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I've tried quite a few different foods but feeling like it's a dart-shoot. Hopping out of the bag and shoveling down some oatmeal and a tea seems "ok" but the first hour or so feels sluggish. I've also done the big carb load the night before and just had tea in the morning - seems to work sometimes. Anyone have a favorite breakfast routine that privides them with some longer-term energy without slowing them down early on?

Anyone know if the road is open to the TH yet? Also, I forgot about the border crossing issue - has anyone here gotten the new Enhanced Drivers License? How long did it take to get in the mail? Their site says 2 to 3 weeks. I'm hoping less than 16 days

Gear list please. Any doubles required?

I know. The ice in the water wasn't melted in the correct shape to get the tip of the peak in the reflection. I had a tantrum and almost called it quits right there

No bolts. Webbing set perfect for single rope raps. (ADDED): Actually one bolt on top. The only thing I did to the pic was adjust the levels slightly. On top of everything else going right, we actually had perfect lighting

Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge Date: 6/21/2009 Trip Report: I was going to climb Prusik Peak last week when no permits were required but the forecast didn't look promising. Brian and I decided to give it another shot Saturday so we packed our gear and headed to the trailhead Friday after work. We threw out the bivy bags and tried to get a few hours sleep before starting but the folks next to us decided to stay up all night slamming their doors - ah, TH camping at its finest. We hit the trail about 4:15 and set a good pace to Colchuck Lake. As we headed up Aasgard, we kept an eye on the weather. Clouds seemed to surround the Enchantments but were being held at bay by Dragontail and Little Annapurna. We kept our fingers crossed as we headed down the consolidated snow slopes then up to Prusik Pass. I was surprised to see just one tent in the upper Enchantments and not a soul around anywhere. Aasgard Guard Lots of goats out Talisman Lake Once at the base of the route, we were having a hard time figuring out where to stash the extra pack and gear so we shoved it under the balanced rock and put in some rocks to hopefully keep any critters at bay. Balance Rock and base of climb First few pitches or one long one Getting ready I linked the first two pitches together and topped out on the ridge but with a tunnel between me and the crux slab - guess I went up a little early? While I belayed Brian up, a goat started rummaging around under the balanced rock. I screamed and made faces to no avail so eventually decided to rain down some condemnation. He scurried along. I worried. Anyhoo, Brian made it up and continued on through the tunnel (barely fit - ha) then he set up a good anchor below the crux slab. Brian arrives on ridge Tunnel on ridge to crux slab. Off route? Setting an anchor I clipped the crappy piton then tip-toed up and over, wondering if that could truely be the crux. Seemed much easier than the second pitch. From the top of the slab, I went towards the south face and followed a horzontal crack to the butt-scoot section. Looked like a person could step down the north side to avoid the ride but it was all good. Brian arrived at the belay then scrambled up the benches on the north side, setting one piece where it was kinda dicey then belayed me up to a large bench. There was a small vertical finger crack in a corner on the right (west) end so I started up that. The crack had good placements and was quite fun though a little thin on the fingers lower down. It ended on another bench where I found a right trending flake off to the left. The flake had bomber hands but no feet and placing a piece without my feet slipping took a little effort. At the top of the pitch I found a chimney that looked pretty good but rope drag was suck so I brought Brian up. We didn't know if this was the 5.8 chimney or the 5.4 but couldn't find any blind corners to the right so Brian headed up. It was a short chimney which took no pro. Brian climbed it by squirming inside, I found a few small face holds on the outside. Brian enjoying the exposure Me tagging the summit Brian tagging the summit We couldn't find a register so just sat around enjoying the views for half an hour. The Lost World The Enchantments The raps went well but the rope stuck on the last one. Hard pulling got it unstuck. We did the short traverse back to the base of the route in rock shoes. There was one small patch of snow near the base that was easily avoidable. We arrived just in time to find Mr. Marmot finishing off the last of my electrolyte tablets. The trip back up to Aasgard was easy but we were beat by the time we reached the trail at the end of the lake. The hike back to the trailhead went on forever. Brian made it into his bivy but I just laid down face first in the middle of the parking area. We got a few hours of quality sleep before heading out. Easy slog back to Aasgard Easy slog back to Aasgard Ick Glad we finally got this one in. Excellent setting; great rock. Gear Notes: Cams .3 to 2 Nuts Brought ice ax - didn't need Brought crampons - didn't need Approach Notes: Consolidated snow with a few sections of trail through the Enchantments

Thanks. We're thinking about camping on FTD plateau and not really concerned about the extra drive time. Just looking for the easiest approach.

