't figure out a way to use all these Index TR's to generate some $$ for the cause.

Maybe you could do a mini-fundraiser. A "lemonade" stand in the climbers lot? I bet you'd have that t-shirt in no time!

I stayed at Arizona Charlie's a couple times in the last few years. Still a decent place for the price. I'd recommend Suncoast Casino(near Whole Foods on Charleston); a bit pricier but way nicer and better location. Rooms start at $49: suncoast room rates

Safe travels, Crillz. See you there!

Cool t-shirt design. No need to drag along the guidebook.

Flannel with cut-off sleeves and a leather Harley Davidson wallet in the pocket? Mine, thanks.

Definite must-do. (just don't forget to call in for a late-exit permit. The $125 fine kind of ruins the magic.) Whole Foods on Charleston has free internet. Stash your pack well and don't leave valuables in it. Check the forecast frequently and take heed. Things can get ugly there in a hurry, especially if the winds kick up. Take lots of photos and post a TR.

Just curious, is this one of your proofs, Viktor? I found a stack of them, depicting several newly developed crags. I've wondered who to credit for them.

Me too.

Trip: Red Rock, NV - Prime Rib Date: 3/1/2010 Trip Report: Looking to escape the crowds enjoying lovely weather at Index last week, I flew to Vegas in time to catch the tail end of yet another storm soaking the desert there. El Nino has made it tough to catch a good weather window at Red Rock this winter. I knew the forecast looked bleak, once again, but I was desperate for a sandstone fix so I decided to chance it. My gamble paid off. On March 1, a sunny, mild Monday, Argus played hookey so we could meet up with Maurice Horn to climb Prime Rib, a new 5.7 multipitch put up by Maurice last winter on Disappearing Buttress(aka Illusion Buttress). The 500ft buttress is located outside of the loop and is accessed via the same desert track used to reach Illusion Crags and Windy Peak, off of Hwy 160. Handren's Red Rock guidebook has a good map of the approach. The track is rough in spots, and I'm not known for my driving skillz(I've run over a few cars)but it was good enough for my little Suzuki rental car. *All photos courtesy of Argus* As the name implies, Prime Rib follows the prominent rib up the south face of the buttress. (Great winter or cool weather climb!) Maurice and his partner John started up the first pitch, which is 115' of mostly 4th/5th class, to a belay ledge with with a pine tree and some finger size cracks for gear. Beware of loose/soft rock on this pitch. A foothold blew out from beneath me just after I placed my first piece. The route is still "maturing," as Maurice puts it. Maurice has been excited to see this new route attract increasing attention, envisioning it becoming perhaps another moderate classic here. Case in point: we were no sooner off the ground before another party of three showed up behind us(though they chose not to follow after indicating that they thought our pace was too slow. Oh snap.) Maurice belaying John at the base of P4 Argus took the lead on P2, 115' of 5.7 steep face climbing around a small roof with some runout sections. Again, watch for fragile rock. Pitch 3 was my lead, about 100' of pleasant 5.6 climbing on good rock, trending right of the rib following a curving crack up the face, with plenty of nut-placements available between varnished plates and a few bomber handsize cams. You could also climb directly up the rib(which Maurice and John did) but pro is a little more sparse going that way. We belayed atop a pillar of soft white rock on the arete. Pitch 4 was probably the best one of the route150ft of steep 5.7 face climbing up beautiful varnished plates which gradually traverse up and right, then straight up. Argus did a fantastic lead. The last pitch was a short easy one up a water chute/gully to your right then up left of a large boulder. This route could be easily broken up into more or less pitches, though rope drag could be a factor if you stretched the pitches too much. The descent is a relatively mellow walk-off across the slabs to the climbers left, working your way down and left around the base of the buttress, passing beneath "No Country for Young Men" before returning to your pack. The trail is loose and bushy in places yet, but should get better with more traffic. This a beautiful area with a remote feeling(compared to the Loop) and plenty of good rock for everyone. Don't be surprised if you are stuck behind a first ascensionist. Be sure to bring along beta for the other routes here(a growing list which includes No Country for Young Men, 5.8; Varnishing Act, 5.9.), as well.the Handren guidebook which includes Illusion Crags in case you want to round out the day on the shady single-pitch lines there. Mountain Project--Disappearing Buttress Gear Notes: 60m rope, several long slings, standard rack to 3".(Our #4 Camalot was placed but not essential). The face sections are protected primarily with nuts and Aliens (if you still carry them.) Helmets are a smart idea. Approach Notes: We parked at the pullout for Illusion Crags, though you could also park at the next pullout(toward Windy Peak) for a more direct start to the hike. The hike from the pullout to Disappearing Buttress took about an hour. The trail to DB is indistinct initially(do not stay on the obvious trail veering left toward Illusion Crags), but trend high then right watching for scattered cairns which cross a waheventually funnel you up a more obvious trail leading left to the base of DB and start of Prime Rib.

Climbing is climbing, and if I am not climbing, I enjoy hearing what the lucky stiffs who ARE climbing are up to. The early-season TR's are the best cuz they're put up by folks who are motivated enough to get out there and get after it ASAP(not wait around like me until it's a comfy 62 degrees before my wimpy fingers can bear to touch rock). I say keep 'em coming. And if Fig Newtons were vital to the success of the send, I want to know. Serioulsy.

Right on! That sucker spat me off on my last two attempts. Congrats on the clean send!

Awesome! Warming up on Godzilla is nothing to sneeze at. Congrats! I wanna be there.

The local paper(Peninsula Daily News) said the park will be waiving the entrance fees this weekend to celebrate. Newspaper article

I have no idea who owns it. I've only seen it from the car, too. Looks like there could be an interesting OW, crack system tucked on the far right side.

Westies I got one of these vans two years ago mostly for climbing-trip transport and accommodation...absolutely LOVE it. Though I have to chuckle about the "$30 fix" for the coolant light. Every time ours blinks, it costs us at least a couple hundred dollars to figure out why. (Ironically, it never has to do with the coolant level or the light itself. It's just evil.)