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Looking for someone to do some easy trad with this weekend, 5.9 and under. You can climb harder if you want, but that's what I'm hoping to get done. Prefer climbing both sat and sun over just one day. Smith? Vantage? other? I'm in portland, can drive where ever. PM me. Donnie

That's what I figured I'd hear - but I didn't want to be presumptuous. If they don't get replaced before next winter, I will gladly do it. Since you sound like you're in the know, are there bolts on the tops of other routes up there? What about the summit? I just happened to find those by sheer luck - a bit of tat was sticking out of the rime. Thanks

Trip: Illumination Rock - Mt. Hood - Date: 5/3/2008 Trip Report: Saturday was the second time in three weeks that we made the trek up to I-rock to do some mixed climbing. I'd never climbed on it before. Now that I'm in the know - I'd highly recommend it to everyone - it has stellar alpine mixed routes, from fairly moderate to desperately hard, with lots of varied, engaging climbing. Trip #1: Tim/Crackman, his friend Laura and I headed out the weekend of horrible winter weather (April 20), the one sandwiched between great sunny weather. It kept almost everyone away from the mountain. I think we were the only suckers above the top of the Palmer. With the GPS crapping out on us right from the start, we used map and compass to get us to I-rock through the whiteout. I won the toss for the first lead. The route we did started on teh south side near the saddle, went up a couple short mixed sections with ice up corners and excellent drytooling to reach the ridge. From there, it traversed over to a steep crack. Fortunately there was just enough ice in the crack for it to go. You can see Tim just above it near the belay. The belay consisted of two bolts buried in ice. I didn't dare dig them out - it was our only option for gear/bailing and I didn't want to know how mankey they were. Tim wanted to try and top out (we were very close to the summit), but he couldn't find a way through the rime. We bailed. Trip #2 This time it was just Tim and I and the weather was warm and sunny. We ran into a couple camping at the saddle who helped us over in a brief whiteout. South Side of I-rock: This time we dropped down onto the north side. Conditions were fairly whiteout, so we took the first cool-looking line we found. It was Tim's pitch, and he styled his way through an early mixed section to a ramp of solid alpine ice. (note- there is a LOT of foreshortening going on in this photo. A full 60m pitch brought us fairly close to the summit block seen in the photo) The line we chose ended up converging with the line we did a couple weeks previous and we ended at the same bolt station. It was obvious that things had melted out a lot since our last visit. Fortunately, this opened up a crack system towards the summit. I declined the lead, as I was nervous about how to bail from the rime-covered slabby summit. Tim made a go of it, but ultimately bailed close to the summit block. Again, I would highly recommend I-rock during the winter. The mixed climbing is very high quaility. There was not much in the way of good ice gear, but there are enough cracks to get good rock pro when you need it. Donnie BTW, I posted about replacing some bolts on I-rock in a seperate thread. If you've got anything to say about it, please contribute - I have no idea what the local ethics dictate for something like that. Thanks Gear Notes: Mixed rack, stubbies

A couple of us have become enamored with the mixed climbing on I-rock (which is excellent). Luckily, we located a couple bolts near the summit that we've been rapping off of. One is an old, rusty 1/4" that you could probably pull out by hand. The other isn't much better. I'd like to add a new bolt or two next time I'm up there (likely not until next winter - conditions have deteriotated significantly over the past couple weeks). Is there any consensus on local ethics for bolting on I-rock? Does the wilderness status preclude new bolting? I'd appreciate some feedback. Thanks Donnie

Despite all the harmless bickering, thanks for the list. I've got some more climbs to add to mine. Only one I can think of to add: This House of Sky - C. Rockies

Anyone know conditions of the Midway Loop Road for access to the north side routes? I know the south side is usually snowed in very late into the season (especially this season I suspect), but I've never been on the north side until late season. Thanks for any info you've got.

excellent, thanks. Looking about like I'd hoped. We were up the weekend before and the climbing was great - lots of good ice in the cracks even though the rime was shite (redundant?). It just took some digging to find the good stuff.

Anyone have any recent photos of I-rock? Either side. Curious how conditions have changed over the last couple weeks and whether there's any ice on the north side. thanks

Anyone have any recent photos of I-rock? Either side. Curious how conditions have changed over the last couple weeks and whether there's any ice on the north side. thanks

