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Lots of the Canucks in the early 2000's in central Ontario (Thunder Bay area - check it out, some of the best ice and mixed climbing there is) were climbing with TWO full size adzes. We used to give them a lot of shit for that. But it did help with snow removal on lower-angled ice climbs. I have the new Cobras and after using one tool with the full size hammer and one w/ the micro hammer, decided I prefer the full size hammer better. More natural, efficient swing for me - but I'm a basher, so I like the added head-weight. Try them both, see what you like. And yes, the micro hammer sucks for pins, but it works.

So are you using a dremel, or something else to remove material when reshaping picks, or just hand files of one sort or another? I've used a dremel with good luck sharpening the teeth of screws, but its tricky to make sure not to mess with the temper. I've seen angle grinders used on picks to make major alterations, but I personally don't subscribe. You do great work; if I wasn't a stickler about doing it myself, I'd be sending it your way.

Dane, What tools are you using? Curious, since you cut the teeth back quite a ways on the picks - that looks more complicated than simply using a straight or chainsaw file. thanks

i have the same problem with mine. And those little clips along the inside of the tent body don't work worth a damn to keep the poles in place. It does help if the thing is staked out well, but that isn't always an option.

if synthetic, boil water, fill a water bottle and roll up your bag with the bottle in the middle. I've dried out soaking wet bags/jackets this way.

Does anyone know "tymebldr"? No offense, but your posts seem suspect. "clips"? Are you even a climber? the court "made" you hire counsel? Courts don't "make" people hire attorneys. You are free to represent yourself. What was the charge? Who was your attorney? Did you plead guilty? To what? If not, was there a trial? Who else was ticketed, charged with you? You weren't climbing alone when you were ticketed at the time I assume? Who was your judge? I smell a rat.

Perhaps your buddy could have picked his muffler off the road when it fell off instead of leaving it in the middle of the road for someone else to clean up after him. dumbass. The road is in good condition. There are a lot of dips in the upper part of the road put in by the road crews to divert water. I would advise against passenger cars - you need decent clearance to get over some of them.

I think from here on out all trip report titles should end with "Biatch!"

Hey John - I thought you were gonna post some condition reports and photos? We know you've been out there....but where are you now?

One of the best ice climbers in the world got started while living in Chicago - so its possible to get into it from there. Already mentioned are Governor Dodge and Starved Rock. There is also some old privately owned quarry in WI somewhere, but the owner charges an outrageous fee to use it. But basically you need to get up to Lake Superior (UP of MIchigan and North Shore) and Minnesota to find anything consistent. Check out climbingcentral.com for local conditions and events, like the Sandstone ice fest, Michigan Ice fest and Nipigon Ice fest. I think there might be another fest on the northeast shore of Superior as well. The best climbing is along the north shore of lake superior around thunder bay and nipigon (canada) - which is a haul for you, but people do it regularly. You just need to get on with some of them. You might have better luck finding climbers out of madison. good luck. donnie (formerly of Minnesota...)

John, I don't know my #s for your initial questions, but a couple things come to mind reading the other posts. I don't think pull ups or body weight or whatever really apply across the board for ice climbing ability. I know big guys, like close to Marcus' height but bigger all around, who climb WI6, M8 trad. I also know guys who climb as hard or harder who probably couldn't put more than three pullups together, whether its because they are overweight or scrawny as hell. I just don't see ice climbing as fitting any one particular stereotype or body type. In that sense it differs somewhat from rock climbing. I agree that for most of us, being lighter, proportionately stronger and fitter makes us better climbers (myself included), but i've seen enough people who defy this "logic" that I don't buy it beyond a certain point. I think experience, improved technique, the right mental attitude and natural ability will take certain people further than being strong or losing 5 extra pounds ever will. I have none of those natural attributes, so my only hope for getting better is losing weight and getting stronger and fitter - none of which are likely to happen any time soon given my current work situation. I will agree though, if you're just as strong 10 lbs lighter, it can't possibly hurt your climbing. But for as strong as you are, unless you've put on a ton of weight since I last saw you, I don't see your weight affecting in any significant way your ice climbing level this winter. If it does, its probably all in your head. my 2 cents. Donnie

What's the approx mileage for the whole thing?

There was a party of two about 1/2 way up Serpentine yesterday (tuesday, July 1) when the hail/rain/thunder storm hit. You guys get off the route ok? We couldn't find you on the face when the storm cleared.

I need to learn how to spell.....

Anyone been up there recently? Thanks

what kind of camera are you shooting with?

Anyone interested for this coming weekend? Sounds like it's in great condition right now. PM me Donnie

Were the bikes worth having? How far is it from the bridge to the trailhead? thanks

I second that about Frank. I'm also looking to get out for midweek jaunts. Usually just day stuff, but depends on work schedule. Alpine, ice, rock, whatever. Donnie donniekolb@gmail.com

that TR is from 2007.......

dude, next time use smaller photos....but thanks for posting

Looking for someone to climb with this weekend. I probably only have time for a day trip (yeah, work sucks). Willing to drive to teiton, smith, vantage, etc. Even for the day. Prefer easy to moderate trad (5.6-5.9), but willing to do whatever to get out. PM me Donnie

If you're in the portland area, I've worked with an excellent PT who has helped me rehab back from shoulder surgery, hip surgery and patellar femoral pain (pain behind my kneecap from it not tracking properly - similar to what some of you have descibed on here). He runs his own clinic and deals primarily with althletes. His name is Erik Meira, here's his website: http://eliteptsportsmed.stcnetsite.com/

One tip for the Android leashes is to use double sided velcro to attach the lower part of the leash instead of the hose clamp that comes with them. If you leave it just loose enough, it can slide easily towards the head of the tool. That way you can stay leashed in on lower angled terrain (otherwise its hard to actually grasp the top of the tool when leashed up). Also, I love the old cobras for all things alpine. I just got a set of the new cobras. They are great for mixed and ice, haven't tried them on alpine yet.

Hey! Where've you been? I think tim said you were in Utah? Actually, I dont know if I can climb with Tim anymore. First he puts up a photo that makes my route look really easy, then follows it with a photo of his route where he comments on how steep it was.....that's just dirty.