yikes

3 condoms seems excessive. Save weight by only bringing one and reusing. ... Light is right!

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I find the Kramar guide a little difficult to follow sometimes. I'm confused about the area around the first pitch of Bombs away and Wingspan in the gully that leads up to Straight St. I've been through there twice in the last couple of weeks and still can't figure out if Wingspan is the route highest in the gully that starts in a book and crests a lip to a bolted slab. Lower down, there is a route that starts in a right-arching hand crack, traverses right around a bulge and then goes straight up finishing on an arete. Is that P1 Bombs away or is it on the next arete to climbers left. While I'm at it, when your standing in the gully that leads up to Urban Nomads and Slice of Ice and you look uphill and left there is a splitter 2/3 camalot crack leading to ledge and another (harder?) splitter/flake. Anyone know what that is? I know pictures would probably help. I'll drag the camera up next time. Climb on. Jason

Ya, but she loosened it up for you

FWIW. I simul-rapped 20+ pitches of Infinite Bliss on a single strand of a fairly new PMI Verglass (8.1mm, ~5.5lbs per 60m). I used an ATC guide and two pearabiners. I wore gloves but I didn't need a death grip or anything unusual. I weigh ~175lbs and had no issues except some snarlage. YMMV.

I did the Plummer to Unicorn section of the Tatoosh traverse. I didn't feel comfortable enough to summit Castle (loose/chossy) but I had no trouble up and down on Unicorn. The 5th class is brief though exposed.

5.easy .... I wish.

PM'd ya.

This may be helpful http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=6483

SPL/Sayar and I did IB Fri/Sat. We bivied atop 6 and continue to the top on Sat. SPL/Sayar is a safe and competent partner. Thanks for a good climb! Jason

http://www.sri.com/rd/electroadhesion.html#clamping

Moderators please remove this thread. That stoke is so hot it's liable to catch my laptop on fire. Super Rad! I'm forwarding this TR to all my partners.

Cool send and stunning pics Wayne. !!

Doesn't matter too much but just in case you're trying to figure out who I am. PM me for a phone number or you can just give it to Gabe. I think you'll remember him. I think you guys talked about replacing hardware on Terminal Preppie, etc. BTW, nice f***in send on Natural Log Cabin! Jason

So, I'd guess that means FS#49 NF Sauk River Rd is open? I was under the impression that it was closed at mile 0 from the FS website. Also, any beta on Sloan? Thanks, Jason

+1

I have 15 - 10 ft section of a light used Beal rope. Buyer pay shipping from Canada. Thank for look.

Just found Clyde soles spreadsheet on my computer. Here it is uploaded as a google doc, soles_slcd_stats .

Geek out on this article at summitpost. Unfortunately, this analysis doesn't include Tech friends. ...OR... Clyde Soles used to have a detailed list but that link (http://www.clydesoles.com/Front/Camssize.html) appears to be down for the moment. Here is a screen capture of the relevant info. from a cached copy that my browser had stored.

Ken (112) and I left Seattle at 5p on Friday and slept in the back of his truck at the Blue Lake Trail Head. Approach conditions were mostly good with a firm crust and decent bootpack. There was some snow on route and we descended via the S Arete and back to our pack in rock shoes. The deproach was easy with creamy plunge steps and the occasional glissade. Afterward we stopped in at Ski-in for some beers and dinner. Sunday AM we ran up Prime Rib in Mazama and headed home. Good times. The Liberty Bell group is ready. Go get some. Liberty Bell group The approach The route I think Ken is solar powered. Busy day above the Blue Lake TH Gearing up for the hug Who's the man Bluebirds everywhere

Yep, good times. Thanks again Dave for the fire and the killer campsite. Jason

I've been known to deuce out on route, aka factor 2. I just hope my anchor is solid. Also, in my experience it helps if you have a lot of rope out.

Ramuta. You can ship your shoes for free from VW-Seattle if you want.

When I was there on Sat, there were people patrolling traffic through the gate on the bypass around the mudslide. The sign claims that the projected date for finishing the clearing of the slide is this Fri, the 27th.

Check out the Alpine Cock Ring. Looks good on paper though I haven't had a chance to use it. Low budget and more versatile. Long discussion thread on Mountain Project if you're interested. www.paulraphaelson.com/downloads/acr.pdf