About me and who I'm looking for Wow. I never thought I'd ever find myself doing this. But it's just so hard to meet people these days. Usually you meet people at work or through friends, but that just isn't working. And I'm just not into the bar scene anymore. I know it's cliche, but I love long walks in the woods. I'm fit. I have a fair amount of free time. And I'm highly motivated and committed. I like rocks. But I like ice better. Especially in the mountains. I've got a fair amount of experience, but I certainly don't know everything and am no hard man. Yet? You - well, you better be at least reasonably fit. I'm not into cults, but I guess you can crossfit. Just don't expect me to. You know enough about climbing not to get killed, and maybe you know a lot. I'm more interested in someone willing to get after it, is motivated to climb a lot, and has the time/ability to do that. You're also willing to suffer, 'cause you know that's where the fun's at. About me hair: brown eyes: brown best feature: my small feminine hands body art: one strategically placed tattoo sports and exercise: climbing, all types; road biking; skiing exercise habits: as much as possible daily diet: I eat my veggies interests: Ptarmagin Ridge, Triple Couloirs, Stuart Glacier Headwall, Mt. Waddington, West Ridge of Hunter, West Rib of Denali, Canadian Rockies, North Cascades, North Ridge of Stuart, Adams Glacier, etc., etc. About my date hair: any eyes: any body type: fit drink: definitely relationships: single, divorced, open relationship have kids: hopefully not want kids: no time soon turn-ons: cold snaps, sharping tools, driving, caffeine, border crossings turn-offs: south sides, dropped gear, careers, not chipping in for gas In my own words In all seriousness, I'm tired of fucking around. I've been half-assing this climbing thing for years now. Getting out in short spurts, starting to get somewhere and then something gets in the way. The most frustrating is maintaining consistent and motivated partners who have similar interests. I know everyone has a real life, but I'm tired of losing partners to wives, kids, careers, etc. Its time to put up, and shut up for me. I got into climbing because of the mountains. I lost sight of that somewhere along the way and the cragging became an end in and of itself. I want to get back into the mountains. Climb as much possible, and work towards Alaska and the Canadian Rockies. Realistically, I'm looking for a group of people who are sincerely motivated to climb. I don't care if you don't have much experience. I'm not going to teach you how to use crampons and swing a tool. You already know how to do that. But I'll take motivation over skill any day. I've spent years climbing with people who climb much harder than me, and while I've gotten to do some great stuff, I didn't do any of it personally, and I've missed out on all the intermediate stuff necessary for my own development. Until I can do it myself, I'm done with that. If you're interested, PM me. We'll get out. Somewhere. Soon. My only limit is no south sides. I've put in my time slogging. I'm open to anything else. Your match, Donnie

My main thought after reading this thread: there sure are a lot of you who've taken whippers leading ice.

What's the scale in that photo (how tall is the ice)?

here are some gorge ice photos for an idea of conditions - compliments of channel 8 news http://www.kgw.com/perl/common/slideshow/sspop.pl?recid=7610&nextimage=4

Don - Thanks for the great advice. We had a fantastic trip: perfect weather, lots of ice, etc., etc. It got a little crowded over the weekend, but that just meant we got up a little earlier. I'll definitely be going back soon. And thanks to the Canucks we met at Oregon Jack on Sunday - we owe you for letting us take the first run up. Hope the rest of your trip went well. Donnie

Thanks Don, I appreciate you humoring me. In exchange, i just picked up your guidebook. I hope some of those royalties end up in your pocket.... Cheers

Anyone have any recent conditions info for Lillooet, or somewhere good to check the weather/conditions there? I'm ignorant, having never been up there before, so thanks. Also, can we do it with the 2 wheel drive car or do we need the 4x4 truck for access to the climbs. thanks for the help. Donnie

Does anyone have any recommendations on good avy courses in the NW? Preferably in the portland area, but I'd drive for something worthwhile.

check my posting in the other string about local conditions... I give a half assed response to your question.

I was up messing around near Strobach Mountain thursday (dec 13). The Watchtower area looks about like it does in the guidebook. I didn't make it up to where the other climbs were located, so I can't comment on conditions except to note that its cold enough for it and there was ice elsewhere. The road is passable to the bushwack if you have 4/AWD. I didn't, so my recon trip got cut a little short. Or long. or whatever....

A few of us were on the north side of hood this weekend. The road is closed, adding 2-3 miles each way. Neither the north face nor the eliot glacier headwall are in. But the bottoms of the lower crevasses are full of snow, making for some good, safe bouldering on the seracs.

The spur is in decent shape, You might have to pick and weave a little to connect the snow, but it looked good from the base.

Yeah, Mt Hood is a death trap, stay away.... whatever. Leutholds, Ried Glacier headwall are usually good that time of year and are fairly moderate. Sandy headwall is a bit more committing as far as distance and objective danger. Cooper Spur can be a nice alternative to the south side, just be careful on the decent.

As of this past weekend, none of the north face routes are in, including the eliot headwall. We need more precip up there first. I didn't take a camera with, so I have no photos, but there are a few significant sections of rock on each gully and very little of anything on the headwall.

thanks for the photos everyone. Keep em coming if you get more. It looks like the routes need some time to shape up.

OOOOO - thanks. Looks like it probably needs a little work before it's in. But we might head up this weekend anyways.