counterfeitfake

Were you going back to Windy Canyon on that road? As far as I can recall the Black Velvet road was open at that time. Eh I don't know all these fancy "names" you locals use and I'm probably wrong.

We got out there in a Subaru WRX, loaded with gear and four dudes, but we had to be real careful . Would recommend stopping by the visitors station or the camp host for a color copy of the road topo, it takes a little bit of route finding. Well... I remember doing it in a rented Chrysler Sebring a year and a half ago. It was close but not that bad, I just had to watch where I put the wheels. I suppose the "rented" part was helpful.

Well, instructors can be gapers too... Teaching a basic class is tricky. Most students have no basis to make their own decisions about gear (or technique, or anything else), and just do what they're told. So instructors have a strong tendency to be conservative in telling them what to do. I think using a very light helmet is a fine option when you have the experience to make your own decision about the tradeoffs involved. I think a beginner is better off with something more durable. Lightweight gear often requires more care and attention. I'd rather have students on my team use gear that will stand up to the abuse a n00b might accidentally dish out. Does FOTH actually say anything about polystyrene helmets?

Simul-rapping is awesome, if you know you're going to reach an anchor.

So, what is the difference? The mountain got color in the fifties?

Maybe they had to spend money proving that it actually minds the prusik.

that link is SO busted

Nobody should participate in this thread without having read the thread mattp linked to. Jamin wants to be able to drill bolts in case he raps down the wrong line off some remote peak he scrambled up. He's going to need a lot of bolts and hangers. If he brings a hammer the extra weight will cause him to epic. Don't die, Jamin. Bring prusiks. Learn to routefind.

Nice. Which line are you on in the picture? I see people on the grand, two left of the grand, one on top by Ultimate Everything and a bunch of people on the apron (the snake and diedre). Oh and the other team just right of Millenium Falcon. I'm on the first (real) pitch of University Wall, leading, almost at the anchors. I'm tucked in the corner and only partially visible. You can see my friend Ryan with a big orange haul bag at the anchor. He's probably rocking out to Devo on his big wall ghetto blaster. It was taken in September of 2006. You can also see some other aid climbers off to the right of us, I think they're on Uncle Ben's.

I am in that picture.

Last summer there was a #3 C4 fixed high on the Fin on Dragontail, pretty far away from any of the sensible routes. I was pretty far off-route too and spent a while wiggling it. It seemed like it could come loose but it was getting late so I left it.

Well it's apparently 47 and raining in Leavenworth today.

It's a picture of a girl wearing clothes and a harness, sitting at Vantage.

I think this scenario has successfully made everyone look dumb.

Really cool Klenke, thanks.

Does anyone know where the photographer was standing?

Classically, I figured it out seconds after posting. Just click that brown map again for the forecast. Actually pretty cool. Man, if this is how I react to change now, I can't wait to be elderly...

Does anyone know what happened to NOAA's Cascade mountain forecast page? I used to go to Seattle and click "mountains" on the sidebar, and be able to navigate to a standard 5-day forecast for the north or central Cascades. Now I get this which leads to this crappy picture that I can't interpret.

9snYoWKjHQI

Short fixing is definitely a time-saver. Racsom didn't explicitly say that it was roughly his third day aid climbing, and his partners' second and first, respectively. Pretty hardcore effort from a bunch of aid noobs.

LAPE

thats what people call a group of people who climb a mountain together when their only experience in mountain climbign is "Into Thin Air" Maybe better to start with a "avalanche, crevasse, and hypothermia avoidance team" and see where that gets you.

What's a "summit team"?

OMG

Bolts rule. They keep you from falling off mountains.