spotly

The Olympus Stylus SW models hold up pretty well (I have the 1030 SW). They're crush resistant to #200 or so and waterproof. Plus, they're shaped just right for slipping into a T-Shirt pocket. Only bad experience has been that I got a small pebble stuck in the lens cover channel and it messed up the cover mechanism...which cost $100 to get repaired. That was a dumb mistake on my part and I'm happy with the quality and the durability otherwise.

I've no experience with the glacier later in the season but we did see a few cracks opening up, which I assume (based on other TRs) can be avoided by staying right on the glacier. I can't imagine the bergschrund would be much fun in September though. The sun hits the glacier pretty early so it had softened up a bit by the time we got on it. Even so, we used crampons and they were handy for the harder snow in the runnels on the traverse to the rock. They were also nice for the short and steep snowfield before the glacier, which will probably be melted out by the time you get up there.

I'll certainly split that last pitch up next time or at least get smarter with my runners. I'll have to keep an eye out for that hold on the last crack too. That block seemed secure to me but so did that hold that popped on me last year. Still, I don't think bolts are needed.

I'll be camped at Gnome Tarn on the evening of Friday, Sept 26th. I gotta be out of the area by Saturday evening (27th) so a Friday or Saturday climb would work for me. The only route I could lead would be the 5.7 West Ridge. The South Face 5.9 routes look like fun too and I could follow if I found someone set on one of them.

That was an ambitious day. That's an excellent reflection shot on Colchuck. I'll be up there for 4 days of solo in late September. I'd like to grab Prusik Peak but not willing to haul up gear in the off-chance that someone could join me.

Thanks for the beta. One last question, is the road doable with a low clearance car (a Toyota Yaris)?

Sounds like you had fun. I've been motivated to get up that route for a while now. Gotta get a partner motivated too though - maybe I'll direct em to your TR

What might a 5.7-5.8 trad leader who plans on pitching it out or running-belay want for a rack for the west ridge of Pigeon Spire - cam sizes, nuts, ?..? It sucks, but I only get a full day in there. Any other short climbs at 5.8 or below that we might be able to get in on the same day or on approach day? I suppose we could hit Bugaboo Spire and see how far we get before turnaround time. Thanks

11 hours seems like pretty good time RT for such a hot weekend. I struggled with the approach on Thur but felt better Friday and had a good time with the climb...other than the steep snow traverse directly above the open berschrund, which was certainly my psychological crux. We didn't see any bear during the trip but by the amout of bear doo and torn up trees near Holden Lake, sure seemed like lots around that area.

