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MarkMcJizzy

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Everything posted by MarkMcJizzy

  1. Add George Kotick, who died on the scrambling section of Serpintine Ridge in 1987, while on a climb with John Emminger
  2. Link to corrosion webpage Good way to impress Dr's Jugs and Choada
  3. What I meant was that with the exception of some engineers and others here, most of us are BS'ing to some degree. Stress corrosion cracking is one type of failure that can result when a metal is stressed in an environment corrosive to it. There are other types of failures similar to this. Grain boundaries can be opened up, and any plating could be cracked. I will be careful in the future to not offend the rigid intellectual standards you have set for CC
  4. Back on the subject. Most, if not all of us are probably lacking in proper metallurgical knowlege.This includes me. My hypothesis: galvanic corrosion was probably not the primary cause. A stress induced oxidation at the upper brake probably caused the lower area to see increased bending stresses, thereby causing the second and lower failure. These forces could have been exacerbated by an improper bolt placement, such as a concavity
  5. I nominate this for the baseless and specious speculation of the year. Sources? Or just urban legend bullshit? Anyone doing this would be committing a felony worthy of investigation by law enforcement at the least, and assault or man-slaughter in worse case scenarios. Plus, when big daddy law was done with them, all their assets would be owned by someone else. This story is just plain not believable, but is a excellent example of rumor mongering.
  6. I don't believe this to be true. The application method for zinc to a carbon steel material is simple compared to applying nickel alloys to iron. I do not believe that it would be economical to do this, when the amount of SS being saved is very very small. My vote is for Patriots hypothesis
  7. You're joking right? This thread should be relocated to "Rock climbing" though
  8. The above comments pertain to chain-only anchors where washers are used to pad out the height. Brian Burdo used to do this extensively. If you are able to bolt hard against the rock, I am sure that some of the pertinence of my statements dissipate
  9. Precedence or not, not using hangers is a really really poor way to go. But I can sympathise with the fact that the hangers are being stolen. As it is, using such a large bolt probably makes up for any loss in anchor design due to increased leverage moment.
  10. My gawd, that is an old piece of shit MSR T-bird. I first thought that it may be a nice wooden shafted axe that showed care and craftsmanship in its construction. MSR axes were(are) very functional and strong, but certainly not an example of anything but Larry Penberthy's Rube Goldberg streak. To spend $500 on one is mind numbing, kind of like spending $20K on a Chevy Citation or a Gremlin. Maybe in 50 years that T-Bird will be worth some money, but now you seem worthy of the dupe of the year. BTW, my general mountaineering axes are a MSR Sumner (1977), or a Forest axe ('80), that I would be happy to take a K for.
  11. Climbing gyms go through an incredible number of ropes. Contact one of them.
  12. Sounds painful, sad, and gnarly. Werner refered to two broken orbital bones
  13. That is a good idea, it allows hiking, biking, and kayaking. I am sure that neither Pope or Dawg condones biking in a Wilderness or a Roadless study area (but you are correct that there are MTB who abhore Wilderness protection). There are many areas of typically "multi-use" where MTB is a fine activity
  14. Free Pope from the evil clutches of the CC banerators
  15. The number is as likely to be five as it is twenty. And the truth is, correlating and cataloging ascents of those ridges is not something that is done in any real sense. My list of possible people leaned heavily on climbers who graduated high school in the fifties. There was a huge group of climbers born between 1948 and 1964 who viewed Rainier as a great challenge, but did not need to get "The Three North Ridge" merit badge. I just do not believe that statistics have been very well kept, and quoting them should be avoided.
  16. Backoff Dru, he's a lawyer. Sounds like a good one too.
  17. Good god! Looked it up in Dee Molenaar's book. Gene Prater Liberty Ridge, second ascent 1955. Ptarmigan Ridge, second ascent, 1959. Curtis Ridge, first ascent, 1957. So this difficult and seldom done triptych was first done fifty years ago. By 1957 Marcel Shuster had climbed Liberty and Curtis Ridges. Was he still active into the '60's?
  18. This is probably a claim that would not stand up to scrutiny. People who probably climbed all thee ridges prior to thirty five years ago: Jim Wickwire, Ed Boulton, Dusan Jagersky, Mike Heath, Dan Davis, and Gene Prater. Most of these ascents were probably prior to 1969. This list could easily be researched further, but to quote such a low number as ten seems presumptuous And since he did the first ascent of Curtis, as well as the second ascent of Liberty, Gene Prater seems as likely a person as Jim Wickwire
  19. Where did you caffine up? Chicka/Lake City Way? Best Friends? Cow Girls Clearview? Bad Dog? Cow Girls Monroe? All of them?
  20. That is what Feck was saying. Off belay=off. I laugh at the morons that think "off" means "Ok, I'm at the station, let me screw with stuff, then you can lower me", then the next words you hear are "take!". "Off" means "I am done, you no longer have to safe-guard my life. Go eat, pee, and what ever else you do"
  21. ever notice how all great threads have one poster that sucks? dude, that's you
  22. Funny, how the Beatles chose June 1 to release this album. They must have known that in only twelve years, the Seattle Supersonics would win their one and only world championship on the very same day.
  23. Fuck you Bill, I used to bled Sonic Green and Yellow, BITD. Jack made $80K that year. The Sonics were the last true blue collar champion basketball team. Next year Ervin and Larry showed up, and it all started to revolve around individuals (at least in the eyes of the media). Magic, Larry, Michael, Chuck, and Carl were great players, but they heralded in big money.
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