Argus

Looked climbable as of last weekend. There were some big cracks across the face that you'd have to get around. There was about 6" of new snow plastered to the north faces in the area. Also, the road is closed at mile 20 adding to the approach.

Camp 10.2 x 60 for $91 on steepandcheap.com

Get in the Delorean, crank it up to 88mph, and set it for 1985.

The road should be fine. We were up at 3 O'clock last weekend and the road to where it splits with Blueberry Hill road was fine. There are a couple places you'll have to slow down in a low clearance car, but not too bad. From what I recall, you need two ropes to come down Westward Ho.

And then there's shit like this: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/zion_national_park/the_organ/106245710

There is more info here: http://bc.rcmp.ca/ViewPage.action?siteNodeId=50&contentId=6063&position=3&languageId=1

anytime

Beer holder?

Lake Koocanusa = Stone Hill = Eureka I picked up a guide book at Rocky Mountain Outfitters in Kalispell last time I was there. There is some other stuff like Kila Crag in Whitefish, but you're better off going to Eureka.

From your rap photo, it looks like you started way to early. Like you said, go up the Porcupine drainage through the slabs to around 7,000 (maybe more, maybe less-memory hazy). From there, a left leaning 3rd/4th class ramp gains the ridge. It's a lot of 4th/easy 5th class until the ridge steepens, then a couple of pitches of 5.6ish climbing. You have to rap off the southeast spire to the notch and climb a couple more pitches if you want to hit the true summit. We came in from Beverly Creek/4th Creek trail and I think it may be faster. Also, you probably want to hit the slabs of Porcupine Creek as quickly as possible since the travel in that drainage is much quicker than the stuff to the west.

I've seen it numerous times on the plane from Vegas to SLC but never new what it was. Looks pretty cool.

Lots of good info here: http://safeclimbing.com/education.htm

Why 1/2" bolts? 3/8" should be more than strong enough in granite.

I'll give a plug for JoJo's new book: http://www.firstascentpress.com/cirque-guide.html If you prefer a guidebook with less beta, then I'd get: http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Hiking-Wind-River-Mountains/dp/0934641706

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I wouldn't expect it be a cakewalk that time of year. Often that time of year the upper mountain gets plastered with ice and it can be cold as hell. Then again, it could be a cakewalk.

Dreamer is fairly runout runout slab climbing. I'd say the Blueberry Route would be good. The Tree Route in Icicle is easy and not exposed, so it may a good introduction. Also, Catapult to Midway on Castle would be a good choice and the 5.8 is pretty minimal.

She caught you in one of your good moments. A couple of other things. You definitely want 2 60's to get off the south faces of concord and lexington. There were no intermediate stations and you'd have to leave some gear. A cool thing about this climb is you can do most of the climbing without a pack. You can leave the packs at the bottom of Liberty Bell, SEWS, and NEWS since you return to the base of the climb. You only have to carry over on Concord and Lexington.

In college I delivered pizzas and it was -70 for a week straight with the windchill. I didn't shut my car off for the entire week. I made bank since noone would leave their house. The following day it "warmed up" to 0 and I was running around in a t-shirt. It's amazing how the body can adjust.

Go check out T-wall in Chattanooga. That place is outstanding.

Check your pm's

Backcountrydog, I guess my post came across as I personally have a problem with the bolt, which I don't. It seemed warranted and well located. I was just answering the "what's the problem" question everyone was asking or at least what I think the OP is getting at.

I think the new bolt on the bottom is the problem.

The low spot is still there. I couldn't tell if they fixed it or if it's smoothing out from traffic, but it didn't seem to bad. There was no water running over the road except at the paved creek.

Builder - that low spot didn't seem to be too bad. I'm pretty sure you could get by it with a 2wd no problem. We didn't drive up to Exfoliation Dome. We were able to get a 1/2 mile past the 3:00 TH, but I was willing to drag branches down the side of my car and drive over some shit. Dreamer was climbable yesterday, with a few small water streaks here and there. A little bit of snow remained in the gully up to the rock. Anyone know when the last time the road past the 3:00 TH was cleared? It seems to be in pretty good shape otherwise. Needtoclimb- I think you forgot your dog bowl at the TH. We were going to grab it, but figured someone might be back for it.