pdk

Arcteryx Alpha SV Jacket. Barely used. About 4 years old $150. Size medium.

Is this stuff you are producing? You've been mums about the new Aremet picks. What's the status?

CASCADECLIMBERS.com

There are MANY TRs for the North Ridge on this site. Judicious use of the search tool should produce what you are looking for without re-hashing the same old stuff over again.

presumably WA first reply is from OR typical cc.com That's ok - we have better mixed climbing down here anyhow.... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/925973/Searchpage/1/Main/71362/Words/deer+hunter/Search/true/Gorge_Ice_2009#Post925973

Joe - my understanding is that you are wrong (no offense of course). Half ropes are not to be used as twins - for the same reason that single ropes are not to be used as twins - the impact forces are too high when you combine the two ropes together as twins. Really, neither half ropes nor twins should be used as the other - UNLESS - you have ropes that are rated as both. There are several rope manufacturers that make ropes that meet the ratings for twin AND half. I might be wrong, but at least the internets agree. http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=8&type=gearguy

Do some internet research on "twin" ropes and that should give you your answer. Some ropes meet the standards to be both twins and doubles/half ropes. But otherwise, they are not interchangeable.

really? We went up on the 23rd to do the north face and got turned back by knee to thigh deep postholing. Nice work.

Mile O quoted me at 69. Asked for a "multi-day discount" (we stayed 4 nights), got it at 60. It was slow - christmas. 4Pines quoted 75, wouldn't budge on the multiple night thing.

Much thanks guys.

Spacing on the name of the place everyone stays at in Lillooet... anyone?

I believe in the case I'm referring to - yes, the injured person was saved as a direct result of timely initiating the rescue. I recall it being major injuries and the person simply could not have "crawl[ed] off that hill". I'll look for the link, but it got a very detailed write up on CC.com. http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/pickets/southernpickets2#fullstory I'm certainly not advocating PLB's be required....just that they can be useful. I don't carry one.

This same question has been running through my head ever since the MLU discussion first came up. It seems like PLB / MLU's are great if your lost and need someone to find you, but I have yet to here of a climbing rescue where "lost" is the problem. It's usually, rockfall, icefall, crevasses fall, avalanche, or a significant climber fall all of which involved a major trauma. That coupled with the fact that climbing rescues take many hours after the rescue is initated at best, and days if the weather isn't cooperative, and anything that would be life threatening in the front country is likely fatal. There were several rescues that happened this summer that were reported on this website. One in particular was initiated by a cell phone call from the top of a nearby peak - if I recall the details. However, I also recall them considering it lucky that they were able to make the call to initiate the rescue. I assume in these cases a PLB would have been useful - but I'd be curious to hear from those involved what they think about carrying a PLB.

Dane, Any updates on the status of your new picks?

What size foot? I have a brand spankin' new pair of the Koflach Artis Expe w/ two sets of inner boots (one set is the super warm ones). I don't recall the size, but its around a 12. Would check the sizing if interested.

A rep from the Mazamas was on TV last night (forget what station). He did a stand up job outlining the issues and why PLB shouldn't be required.

The reality is the only possible law that has been discussed that has ANY teeth is the "Search & rescue reimbursement when MLU is not used". A requirement mandating use of a MLU? It'd be a joke. No agency has the funds to enforce that in any meaningful way. (And obviously I was kidding KWEB......sheesh)

I'm not saying we never rescue someone 'cause they don't have a PLB. Obviously, if the injured person's location is known, rescue them, but all means. I think everyone would do the same. SAR: Do you have a PLB. Injured Climber: A what? SAR: Sorry sir, but we're gonna have to leave you here. We're not authorized to rescue you. Have a nice day

Exactly. Which is why lots of people choose not to carry a PLB - myself included.

You might be right....I'm not saying a agree with it. But here's the logic - Isn't the argument against using a PLB that of self-sufficiency - that you, and you alone, take on the risks of your climb, and therefore chose not to carry a PLB? If you expect to be rescued if you get in trouble, then what basis does one have for not being required to carry a PLB? I guess I'd like to hear the rationale for those who DON'T carry a PLB but EXPECT to get rescued if the shit hits the fan.

Rather than outright regulation requiring a MLU/PLB, why not simply require one as a condition before SAR gets involved? If no MLU/PLB signal, no rescue would be organized.

So you pull that jobber out every time you clean a screw and scrub away? There are simple ways to clean screws that require no fancy tools - actually no tools are needed whatsoever, fancy or otherwise....

Jeebus. Where the hell is that?

OMC has BD stuff at 20% off. Ice screws too. Get 'em while it's cold....

there was no one on it yesterday afternoon.....thin but in.