spotly

Burr and the other ®s didn't vote against the veterans-just against this package. Burr's version offered veterans some pretty exceptional benefits but unlike the (D)'s version, which offered the same benefits across the board regardless of time served, the ®'s considered that studies showed the (D)'s package would adversely affect retention and so offered a package that increased the benefits per individual based on the amount of time served.

Great read. Sounds like "fun"

White Rock is the one I was referring to. Sounds like I've got the gear I'll need then. Thanks Bob - timely beta

Very nice. Great shots!

Anyone here ever aid up that? I've got limited supplies of small gear and zilch as far as an aid rack so was wondering what kinda gear it takes before I go out borrowing and begging. Thanks.

Makes sense - thanks.

I once saw a leader place his last piece about 20 feet below a ledge then finish off that easy 20 feet (5.3ish) and traverse 50 feet left without placing another piece. The 2nd reached the last piece, which he pulled. But, because the leader had traversed without placing a piece, the rope no longer followed the easy line up - instead, the 2nd was forced to climb some hideous crack that was obviously at his limit. To make matters worse, if he'd have fallen (which he nearly did), the rope, which was barely caught on a bump on the ledge above, would have popped loose resulting in a 45 foot fall, either decking or swinging into a corner system. Scarey stuff for him and a visually supported lesson for me....protect the frickin traverse! Since the ledge was an easy walk, I think a belay from directly above the 2nd would have been the best choice in that case though.

I found this comment in an article at Rope Systens : "The rap/tag/haul line can stay at the bottom of the follower’s pack for most routes, and then be brought out when time to make rappels. For particularly hard climbing, the leader might clip it to the back of his/her harness to haul one or both packs or to tag gear while aid climbing or short-fixing." Not sure what the bolded area is saying. Could someone clarify it for me? Thanks

It appears to be a single chain to me. If I get an answer to my question above though, I'll scope it out and send an update. Wheather and procurement of a climbing partner permitting of course

Nice TR and pics! I've read that the property along the road is signed "Private" - is the bridge private too? I'm guessing a pretty small rack - sizes? How long did it take you car-to-car? Thanks.

I think he said it was an autographed copy too.

Don't understand the language but too funny listening to the guy argue with him about ruining the Matterhorn while the chick just wanted to buy something. Great post.

We were hoping to do the bolted line (Cocaine Connection) afterwards but time wasn't on our side. The dashed line looked good too and would have gotten us past the two slower teams - hindsight I guess. Yep - that's a Nalgene. But it's the "safe" plastic and not that toxic stuff so it's ok

Trip: Icicle Buttress - R&D Date: 5/10/2008 Trip Report: My friend Carl and I climbed it today. Got to the base at 8:30 expecting a long line. Two other teams were just starting up. We had an hour or less wait at each belay and got down at 1:30. Didn't like the waits but the climbing was pretty fun. Favorite pitch was #2 (great hand jams) and the chimney pitch (#3). Last pitch was waaaay long and the start was kinda awkward. Fun pitch though...other than the start and the hideous rope drag that I somehow managed to get. Alas, I was too short to take the start left of the crack and had to slab by way up under the little roof to the right then over. Carl took the left side start, traversing a few feet right into the crack and said it was fun. Took the decent to the left. Kinda steep and sandy but not as bad as expected. Rain came down when we hit the pavement The route we took. Carl coming up the second pitch. Carl heading up the chimney pitch (#3). Carl topping out. The descent off climbers left.

Thanks for the pics. It looks so small and low-angle from the car - like you'd be hard pressed to get a half pitch 2nd class walk-up Cams to #4 eh - any doubles useful?

While my eye for pro seems to suck, at least my route-finding is good R&D sounds like fun. Think I'll try it then the Cocaine Connection start the second time up if time permits - see which variation is funnerer. I do love slab Lots of good beta on where to start CC but my guide book doesn't show where R&D starts - how far left of CC - 20 feet, 100 feet, obvious?

Midway was my first trad lead. I thought it was fairly easy and fun other than the section a few feet above Fred where there's a shallow and flaring horizontal crack. I managed to get a small cam in about halfway across the slab but I figured it would blow anyway so I moved quickly right into the chimney just a few feet below the belay. I guess I was off-route. Perhaps I was on Midway-Not-So-Direct.

Climbing The Tooth in the moonlight was awesome! Did it last year and might make it an annual event.

Doh-I'm slow. And I'm a day off too. Cleanup is on Sunday 10ish.

Nope - they'll be at PF first thing in the morning picking up trash and placing logs for errosion control - then BBQ and climbing after.

Right on! Post Falls is where I cracked my rib on a rock sticking out of a climb I doinked off of. Love that place. I see the Mounties are scheduled for a cleanup out there. Perhaps they can be convinced to remove those annoying rocks from the routes -

In the NE area, we see lots of black bear, especially up near Kettle Falls and over at Sullivan Lake. I've only seen one grizzly up there and it was along Sheep Creek, near Northport. Rumor had it that some bad bears from Glacier NP were being transplanted into that area at one time. Seems unlikely but that was the rumor. We counted 4 blacks below Heather Pass a few years ago while hiking the Maple Pass loop. Also saw my first lynx on that same trip - that made the trip actually

Good stuff - thanks. I'll check back in....September? LOL

I don't imagine it's changed much in the last few weeks as far as access? I found this topo - does the start look right? Seems it would be further left by the single dark black line? Hey Kevin K, you took a whipper in there somewhere didn't ya. That should leave a lasting impression

I think number 2 is more dangerous. In the first pic, he's preoccupied with the pink drink thing. In the second pic, his hands are free and he looks alert and prepared. Yes, he's much more dangerous in number 2...final answer.