Trip: Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier Date: 7/25/2008 Trip Report: Bonanza Peak TRs abound but here's mine too in case anyone wants more pics This was Carl’s idea. I wasn’t too fond of it because I’d heard the rock was loose and sucky 4th class – meaning we’d be climbing 5.10 with boulders raining down (I have an active imagination). I’m glad I went. We both called and prepaid for round trip tickets on the slow ferry from Fields Point to Lucerne ($34.50 each). We also sent the required email to Holden Village to reserve space on the bus that runs from the dock up to the village ($9.00 RT each). I picked Carl up about 5am on Thursday and we headed to Chelan – a relaxing trip across highway 2 when done that time of day. At fields Point, we paid for the 3 days of parking ($12 total) and hauled the packs down to the dock. The Ferry arrived on time and a few hours later we were clinging to the seats of the old school bus, heading up the steep switchbacks towards Holden. It was 1:30 by the time the packs were off-loaded and we hit the trail. We headed out of town on a flat road that brought us shortly to the obvious trail. For a while, we had some shade and level footing but we were soon switchbacking up the hill, fully exposed to the sun. It was hot and we were both guzzling water along the way. There were a few small water sources higher up and we used these to refresh our supply. By the time we reached Holden Lake, my stomach, which had been bothering me for a week, was in full crap-mode. I was ready to explode and had slowed considerably. We took a long break, protected from the swarms of bugs by mosquito netting and Deet – the bugs were scary thick, like on some sci-fi movie. Hoisting our packs, we headed right around the lake and quickly took the wrong path into the swamps, ducking, dodging, diving, dipping and dodging and expecting to run into some ancient lost tribe. We quickly recognized our error after only an hour then retraced our steps. Then we decided to spend an additional half hour climbing up and down car-sized boulders just to test our balance with heavy packs and also to get the most out of our trip. I took a few cool shots, like that was our purpose all along, and then we retraced our steps…again. We eventually found the correct bushwhack route and before long we were churning up towards Holden Pass. I must admit, the approach had kicked my ass by this point and I was ready to bivy leaning against my trekking poles. I couldn’t convince Carl to jump up and down on my stomach – I’m not even sure if he had a jump left in him anyway. On hands and knees, I arrived at the pass and collapsed face down in the remaining patch of snow. I muttered something about it having been a pretty mild day but I think Carl saw right through that. We set up camp, ate, and then hung the food before retiring our luxurious digs. Carl to his bivy sack and ¼ inch thick leaking Thermarest and me to my mini tent and 2.5 inch insulated pad. Carl spent the night blowing into his pad and I finally caught my breath about the time the sun came up. . Please, jump on my stomach Holden Lake Bonanza Peak and Mary Green Glacier Holden Pass Carl wonders where the trail is Finally! The Trail Holden Pass The day dawn glorious, made more so by some private quality time with nature. We got started up the route about 6:30. Climbing up the ridge from camp brought us to a short scramble through the trees and up to a large heather bench. After exiting the trees, we hung a left towards a ridge, hopping the boulders to its crest. The ridge topped out against a cliff, leaving us with the option of traversing across a slab of across a short stretch of steep snow. The slag looks slick so we went with the snow. On the other side, we scrambled class ¾ up next to small waterfalls. Some sections were wet and mossy but the holds were mostly positive. We traversed left from the top and scrambled across a few more waterfalls to the glacier. The glacier looked to be in excellent condition with only a few small crevasses showing. Carl led off and chose to stay right until reaching the top bench. The glacier is much taller than it appears from below but we reached to flat section in good time. We traversed left above the top, wandering through blocks from a small slide then more steeply up the bergschrund. The right side would have been a more direct line past this section and up onto the snow thumb. It was hard to see the condition of the bridge from lower down though. Instead, we continued up the middle, crossing the bergschrund on a wide and thick bridge - man, that thing is deep and wide! Once across, we traversed right towards the steep snow thumb. This was my personal crux area as I’m not overly fond of steep snow with yawners below to begin with. We reached the rock in good time. As usual, it appeared milder up close. We both switched to approach shoes, shoved both 30 meter 8mm ropes into packs then started up. The climbing was very pleasant. The rock was loose enough that I wouldn’t climb below another party, but not nearly as bad as I expected based on previous reports. Staying 4th class or lower was pretty easy and the few “off route” moves that were stiffer came supplied with good holds. We loitered for a short time on the summit before heading down. Some easy down climbing and a few raps put us back above the snow thumb. The snow had softened but footing on the steepest parts was still good. Once safely below the bergshrund, we picked up the pace and soon arrived back to our stashed gear above the slabs. I looked for rap slings on the far edge of the cliff above the slabs but couldn’t find any. We did find some about 100 feet farther back towards the glacier though. The rap put us on the edge of the first steep snowfield, which we would have to cross again. In hindsight, we should have just set up a rap on the cliff above the other side of the snow. Carl left his ice ax on top and had the pleasure of climbing back up the waterfall to retrieve it. Guess he really enjoyed that last rap. Got back to camp and ate an early dinner and retired. Heading up from the pass Small, steep snowfield above heather benches Scrambling the slabs next to the waterfalls Starting onto the Mary Green glacier Upper bench on the Mary Green Glacier Crossing the bergschrund Heading towards the snow thumb Climbing up the fun stuff The summit team Heading down The hike out was uneventful. We arrived in Holden just in time for lunch. For only $7.00 we got to enjoy a leafy salad and half a bowl of African peanut soup. A wave of nauseas ness once again engulfed me…for some reason. Carl went for seconds. I found out later that he actually owns a Holden Cookbook and wondered how two people so completely different could get along. Then I wondered if he’d be willing to jump on my stomach. It was an easy day; surely he had a jump left in him. The bus ride to the dock was bumpy and I kept my eyes focused on the trees and away from the busty lady across the aisle. I daydreamed of mountains unclimbed. Burgers in Chelan then over to I90. We talked about Bonanza Peak and about our next adventure all the way home. Time flew by. Gear Notes: Pickets. 60 meter rope for raps. Approach Notes: Stay out of the swamp and off the boulders at the lake. Go right of the swamp.

I've heard lots of people say there's no crevasse concerns on Sahale but when I did it there was a yawner that required crossing via a thinnish snow bridge or long trip around. I suppose still in the "minimal" range you're looking for though.

