MarkMcJizzy

True story Eric told me that Dan watched Quinn fall 1000' down Monte Cristo.

It is a well known fact that Lake City is the neighborhood of choice among the CC elite. Now we may know why From the PI Charges have been filed against a mother-son team accused of supporting prostitution at a North Seattle massage parlor. According to police statements, Haoran Fu, 20, managed Global Healing Center for his mother, Dongfang Li, 45. Seattle police launched a sting operation against the business, located at 3316 N.E. 125th St., following complaints that prostitution was occurring there.

Well, it's not in central or eastern Washington

No. A knot at position (2) renders a 3:1 to 1:1. A knot at (1) renders the system 2:1 instead of 3:1. It really shouldn't be that hard to visualize.

Looks like he'll be rotting away in jail too. I'm sure that the Chief has a strong and legal case, and isn't pandering to his stupid red-neck constituents

Thanks! Should we buy Wastral and CBS these books too? And a pocket calculator? Seriously, at what point are pulleys useless? Former YNP rescue czar Tim Setnicka (Wilderness Search and Rescue [1980]) has a study where a "Z" set up with only carabiners has a negative efficiency. At that point, single line yarding would be better

How about a little more info about this book? I'm trying to find it at the KCLS or the SnoHo libraries. Thanks

This is my third and last revision of my opinion. Put the best pulley at position (2). No matter what the two Brians say 1) I believe that I have already demonstrated that in an ideal pulley system, that drag will be distributed throughout the system. Wether the inefficient pulley is at the end, or the start will not matter, except: 2) As pulley (1) tends towards 0% efficiency, the system will tends towards a 4:1 advantage As pulley (2) tends to 0% efficiency, the system will tend towards a 2:1 advantage As pulley (3) tends to 0%, the system will tend to 3:1 Therefore, it would be most advantageous to have the best pulley at position (2), keeping the system more towards the ideal 6:1 advantage. 3) Many pulley analysis assume that the largest source of drag will be the pulleys. In a rescue situation, this can be completely wrong. As shown in the OP, the edge will be a huge drag point. Pulley (3) could be a 12" Skookum block with bearings, and it will do no real good if there is a huge amount of drag at the lip. In this type of situation, you want your best pulleys where they can do the best work, closest to the mechanical input. If you followed Wastral or CBS's advise, you best pulley would be being wasted because of edge drag. Wastral's comment that this system is stupid is also not correct. In my more than several years of climbing I have learned that 1) Jumaring up an overhang, without a pack, in Yosemite, is not easy. Prussiking with a large pack and cold hands in a crevasse could easily become impossible. 2) I have only been involved in one major crevasse rescue, but in that case we did have to get another rope down to the victim because of edge trenching. So wether a "C", a "Z", or a 6:1 is set up, it is likely another rope may have to be used. Wastral or CBS can attempt to refute this, but I believe my analysis is correct

Where L is load 1.5 is the increased force for a 50% efficient pulley all other pulleys are 100% efficient and 1/n is the ideal pulley system mechanical efficiency ((L*1/2) * 1.5 (1/3) = ((L*1/2)*((1/3)*1.5) Where is this wrong?

I am tending to agree with Wastral, but I am also wondering if it matters? I did my own calculations on a two by two pulley system ( 4:1, U on U ), with one (1) 100% efficient pulley, and one (1) 50% pulley. The pull force is 37.5% of total load no matter if the good pulley is located at the victim, or at the tended position. I mathematically bogged down doing a Z on U, but it should be easy for someone to do. Sorry I can't post cool diagrams like the OP, buy it seems like the answer should be quantitatively producible, and not bogged down in rhetoric. I believe the mathematical law of position applies (I forget the real name of this law) ie: 1x3=3x1

I dunno about that. Granted I have not been to the WWU gym, but if it is anything like the hunk of shite we have at UO, then I can easily see getting any and all serious college climbers to join your gym. The Crux in Eugene definitely has that going for it. Population of Bellingham WA : 75,000 Population of Eugene OR : 154,000 Population of Whatcom County WA: 166,000 Population of Lane County OR: 322,000 Ya think the deomgraphics are a little different?

This is truly a geek-fest. Ropegoats math seems the strongest, but I think I am going to revise my answer; put the best pulley at location (2). If the pulley at (3) is 100% inefficient, then the system is still 3:1. If the pulley at (2) is 100% inefficient, then the system is only 2:1

Thanks, I used Dalys Pro-fin. Probably the gloss finish, rubbed on several times.

Isn't the load at both (1) and (2) [ {2/3}X {1/2} load ], while the load at (3) 100% load. Therefore the best location for the most efficient pulley is at point (3) ?

I have bought wood several times at Urban Hardwoods. It is just like buying from Crosscut or Compton, the wood is non-dimensional, not S2S. It has been thru a planer, and a kiln. In fact, it is I who informed our own arboreal consultant about Urban Hardwoods

Here is a KD (knock-down) bookcase I built from arboreally harvested walnut and madrone in 2003. The walnut had been cut into rough planks, and I needed to re-surface it. The madrone needed to be re-sawn, and in some cases laminated and/or glued-up. Madrone is a very fine wood, extremely close grained in some cases, and highly figured in others.

Go for it! You can do it!

Who lives in Portland?

The Index parking lot has about a foot of snow on it. The entire trail to the LTW is buried, although the base is clear. I would imagine the trail to the UTW is in full conditions, and snow melt is common. The remainder of this winters snowfall is truly amazing and surprising. Slightly to the west, the trail to Wallace Falls was snow free to ~1700'.

RuMR got upset when another poster suggested bolting routes on bridge stanchions in Portland. Bolting routes onto bridges should be considered to be stupid and irresponsible

Why even fix it? Crystal and the Summit Co. are all owned by the same company now. If you own 70% of the lifts in western Washington, why invest money making the historically financially worst ski area operable?

I was refering to the term in it's sub-snow pack context. And I still can't tell what consistancy the debris have. Regardless, it is really cool ( as long as no one got hurt )

I can't really discern much in any of the photos. I think in reality what it probably could best be described as: a sub-snow pack mudflow (almost a joukuloup sinso-stricto)releasing somewhere on the eastern portion, which caused a large slab avalanche to propagate to the west, and uphill. ****************************************************************** When I was in my twenties, the term joukuloup was confined to sub glacial debri torrents presumably caused by volcanic and hydro-thermal heat sources. I understand that the usage of the term is now much more liberal

But, both the top and at least the upper 1/2 of the western side are defined by a snow-slab fracture. The upper 1/2 of the sliding surface appears to be planar. The NWAC has been stating that 100% climax slab avalanches are probable given the dynamics of this snow pack. So I would say that it was a slab avalanche with the decollement being a wet relatively smooth grassy surface with possibly a surface hoar layer immediately above. The debris could be expected whenever such a large wet strata is involved in a structural failure. I would also add, that in a failure of this sort, as wether it is a slab causing a debris flow, or a mud flow triggering a slab avalanche is mostly arguing semantics.

Ron Asheton -RIP