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How was the ice up above where you bailed? Any photos? Thanks

Does this require fording the river? Or am I thinking of something else out that way?

If you're gonna post here on conditions, will you take some photos? While I enjoyed your videos, it's really hard to tell what shape the ice is in... thanks!

go do a full recon of both OR and WA sides, and email the results to me and only me. thanks

Word travels fast.... and it will again this weekend......

I'm looking for a high res photo of the NORTH side of I-rock to use as a topo. You will get nothing except my eternal gratitude, and a beer.... Thanks Donnie

how much are they? I can't seem to find that info anywhere on this thread

Here are a few I had bookmarked http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2009/11/20/training-1/ http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2009/09/random-training-thoughts-1.html (there are 4 or 5 of these on Gadd's site, hence the #1 next to the title) http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/ten_ideas_on_how_to_hone_you_alpine_psyche/ http://blog.thaczuk.com/?p=124 (this last one was the one that hit home the most for me)

I recently "discovered" many of the blogs the "top" climbers maintain. Many have interesting bits on training, climbing harder, etc. The consistent theme amongst them all is if you want to become a better climber, you need to climb A LOT - and focus less on "training". If you aren't climbing hard 2-3 times a week, than the "training" (whether it amounts to weight lifting, crossfit, etc.) is not necessarily worthless, but is less effective at making you a stronger climber than if you just climbed a lot. Optimally, you'd climb hard 2-3 times a week and add you "training" on top of that. I'll find some of the articles and post them. Interesting stuff.

It that you boys on Cryophobia from Saturday? Blue Moon? Hmmm, gonna have to look into that, never heard of it - looks excellent. (and yes, I-rock photo above)

some local mixed stoke

That was last year's fest that was cancelled. It'll be on again this year.

Nipigon is hard to get to, but clinics are free.... http://www.nipigonicefest.com/

Thanks for the I-rock photo and recent update. Much appreciated

Got any photos of the north side of I rock? Much appreciated....

Personally, I hate all the new tools. I hate that every couple of years they improve things to the point that I feel obligated to shell out $600+ on a shiny new set of tools - cause really, you're going to climb that route on those old things? I guess you could...... I remember when the first generation of carbon fiber cobras came out. Everything instantly felt 1/2 grade easier. It felt like cheating. Now I'd posit that everything would feel a full grade easier compared to the "good old days" (which were NOT that long ago). Eventually the tools will catch up with my lack of technique and fitness to the point I will never have to back off another ice or mixed climb for fear it's beyond my abilities. Great analysis Dane, even if it makes me want to puke at the thought of buying another set of ice tools to sit in my closet and get used irregularly.

I'd toss the Mountain Hardwear +45 Phantom into the mix. Had it for a year, used it a lot. I'd recommend it. Weighs 17 ozs, about the same as the rest. Got it on sale, so it was the obvious choice over the others mentioned.

What kind of quality control or testing do you plan on doing, if any?

I like it. I found it was about the same price to buy all the parts to make my own as it was to get the BD one, so I went with the slick, pre-made option.

Why limit yourself to the fusions or nomics? The BD Cobras are fantastic for everything but pure m-climbing. and they can easily be outfitted with a full size hammer (that's how I roll). This eliminates the need to carry a third tool altogether....

Got any photos of the Eliot headwall? Conditions looked good - i expected slush w/ the high temps up there thanks for posting pics

Dusty and no shade - I'd attribute those to the fact that it's in the desert. Not much they could do about those two. They do now have running water, which is a nice change from the old military tank of hot, foul water they used to have. $10/night is middle of the road for camping prices. Showers would be great.

Sprint service seems to work nowhere. I had no service at all on the eliot (hood)- buddy w/ At&t had full bars.

So what are the beefs with the RR campground? Other than the nazi-camground host - GIVE ME THE MONEY! - I've never had any problems with it.

was the whole upper mountain covered in a sheet of ice? Looks like it from the pics. If so, that's going to make for some interesting avi conditions at some point. nice work - you boys hit the good weather window.