If there's still snow, I'd stick with the winter route. If you posthole there, you'd be postholing on the talus above Source Lake too.

I have a trip planned for Granite in August. Which approach do you prefer and why? Thanks

It's a bummer that the club members don't offer up more advertised trips in the Kinne. There are lots of folks climbing in the club though and much of it is last-minute planning. Get out to the scheduled Minnehaha (Tuesdays) and Post Falls (Thursdays) climbs. You'll meet many of the active members there and get some networking in. The talk usually turns into who's doing what and someone looking for a partner.

I wouldn't be able to control myself - would have been knocking at a door last night at 8:40 with a Sheriff in tow.

I'd be interested in seeing a few pics even if you're not putting them up for sale.

I have a 40 degree that gets used in the dead of summer. If I expect more chill than it can handle comfortably, I supplement it with a pair of ubber-light down pants and/or a light bivy bag. Most of the time, I take a 15 degree bag, which is about perfect for fall, spring and much of the summer (for me). My zero degree bag sees some use in the winter plus my wife likes it for the late fall and early spring stuff. I don't think there's too little difference between a 15 and a zero to justify both....IMO. But, if I were only able to choose one, I'd go with a 15 and supplement the insulation with layering as needed.

Sounds like a blast. My girls would rather eat a slug than climb rock. My wife seems to tolerate it a little bit...sometimes. You'll have someone to haul you up in your declining years

You're obviously not keeping up with who's out on the edge these days. Perhaps I should direct you to my latest TR in the Alpine Lakes section!?

It's true - I've seen him. He's the guy with glasses that used to climb.

I wear mine except when doing photo shoots for Climbing magazine.

the tooth and rock shoes found

You're gonna get a dozen different answers so start out concervative and draw your own conclusions. As for me, I rope up nearly every time.

Didn't see the cam. We took the direct finish rather than the Catwalk - my second was having issues with vertical so I thought I'd spare him that little bit of exposure He kept muttering "don't look down" to himself.

Trip: The Tooth - Date: 5/30/2009 Trip Report: Carl and I took a couple of friends up to The Tooth Saturday for their first alpine multipitch rock climb. We started at 5:15 to avoid the hoards that we knew would surely arrive on such a fine day. The snow started at the trailhead but was consolidated up to Great Scott Basin and only got mushy in the few spots where the sun was hitting it (no postholing). There was a huge amount of rockfall on the open traverse above the stream. The first chute up to the base of the route has snow to within 15 feet of the top but it's thin in spots and of course pretty steep. We opted to take the other pass (which of these two is actually Pineapple Pass?), which was smooth sailing up and over. There's lots of snow on the backside traverse but the 3rd class scramble to the base was dry. We cruised to the summit and enjoyed the views for two hours before noticing another team heading up the basin. Rapped off about the time they arrived. One more stuck nut on the first pitch (sad face). The snow was very soft heading down, making for a most excellent race between Carl and I (damn, that was fun). Here's some pics in case you can't get enough of The Tooth. Good steps Jimmay gets his first alpine summit Me posing for a hero shot The Summit Team - Me, Jim, Carl (yellow helmet), and Brad (Brads first multipitch) If only I too were coordinated... This was a bit slick and quite a drop for the unwary glissader

Nice Tazz!

Nice shots. How was the snow on the approach?

Even if it is packed, you could always hoof it up the trail a short distance and find a spot off to the side. Midweek is good advice but you'd have great luck getting there earlier on a Friday as well.

The Petzl Charlet Snowalker is a nice ixe too. A friend has one and prefers it to the Raven Pro because it's riveted. Haven't heard about any heads falling off the Ravens though, so I'm thinking he was just being contrary