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More days out will keep the rust off

I didn't see the "Great Day for Climbing" one here in Spokane but didn't go all 3 nights either. Overall, I was a bit disappointed but at least there wasn't a feature-length show about shooting tigers in Russia this time.

Well climbing is totally out for at least 4 months. It appears my torn rotator has healed well but since the pain persists, they've done an MRI with some dye and it turns out I've got a torn labrum as well. Damn, I wish they woulda caught that a few months ago. I can still hike and work the core I guess. Thanks for all of the great advice though.

I've been using the Yates Rocker for TR for several years and fallen on it many times - works great. I've used the Silent Partner on a few solo leads and I like it even though it's weighty to haul around. I've taken one fall on it and it locks up nicely.

Great story Bill. I've caught myself mumbling too loud a few times too.

Thanks for all the great ideas. I tried the farmers carry a few days ago and really paid for it in my shoulder and elbow so I think that's out. As mentioned before, I can't do the campus board thing for awhile either. The hanging bumbell curl has worked well for me in the past and even though it causes some pull on the elbow, I don't think it'll be too bad...I'll give it a try.

Great idea. I could rig up some old webbing into a couple of carrying slings and haul rocks up Beacon Hill. Of course, that's a mile up but I could use less weight and/or not carry it so far. What kinda grip do you think - a loop or just a strand? Maybe a tennis ball handle?

Normally I'd just hit Wild Walls during the winter but I may not be able to do that for another month or so. I've been working my core but not sure if my grip exercises are effective for climbing. What's the best exercises you've found that increase hand strength specific to climbing? I need something to work with that doesn't stress the shoulder and elbow areas too much - campus board would be out! So far I've looked into the therapy putty used for rehabbing hands - seems good. A weight hanging below a gripped towel seems to be working ok too. I've also read mixed opinions on using the standard spring grip strenghteners-some sources say they won't help a lot for climbing specific muscles. Anyhoo, these seem good but I'm interested in hearing if they (or others) have helped specific to staying in climbing shape when climbing isn't a real option for awhile. [Added] Hey! I got a nick-name! Special! Never mind - I see that's just some standard title thingy.

Sorry yours is taking so long too. In a wierd misery-loves-company sorta way, it does give me encouragement knowing that 3 or 4 months isn't really that long with this kind of thing. Doctors and PTs are so non-committal when it comes to giving a time. I've been getting the "it can take some time for these types of things" answer. Which of course is true but time is relative. If it's not nearly healed by the next doc appt (mid Dec), I'll ask more fervently about the surgery option.

Rock Warriors Way was a bit....different. Some of it made sense and was helpful though. Personal preference I guess. "How to climb 5.12" was very useful. Still can't climb 5.11 but I picked up some good stuff any way.

Some time in July, I caught a fall on my outstretched right arm. It hurt like hell but I kept climbing, but at a much lower level and with some pain, which I figured would eventually subside if I took it easy. Then at the end of August, I took a header on the wet talus above Source Lake and wound up aggravating the original injury and messing up the righ elbow, upper arm and wrist too. The shoulder turned out to be a partial tear in the rotator cuff and I've been taking it easy and doing the PT ever since. It's coming up on 3 months of PT now and it does seem to be much better than it was. My range of motion is good but I still get occassional shooting pain (wrist, elbow and mainly shoulder) if I contort the arm just right. I've started climbing again but just aid and up to 5.6 depending on the route. Anyhoo, my question is this...for those with some experience with these types of injuries, does this progress seem acceptable for someone of my age (49) or should I consider surgery. The doc says if it's not nearly healed within the next month, we should consider a cotisone shot but that surgery isn't being ruled out. He and the PT seem to think progress is ok but just wanted to see what others have experienced.

If my climbing experiences were anything like that, I'd give it up. Gloomy,

If I go to clip and my belayer isn't paying enough attention to either see of feel it, I'd be yelling more than "slack" but "slack" would be part of it If that got to be routine, I'd stick to top-roping with him.

Your old metal frame pack is too small to fit all that 1970s Eddie Bauer camp gear so I gotta carry the rope and the rack.

8. You ask to pass on a 3 pitch route when there's a team in front of us too.

I do like that the EDDY will lock again if the lever is pulled too far. Nothing wrong with a standard ATC though.

Main Crack at Minnehaha. I got as far as the huge ledge (12' off the ground) and couldn't figure out where to go after that. The rest of the route seemed devoid of any holds. Guess the big-ass crack up the center must have been alot smaller then

I read about this a few years ago. It's the hard nalgenes with the #7 in the recycle triangle that they're referring to. The softer white ones aren't #7 though.

Very nice. I'm hoping to do this next year and continue on to S. Ingalls then Fortune then follow the ridge over to Ingalls Pass.

I'll 4th that - aluminum oxide. My partner retired his Attache this year and got something different - that's when the grey started showing up on my rope. I'm guessing some belay devices and biners are worse than others.

Which Library system? My wife works at the Spokane County Library in the valley. I'm a programmer but am interested in getting into the porn industry as an coreographer. Either that or a climbing guide book author. Or a surgeon.

About an hour from Kettle Falls

If I were to bring a friend up there that couldn't climb 5.14g, would there be some stuff he could play on while I did the hard stuff? You know, some warm up 5.10 or 5.4? Oh, and Marty, for Pete's sake but a shirt back on till you get some tone back.

I'm considering cortisone for my torn rotator as well. Recognizing that it's mainly to get the inflammation down enough to relieve some pain while it's healing. I'm just nervous that it'll allow me to push the PT harder than I should without even recognizing that it's too much.

Sounds TR worthy.