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Trip: Teanaway Peak - South Ridge Date: 6/28/2008 Trip Report: A few of us headed up the snag Teanaway Peak Saturday. From the TH to the pass between Teanaway and Iron Peak was mostly dry with a small stretch of mud and two small patches of snow. From the pass, we headed counterclockwise till we ran into a steep snowfield. Since the girls weren't prepared for the snow, we stuck to a rock rib past mostly 3rd class loose stuff. A few 4th class moves forced us onto the snow. From the ridge to the summit was more 2nd and 3rd. I think the route would have been easier had we crossed the snow lower down and slogged up the tree-line slope on the other side. The views were terrific - a good spot to scope out conditions of surrounding peaks and plan for future summits. Scramblicious Aid? Yummy Fortune, Ingalls South and Ingalls North Iron Peak from Teanaway Peak summit Teri waiting like this for our return Teanaway Peak and Mt. Stuart from Iron Peak Volcanic Neck from Iron Peak Gear Notes: Ice ax maybe. Approach Notes: Good trail most of the way

Well, we lucked right onto the tunnel without a hitch but I'm hard-pressed to tell you exactly where it's at...anyway, after climbing to the notch behind LJT, scramble into the next gully then look up - this is a pic of what you'll see, scramble up then go behind a large dark flake. Maybe someone with a better memory tell you where that flake's at in this pic but I think you should be able to find it if you're in this general area.

According to the ranger, as of yesterday, the road is clear to the Cathedral Pass TH and the creek crossing is 18 to 20 inches depending on time of day. Still haven't heard about the trail/snow conditions but a friend said a friend of his friend's friend told him that the trail was lots of soggy and deepish snow.

Doable. Some teams do choose to rope up though. My thinking is if I'm not comfortable soloing when no one else is around, then I won't solo. When going alone, I don't rely on someone else being there to bail me out if I get sketched or I'm not sure of the route. Do your homework on the route and conditions then make good judgement calls along the way.

That is nice. Thanks for the shots. I was debating on adding it to my itinerary for a 4 day trip planned for late Sept. I've heard there's a "trail" that takes a body down to the Snow Creek trail from near there. Anyone know what that "trail" is like?

Anyone know what the road and trail conditions are like now?

I agree with you on Creamsicle Buttress. I personally thought it was a bit suck compared to other routes on the rock like Bono, Final Dihedral or Supprehension (short but sweet!). The 5.10 traverse on Downtown seems ok when taking a low line across. A tension traverse works great there too. Looks like you had a great weekend. Wish somebody would head across the water and post some pics of the routes on the Penninsula - hmmm, maybe me. Bono - great route!

Nice TR. Got any more pictures of Edwards Plateau?

Sounds like a character building trip Sorry you didn't get your plan 'A' but at least you got a summit of some sort

