jordansahls

From a recent review article "Grade I and II strains are treated conservatively with rest, ice packs, relative immobilization, compression, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, and analgesics as needed. In the first 3 to 5 days the goal of treatment is control of hemorrhage, edema, and pain. Progressive ambulation is begun when swelling and tenderness begin to subside, assisted with crutches until pain-free walking is possible. Gentle painless stretching should be initiated. Strengthening is progressed as long as it remains pain-free (starting with isometric exercise, then progressing to isokinetic). Jogging and running are increased as tolerated. Return to competition is permitted after full recovery from the injury" Here is the link: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22894694 Also, here is an excellent article by Mike Boyle (one of the premier strength coaches in the world): http://www.strengthcoach.com/public/2127.cfm

Wow, that looks amazing. Me likey.

I think the wingspan was around 3 feet. I was actually very surprised at the feel around Ketchum which was mostly pleasant. You can tell there is money in the area, but there are a large number of decent folks and a good local culture. Certainly nothing like Vail or Aspen which both had a super ritzy douche feel. Still, it was my first time to the area so I could have missed something.

Trip: Sun Valley, Idaho - Morgan ridge Date: 12/30/2013 Trip Report: A group of us (five total) drove to Ketchum to partake in some good old fashion New Years debauchery. We also decided it would be an excellent time to take advantage of the perfect terrain and lushes pow. First time skiing in Idaho. I have to say, it was absolutely amazing! Cold dry temps, lots of sun during the days, and amazing powder to ski. That's a win, win, win. The access and quality of the skiing was so amazing that a friend and I joked about it being too easy (you mean we don't have to bushwack, tree hop, road skin, stream cross, jungle gym, or sink up to our waists to access perfect pow?) Can't wait to go back. Hooligans on parade Lines everywhere! Working up the ridge New Years eve coors break The cycle of life Getting closer Ridge traverse paradise So this is why they call it Sun Valley Our line down (ridge in the center) Gear Notes: Sun screen, skis, music, the usual stuff Approach Notes: Drive

No. There are plenty of skiers on this board who appreciate these types of trip reports, I know I do.

God damn, this just shows how out of touch the conservatives are these days. Their answer to winning the next election? Be more conservative. How does that old Einstein quote go? Oh yeah... "Insanity is doing the same thing, over and over again, but expecting different results"

All good info. I also think it's important to not overdo the crimps. The forces on the finger pulleys are 36 times higher in a crimp vs. open. That just astonishes me.

Very intersting Sol, I hadn't considered the offloading idea for the smaller/weaker digits. I have been reading a little bit of literature on the forearm strength/endurance subject (Trying to come up with a thesis) and apparantly the traditional measure of strenght to weight isn't as great a yard stick for rock climbers as it is in other, more traditional sports. However I have read that the handgrip strength to weight ration is the "new" yardstick for elite/competative/serious rock climbers. Still, it can't hurt to have a high strength to weight ratio.

Sol and Rad, I would be interested to hear about your hangboard protocols (If and when you do use them) for forearm strength and endurance. I understand that you both have probably been training a bit, so your volume and intensity are going to be much higher than the beginner. Even still I'm curious.

"the right attitude with one arm beats the wrong attitude with two arms every time" Now that is one of the best quotes I have ever heard.

Don't you mean the South ridge? Or am I mistaken?

Out of coffee this morning?

I grew up in the Lutheran church, and ascribed to the bible for many years. It wasn't until about a few years ago that I started having my doubts. I find it funny that I could have conversations among my Christian friends that seemed so logical, but now i can't participate in their conversations really because they only work if everyone buys into the same basic faith system. It has amazed me how many assumptions I made. Now, I just don't talk about it with those people, many of whom are still my friends. I just don't want to have to deal with people 1.) Trying to save me, and 2.) morning me as a lost sheep. It's obviously still a progression, and I am far from certain on what I believe. I am not an atheist, probably much more of an agnostic. It just resonated with me what Tvash said about believers not being able to imagine not believing. That was me for a long time. I guess things change.

