Sherri

Do I get to watch you shower?

Here you go, Rob: From http://www.climb.co.nz/Places/Australia/MtArapiles/Mt-Arapiles-Rock-Climbing.htm: Seasons Spring (September to November) is generally fine, however it can rain with little warning. Summer (December to February) is dry and hot, with climbing often restricted to the shady gullies Autumn (March to May) is generally fine with cooler nights Winter (June to August) while it can be wet and cooler, you can get some near perfect days. I've not climbed there, but my understanding is that when it's too hot at Arap, Mt. Buffalo or Tassie are good warm-weather alternatives. You may want to check out this site, also-- great for local beta/partners. http://www.chockstone.org/ (I'm on there under my Aussie nomer, "Shez") I'll be heading Down Under next year to catch up with some old friends there, and to climb(of course). If your trip pans out, maybe we could rendevous.

Were you at Aries when the girl was squeeeeezing a #4 into that fist crack at the start? I was curious if that cam ever made it back out of there.

Where are the bubbles?

You've got a way with words, Rad. I can see why Blake was hiding his girlfriend from you. I haven't been to Yos yet, but it's encouraging to know that there might be some routes in my league when I do make it down there. Thanks for mentioning that. (I'll bring my headlamp for the moonlight send.) Watching and reading about you guys pulling on the hard stuff out there at Index is good inspiration for us up-and-comers.

Thanks, Bug. Good to know. I'll scope it out next time.

Thanks, Rad, but homey's not quite ready to lead da Buttlips. 2nd pitch of Princely is neat and worth doing, IMHO. It's certainly not in the "classic" category, but interesting enough(and different in character from the 1st pitch)so you get a little more bang for your buck while you're already up there.

Well said. Thanks for the great, TR, Rad. Looks like you guys racked up some exciting mileage that day. As any of us who have been humbled by even the "easy" routes there can attest to, Index doesn't give away its goods. She makes you work for it. So, well done, guys! I added a new lead to my meager Index repetoire last trip--the 5.8 second pitch of Princely Ambitions--and it put a smile on my face the whole way home. The first pitch of Princely is still a bit out of my league(pyschologically, at least, as I'm a little spooked by that blank-face side-step move and the thin pro on the hand-traverse), but the second pitch was ripe for the picking. Started with a couple rattly hand jams and skittery feet, but once I got into the flared section with the solid hand jams I was stoked for the O/W moves awaiting. Fun stuff up there.

Mmmmmmm...bubbles...

You're welcome, and I'm glad you found some good reading. Some good lessons in there, especially when it comes to listening to our gut instincts when climbing with new partners. (and thanks for the kisses. )

Thank you! That's better. Here's another one by a neat girl I climbed with last time in Red Rocks. Climbing Blog :kisss:

What? No kiss?

Don't forget yer goggles.

Hey M, Have you checked out "Saragrace's"(she posts here)? It's a good one: http://www.rockclimbergirl.com/

This guy's a top-notch partner, folks. Good luck, Ted. Have a great time.

Here's one of the view from the 3rd pitch. (note the brand new shoes...this was my second day of learning to climb )

HTF did I miss this razor-sharp exchange (b/w Mark and Dru) of witty banter? Hilarious, yet informative (sorta). They lotht me at "mafic batholiths."

Beautiful, Tvash!

That's a nice one of Midway, Matt. Better than the wavy lines drawn up the low-res photos in the current Kramer book. BTW, I prefer taking the "variation" line in your Midway topo. I like how it avoids the rope drag of going under that first roof. Yeah, it's a sacrifice to miss the chimney section that comes afterward, but the the extra exposure of MD and neat traverse back onto Midway proper at the old piton ring are a good trade off. Did you draw up that topo?

anyone know of a place to find a more detailed topo for it than the ones in Kramer's book?

It's funny, I was justing asking CBS about Cat Burgler and he recommended aiding that first move on the route. Good job getting off the ground cleanly! Thanks. I think my shins would have rather done it with aid. The moves on the rest of the route weren't particularly straightforward(balancy traverse, sparse pro, etc), but they were certainly less painful. I think you made the right call taking your chances on R&D. I really enjoy that one, especially the chimney bit.

We got caught in the Castle Rock Traffic Jam, as well. Seeing that the starts of Midway and Saber were stacked with people in matching orange shirts(?), we opted for the wide-open Cat Burglar route. I left most of my shin skin on that start . The rest of the route was spicy but interesting and went quickly. Our progress came to a screeching halt at Saber ledge, however. We neglected to factor in that it converges with Saber at that point. Oh well, win some lose some. Got to second Angel for the first time later that day. That's a sweet crack! KKK, congrats on your R&D send. Sounds like you gave your "clients" a terrific experience and enjoyed a fine day out. That route gets my vote for the worst walk-off in the Icicle. I don't think that there really is a descent trail there, at least not one that deserves to be called a "trail." It's nasty even in approach shoes.

No thanks. You'd just be in the way.

I think she made that one up. Sounds fun though.