Trip: Lions Head Attempt - Date: 6/16/2008 Trip Report: The road to the "easier" approach to the Lions Head is passable. One deadfall to drive around and a steep-sided stream running across in one spot. It's a rough road either way so passenger cars would get banged up even if they made it over the deep trench. Lloyd picked me up at 7:30 and we were on the trail by 10:30. The Summit Post directions to the "easier approach" are spot on but there was one intersection close to the TH that wasn't mentioned - staying right is obvious there since the granite is clearly visible in that direction. Equipped with two cans of bear spray, off we went. The new North Idaho guide book says to follow the old road next to the creek for a mile before taking a trail to the left. Summit Post says to follow the road/trail to the end where it dumps you onto the talus.Things change I guess so....we followed the road/trail for about a quarter mile where it petered out at an overgrown turn-around. From there, an obvious and surprisingly maintained trail heads up the hill to the left. I say maintained only because recent deadfalls had been recently cut from the trail. The trail itself is pretty steep and isn't very well worn so it's easy to lose - more like a moose trail. Anyhoo, we trudged up that beast to 5200' where we ran into deep compact snow. The direction was obvious at this point though - keep heading up, crossing a creek or so along the way. Lloyd laid in a few way points along the way and even without the snow, I can see how this would be very useful on the return to keep from some major bushwhacking - we used them. We hit the talus near the NW side of the cirque, just below West Lions Head. That thing was so much bigger than expected, and steep, at least of the north face. At this point we scoped out the possibilities for gaining the saddle between the West and East summits. It appeared that a steep climb up snow directly south would put us onto a wet but what looked like an eassyish scramble of maybe 50 feet or so. The other option was to follow the guide book directions and circle to the right and climb to the saddle from the south side. We decided to take the direct route and headed up the slope. We stopped at one point to put on crampons and discuss the deep snow on the slabs above the scramble - as I was saying how they didn't look too fun to climb under, a huge section slid off, slamming into the basin and sending big blocks of ice to our left. We stared for a few minutes then quickened our pace through the debris towards "plan C' - a snow finger to the NE Ridge of the East Summit. I need to get some stair stepping in because I was sucking air pretty hard getting through that section. The snow finger was steep (about 50 degrees) but other than a short section above a cliff band, the runout was a long fun slide into the basin. Once we reached the ridge we weaved through the rocks and found a ledge on the east side, which we followed for a few hundred feet till it dead-ended. There were a few spicey moves but mostly an easy scramble. We had a break and assessed the options. We could climb down to the snow and continue circling around to the south side of the saddle or find a route straight up. Since the slabs on the south side were likely to be holding snow and wetness, we started scrambling upwards. It was mostly wet 3rd and 4th class. We got to one loose section with a 10' vertical corner and stalled. The moves looked easy but getting to the corner involved a few feet on a dirty, slanting and very exposed slab with little in the way of hand holds. We decided to retreat...then to try it....then to retreat..then Lloyd made the move onto the slab and his foot slid out from under him. We both laughed then headed back to the ledge, just shy of the summit. The trip out was more direct. We followed the ridge to the NE, finding a way down to the snow on the east side of the cirque. After much plunge stepping and a "crevasse rescue" we found the first waypoint and were back at the TH by 4:15. We should have brought a short just-in-case rope and some webbing. Oh well, a good excuse to get up there again. Cool area with much bigger rock than expected. Pictures don't do it justice. Nearing West Lions Head Creek West Lions Head Climbing to the saddle Change of plan Heading towards NE ridge of East Lions Head East Face of East Lions Head East and West Lions Head from NE ridge Lloyd requires rescue Our Route

Thanks Steve. Lloyd just threw a trip at me for heading up to the Lions Head - guess we'll get a better idea tomorrow how much snow there is. We'll keep an ear open for those approaching storms..assuming we can even get to the TH. After watching him and Maryanne get denied Chimney Rock a few years ago, I suspect Lloyd will be nervous to hear about the forecast We passed them on our descent and warned em about the black clouds on the east side. Between the bursts of lighning and the thunder, we could heard them bailing from as far away as the Roothaan col.

Anyone been up the trail yet? Still tons of snow to the pass(es)?

Point 7382 - just south of South Ingalls.

Sounds like you had fun but brrrrrr. Did you take bags or just huddle? Nice pics.

If you go, let us know how it was.

I'm not a skier but looking from the top of Fortune Peak, I'd say probably not enough to bother with. It looked like some recent tracks from the top of Fortune down towards Ingalls.

Here's from Saturday. Ignore the person in the blue hat - couldn't keep him from hamming up the shot.

Thanks Bug.

Is it directly across the canyon from Shoshone - and visible from the main trail? If you come across that pic, I'd be interested in seeing it - would give some perspective on size. Thanks.

Anyone familiar with this feature in Blodgett Canyon? Heading over next week and wouldn't mind checking it out depending on where it's at in the canyon and it's bushwhack factor (wife hates ticks....me too for that matter). I sent a request off to the author of the SP page but no reply yet. Horsehead Arch

Decided to slog up Fortune Peak today instead. Looking forward to your TR though.

Keep on the road to recovery Dane - sounds positive. Nice job Sobo!

Been there. We came off Adams a few ridges too far west a few years ago and eventually hit the loop trail, which was amazing since it was mostly covered in snow. Anyhoo, the correct direction was obviously left on the trail but I was outvoted 2 to 1. Flabergasted that we'd be adding several more miles to an already grueling car-to-car trip, my first inclination was to sit and wait for them to come back. But I trudged onward with "the team" anyway. About the time we hit the North Cascades highway (joking) they realized the error of their way and turned around (6 extra RT miles total!). Then, as if that sufferage wasn't enough - when we finally cut the correct trail, we met up with another team and one of my partners says "Oh thank GOD, we've been lost for 3 hours." I pulled the brim of my hat down as far as I could.

Ayone know if Colchuck got dumped on with this latest storm?

Good suggestion. Here's one: http://www.laundrybagstoreonline.com/form2834-yel.htm