You people do realize that the weather is still nice outside (at least for a few more days)? Jebus, can't we save these types of pointless, semantical arguments for that wonderful time of year when the weather turns a ghastly shade of grey and we all slowly go insane from vitamin D deficiency, cabin fever and slow drowning by rain?

I second checking out Dave MacLeod's website. Not only is he a world class climber, he also holds a masters degree in sports science. Seriously, his web site is a great resource, check it out.

Yeah, basically the bergshrund on the Taboo glacier that touches the south face of Torment is super sketchy mid-late season. Last year I climbed Torment via the NW ridge and descended via the South face. The rappel off the face onto the glacier was very sketchy. The snow recedes back a significant distance from the wall and, at the time, required swinging out and off the end of the rope (we had a single rope). As far as climbing goes, the SW ridge isn't much of a ridge. You climb up to the ridge and then scramble on the west side until you can cross over onto the south face. You are never really "on" the ridge. Still, I liked this route because it is fairly straight forward.

The bivy ledge is very large with multiple spots to sleep. There seems to be 1 really good spot but there were a handful of others spots that looked decent. Sorry, we didn't get a good look at the bergshrund below the chimneys on the west ridge of Forbidden. It couldn't have been worse then the way we went so I bet you can find away around it, at least for another week or so.

Yes. We hit the snow field traverse late in the day and found the snow soft and easy to kick steps in. However, we did find ice under the snow in a couple of spots. Nothing really difficult, but I'm guessing that the snow field only has a few more weeks before it ices up.

Trip: Torment-Forbidden - Traverse Date: 8/19/2012 Trip Report: Yes, another TR on the Torment-Forbidden traverse. Basically, this is more of a conditions update for anyone who is interested. The route is in great condition. The snow traverse is still in but the bergshrund is growing larger by the day. We had to climb down below it and back up to the ridge. Everything was straight forward with the exception of the descent from the west ridge notch on forbidden. We stupidly descended via the broken snow finger/glacier instead of rappelling down the bypass chimneys. Don't make that mistake. Plenty of running water on the route so a stove is not necessary. However, make sure to refill water at the bivy ledge as there are no snow patches after that (if you are traversing west-east). Anyway, here are some pictures... On the Taboo glacier Torment SW ridge notch Summit of Torment Rappel onto the North side glacier from the notch on Torment Snow traverse in good condition Awesome views from the bivy (evening) More awesome views from the bivy (morning) On the last parts of the ridge proper Simul climbing on the west ridge of Forbidden One of many less-then-ideal rappels getting off of Forbidden Home free Gear Notes: water filter (very useful) Brought a picket and ice screw but did not use either. Approach Notes: Boston Basin, trail is good. The Bergshrund spanning the Taboo glacier directly below the South face of Torment is growing larger, we had to run it on its east end. Otherwise everything is straight forward.

I think it is good at times to put the climbing ambitions aside and take the time to appreciate what really matters. I always look forward to getting out with my older brother. Way to give your brother a great memory at a young age. That is way cooler in my opinion than sending a tough grade.

I have not done that particular loop, but I have been in and out most ways in the Enchantments. I may be mistaken, but did you mean Toketie creek instead of Tokette creek? I only ask because going down toketie sucks. It is all tree burn and nasty bushwhacking, think lots of white dead sharp tree branches that jab you in all places while climbing over thousands of logs. Instead, I would recommend going out temple canyon. It is a lot more pleasant and it drops you off at Nada lake. It has been a few years, but as I recall there is a primitive trail going through the canyon. You could also go out Hook Creek which is pleasant enough, but you would have to walk a couple of miles of road back to your car at the snow creek wall parking lot.

+1 for the Fischer Chimneys on Shuksan. You can't ask for a better introduction to the North Cascades. Personally, I love this route in the late season. You get a little bit of ice, rock and glacier, not to mention a beautiful approach to a nice lake. It also helps that the route is varied enough to keep your attention. You're never really "slogging" like on the bigger volcanoes. As a plus, you can climb the summit pyramid via the SE Rib. And the views aint bad.

Epic.

Wow, Peter Croft, that is awesome. Also great work on a sweet climb.