Argus

Dark Shadows would be cold as hell in the winter. Birdland on the Brass Wall would be another good option. Olive Oil and Geronimo get morning sun.

There were flakes falling as I drove over Steven's Pass this morning. Snow was accumulating several hundred feet above the lodge.

It appears that your silica vaginosis infection has spread to your foot.

Ouch, that stings. What did Rox do to warrant your ire? I dont live there anymore but just curious whats up with her (and jareds) guide? The general consensus is there is a lot of wrong information in the book. Routes are mislabeled, approach directions are off, and pitch lengths/topos are screwed up. It seems that not a lot of research was put into the book and it was just kind of slapped together. I guess people expect more when they're shelling out $35 for a guidebook. As for Layton's stolen comment, I'd like to hear more.

A new guide for Red Rock just came out. From what I hear, it blows the other guide books away. Here's a link to it (with sample topos and photos). http://www.redrocksguidebook.com/

I was in the same situation you are being bored with alpine. I say go for it. If you can make it through the first couple weeks of awkwardness (and punishment), you're golden. To me the gracefulness of a tele turn doesn't even compare to skis or snowboarding. Plus, when you're skiing pow you get way deeper into it.

check your pm's

Like this?

Jake - I agree with your less is more perspective. I like the fact that a lot of the guide is vague. The problem I have with Brunckhorst's guide is that if you are going to into detail about a route, then you should at least make it accurate. It seems like a lot of the beta he uses come 3rd hand and gets lost in translation from my experience. P.S. I think you need 2 beers.

There's some beta in Ron Brunckhorst's Alpine Ice and Rock Guide To Southwest & Central Montana. It's not a very good book, but currently the only thing out there. I saw that Jo Jo is putting out a climbing guide to the Missoula area that will include the Trapper Peak area. On his web site it says the book is due out in September.

Check out this thread http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/677268/page/3#Post677268

Check your pm's

I haven't personally climbed there, but know some people that have. They tell me that it's pretty good. It sounds like they might be coming out with a guide based on the comments on Mountain Project. How do you randomly end up in the middle of the desert in order to drive past this place? Are the other photos from the Lake Mead area?

Rainbow Canyon?

Highly unrecommended. You take your life into your hands everytime you drive through that canyon. The good thing is all the traffic would be going the opposite direction. The bad news is that they're all coming directly at you. I've nearly died several times there.

Awesome tr. It's nice to see some different routes. It really amazes me that there are thousands of unclimbed lines there, yet everyone feels the need to climb the same 10 climbs.

I did the same thing as bonathon on a 6" rip in my ski pants. It worked awesome and held up all season.

Also, check out Mountain Project. The climbers in Scony are pretty active on this board: http://mountainproject.com/v/wisconsin/105708968

I tried to get up there a few weeks ago. The road was gated at the pass though.

I recieved the following e-mail from Jim Earl with the SMCC last week. Hello SW Montana Climbers, We have all been anxiously waiting for the results of our appeal to the Region 1 Forester concerning the Gallatin Travel Management Plan, and how it affects access to the ice in Hyalite Canyon. As reported in March 21st Bozeman Chronicle, all appeals were denied. Truth be told, this was not unexpected since rarely do the Regional decisions reverse the Supervisor despite the strength of any appeal. However, on March 14th the SMCC met again with the Gallatin Forest supervisors, recreation planner, and engineer to discuss the points of our appeal. Of all 112 appellants, which includes motorized users, green groups, and other recreation user groups, I think we were the only ones granted additional meetings with the Forest Service before the release of the Regional Forester’s decision. At this meeting the Forest Supervisor offered a 4-point proposal that we accepted (also covered in the Chronicle, March 15th): 1) The Gallatin Forest has agreed to institute a long-term priority to plow the Hyalite Road beyond the Blackmore Campground, at least to the Chisholm Campground (E. Fork Hyalite Road) area and possibly further. Doing so may require upgrades to the road at some point. 2) Work with ice climbers and other groups to determine "standards" for when it would be appropriate to gate the road. This does not mean just changing the date to after Jan. 1, but actively managing and identifying poor driving conditions under which the road could be closed -- and reopened if conditions improved. As a result, some years the road might be closed in January and others it might be March. It also means working to develop a lot of other alternatives, like signage warning drivers about the conditions of the road, public education, and gate designs to name just a few. 3) They (the Forest Service) intend to move the "snowmobile alternative" route. Instead of starting at Moser Cr. (near Langhor Campground) and circling around the East side of Hyalite, they will designate a route leaving from Blackmore (the dam) and going around the west side of the Hyalite Reservoir. This is a much more logical and direct route, assuming the plowing reaches Blackmore. 4) The Forest Service will hold off implementing the part of the travel plan affecting ice climbers until #2 and #3 above are in place. ------ What does this mean for (getting to) the ice climbing in Hyalite? This is a great step in the right direction. The SMCC is very interested in working with the FS and other groups to keep the Hyalite Road as accessible as possible, for as long as possible into the winter. And we're glad to hear that the Forest Service wants to work with us and the other groups to the same end. If the goal of plowing a long way into Hyalite is achieved, all of the recreational user groups will benefit from the increased access. We have agreed to not file for judicial review as long as the good faith conversations and negotiations are moving forward between climbers and the Forest Service on the 4-part proposal. We will not, however, withdraw our appeal prior to an acceptable settlement. We have built a strong administrative record and have reserved the right to petition the federal courts and contest the travel plan should discussions with the Forest Service fail. The short-term solution of public education, signage, and standards for when the road will be closed will take considerable effort, time and money ALonger term ideas we are also pursuing are to elevate Hyalite to National or Public Recreation Area status, perhaps the nation's first for an ice climbing venue, and improving and plowing the road all the way to Grotto Falls Parking Lot. Pursuing this will be costly and time-consuming, but could result in a permanent solution with vastly improved access season long. Thanks for your help and support on the Hyalite Road issue. Lending your voices in the newspaper, to our elected officials, on montanaice.com, and to other climbers and non-climbers are what has made the difference in this campaign. It is not over yet, not by a long shot, but we are through the first crux. Jim Earl

I'll second the Gold Bond medicated powder (the green bottle).

I'm guessing Straight Shooter on the Brass Wall.

Birdland is pretty sweet. I haven't done the 6th pitch since I heard it wasn't worth it. Plus, there are a bunch of other routes on the Brass Wall that are worth doing.

How was the rock on that side of the buttress? I climbed the left side and it was downright terrifying at times. I have six nuts on my rack from people's rappel stations. I should have taken that as a clue. It also seemed considerably harder than what Brunckhorst has in his guidebook.

I've never heard of any break-ins there. Mutt and Jeff is sweet as jlag said, but it's 5.8, not 5.9. I've heard that the southwest ridge is really good as well. It shares the first pitch of the M&J and then goes to the right of the cyclops eye. It is 5.8 as well. Tiny Tim is good, but it's clipping bolts. Here is a topo of the south face. http://www.firstascentpress.com/pdf/Humbug-sample.pdf 6 is Tiny Tim, 11 is M&J, and 12 is the southwest ridge.