pdk

This same question has been running through my head ever since the MLU discussion first came up. It seems like PLB / MLU's are great if your lost and need someone to find you, but I have yet to here of a climbing rescue where "lost" is the problem. It's usually, rockfall, icefall, crevasses fall, avalanche, or a significant climber fall all of which involved a major trauma. That coupled with the fact that climbing rescues take many hours after the rescue is initated at best, and days if the weather isn't cooperative, and anything that would be life threatening in the front country is likely fatal. There were several rescues that happened this summer that were reported on this website. One in particular was initiated by a cell phone call from the top of a nearby peak - if I recall the details. However, I also recall them considering it lucky that they were able to make the call to initiate the rescue. I assume in these cases a PLB would have been useful - but I'd be curious to hear from those involved what they think about carrying a PLB.

Dane, Any updates on the status of your new picks?

What size foot? I have a brand spankin' new pair of the Koflach Artis Expe w/ two sets of inner boots (one set is the super warm ones). I don't recall the size, but its around a 12. Would check the sizing if interested.

A rep from the Mazamas was on TV last night (forget what station). He did a stand up job outlining the issues and why PLB shouldn't be required.

The reality is the only possible law that has been discussed that has ANY teeth is the "Search & rescue reimbursement when MLU is not used". A requirement mandating use of a MLU? It'd be a joke. No agency has the funds to enforce that in any meaningful way. (And obviously I was kidding KWEB......sheesh)

I'm not saying we never rescue someone 'cause they don't have a PLB. Obviously, if the injured person's location is known, rescue them, but all means. I think everyone would do the same. SAR: Do you have a PLB. Injured Climber: A what? SAR: Sorry sir, but we're gonna have to leave you here. We're not authorized to rescue you. Have a nice day

Exactly. Which is why lots of people choose not to carry a PLB - myself included.

You might be right....I'm not saying a agree with it. But here's the logic - Isn't the argument against using a PLB that of self-sufficiency - that you, and you alone, take on the risks of your climb, and therefore chose not to carry a PLB? If you expect to be rescued if you get in trouble, then what basis does one have for not being required to carry a PLB? I guess I'd like to hear the rationale for those who DON'T carry a PLB but EXPECT to get rescued if the shit hits the fan.

Rather than outright regulation requiring a MLU/PLB, why not simply require one as a condition before SAR gets involved? If no MLU/PLB signal, no rescue would be organized.

So you pull that jobber out every time you clean a screw and scrub away? There are simple ways to clean screws that require no fancy tools - actually no tools are needed whatsoever, fancy or otherwise....

Jeebus. Where the hell is that?

OMC has BD stuff at 20% off. Ice screws too. Get 'em while it's cold....

there was no one on it yesterday afternoon.....thin but in.

How was the ice up above where you bailed? Any photos? Thanks

Does this require fording the river? Or am I thinking of something else out that way?

If you're gonna post here on conditions, will you take some photos? While I enjoyed your videos, it's really hard to tell what shape the ice is in... thanks!

go do a full recon of both OR and WA sides, and email the results to me and only me. thanks

Word travels fast.... and it will again this weekend......

I'm looking for a high res photo of the NORTH side of I-rock to use as a topo. You will get nothing except my eternal gratitude, and a beer.... Thanks Donnie

how much are they? I can't seem to find that info anywhere on this thread

Here are a few I had bookmarked http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2009/11/20/training-1/ http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2009/09/random-training-thoughts-1.html (there are 4 or 5 of these on Gadd's site, hence the #1 next to the title) http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/ten_ideas_on_how_to_hone_you_alpine_psyche/ http://blog.thaczuk.com/?p=124 (this last one was the one that hit home the most for me)

I recently "discovered" many of the blogs the "top" climbers maintain. Many have interesting bits on training, climbing harder, etc. The consistent theme amongst them all is if you want to become a better climber, you need to climb A LOT - and focus less on "training". If you aren't climbing hard 2-3 times a week, than the "training" (whether it amounts to weight lifting, crossfit, etc.) is not necessarily worthless, but is less effective at making you a stronger climber than if you just climbed a lot. Optimally, you'd climb hard 2-3 times a week and add you "training" on top of that. I'll find some of the articles and post them. Interesting stuff.

It that you boys on Cryophobia from Saturday? Blue Moon? Hmmm, gonna have to look into that, never heard of it - looks excellent. (and yes, I-rock photo above)

some local mixed stoke

That was last year's fest that was cancelled. It'll be on again this year.