Trip: Selkirk Crest - High Traverse - The Beehive to Harrison Lake Date: 7/19/2008 Trip Report: A few of us (Brian, Ted, Bob and me) did the "Selkirk Crest High Traverse" on Saturday. The Beehive was by far the funnest part. From the road about a quarter mile back from the Harrison Lake TH, we bushwhacked through thick brush and found an animal path that cut through a soggy meadow. Part way through the brush we had to cross the Pack River via a convenient set of boulders and a large log - semi-easy crossing. More wet meadow then a slog up a slabby creekbed to the base of the dome. It looked like there were several fun ways to attack it. We opted for a line going up the right hand side where we found solid class 3/4 up to a clump of trees about halfway up. From there, we did a short traverse left to the center of the face then found some sporty 4th with a bit of avoidable 5th. There was no pro to be found but the climbing was easy enough. The granite heated up quickly and I was glad to reach some shade at the top. From the top, we continued westward along the ridge for about 1500 feet vertical in a mile and a half to the main crest, topping out on peak 7374. At this point, the route north consisted of some class 4 downclimbing then fun scrambling past point 7353. From here, we were unable to maintain the ridge so we dropped off on the east side and travered a snow field over to just below point 7167 (The Fin). After a long lunch, Brian and I roped up to climb The Fin. Regaining the ridge involved an extra pitch of low 5th. I topped out with a step up from a car-sized slab that moved slightly from its perch. I let Brian know to avoid it then belayed him up. Brian took the next pitch, a short 4th class and neatly exposed traverse around the west side of the ridge. The next pitch started with a 20 foot walk across a 2 foot wide edge - pretty cool...and puckering. At the end of the walk-across, I placed a .75 cam up high and stepped/swung around a blind corner to the right onto a narrow shelf. Another 25 feet up got me to the top of the pitch where I struggled to find a suitable anchor. Everything was detached blocks but I did manage to find a spot for a hex that looked like it would take take body weight without levering. I yelled down to Brian that I wasn't comfortable with the anchor and couldn't find anything else close by. I decide to downclimb to a bush and bring Brian up to collect the gear and regroup from a more suitable spot. The downclimb kinda frazzled me and I lost all enthusiasm for the last pitch above, which appeared to be more lichen and loose blocks. We bailed off to the east then finished the traverse east of the crest dropping down to Harrison Lake and back to the trailhead. We weren't fast but fast enough to complete the route well within 11 hours including one long lunch break and screwing around on The Fin. After the shakey downclimb off the top of the 3rd pitch, I convinced myself that the Fin was a lichenated pile of crap and not worth finishing. My opinion still holds about the quality of the feature but I'm already scheming to get back and tag the top anyway The traverse on the whole was very enjoyable, particularly the Beehive and the views down both sides of the crest. Gear Notes: Small rack to 3" Approach Notes: Hike Pack River road .25 miles south of the Harrison Lake TH to the clearing on the west side. Bushwhack through the meadow, cros the river, then follow the smooth granite creekbed that goes up to the center of the dome.

The complete traverse would be undoable with said doggy. The next summit west of the Beehive went 4th/low 5th on the ascent and the same on the downclimb of its north ridge. That peak could be bypassed on easy ground by cutting northwest from the ridge between Beehive and Little Harrison lakes though - west of the lakes. The Fin was kinda crappy 5.6-5.7 (crispy lettuce and loose blocks). We wound up off the main crest at one point and had to regain it just south of The Fin with some easy 5.2 climbing. The 2nd pitch of The Fin (1st if we had stayed on the crest) is very exposed and narrow 4th. The last pitch we did (one short of the summit) put me on top of a table with no options for an anchor. Plus I screwed up on my placements and had too much rope drag to move on to look for something else. Wound up downclimbing half the pitch. By then, we'd had enough and bailed to the basin on the east side and traversed over to above Harrison Lake and back to the TH. It's a fun route but not doggy friendly without a cutting out alot of the crest. I have done the low traverse on the east side of the crest before and it is an exceptional off-trail romp through meadows and some good scrambling. The new guide book says only fit and fast parties should attempt the route but we managed it just the same. About 11 hours including a lengthy lunch and gawking from the top of the various bumps along the way. No water on the route but it would be easy to drop a hundred feet off the crest about halfway through and pump from the runoff (still some big patches of snow hanging off the east side).

We went up the Bee Hive yesterday as part of a high traverse along the Selkirk Crest (TR later, but this was the funnest part). Staying right we kept it around 4th class till about halfway up where it kicks back quite a bit. We avoided dragging out the rope by traversing left towards the center. Other than a few avoidable 5.0 moves, it stayed 4th to the top. Didn't see any place for pro - exposed but scramblisious. Really fun 1200' of granite but I'd hate to be on it in the heat of the day - even at 8am, it was pretty hot.

Thanks. If I'd have read your post more thoroughly, I would have noticed the date difference.

Just to be clear, the incident in the original post is not related to the incident in the link posted in a reply below it - correct?

If you opt for the east ridge or north face, you can get to the TH below Rock Lake with a car. If you decide to do the west ridge scramble (a few unexposed 5.0ish moves but mostly class 3/4) and you head in via the Cliff Lake TH, expect a rough road and take high clearance though not necessarily 4WD. There's also an interesting looking route on the next Peak over (Elephant) that's a looong ridge run in the 5.6 range. I haven't done it yet but I have admired it from Rock Peak. It would be a brutal day-trip though. Take a look at the 4th class route on Snowshoe Peak too. It's excellent as a day-trip but again, brutally tiring....for us old peoples anyway. Have fun.

I was waiting to see if anyone was gonna throw something at this because I'm not aware of anything that I'd personally consider a good scramble of 5th class ridge run within 50 miles. For that kinda stuff, I'd say that the Idaho Selkirks are about the closest thing. Hoodoo Mountain near Kettle Falls looked promising on its east or south side. We did it from the NE last year and found some stepped scrambling - kind of brushy in spots though. Of course all of that is further than 50 miles. Even though it's closer than the east side of the Cascades, by the time you throw in the drive time on some of those rough roads, you could have gone to the Teanaways or Leavenworth area. The up side is the lack of peoples. By the way, there's some goodish scrambling to be had in the Cabinets as well. Rock Peak has at least one good established route and several other possibilities. I personally like the looks of the north face and the east ridge. Haven't seen anything written about either one. The north face would probably be pretty fun this time of year. Anyhoo, that's my ramble Good luck and share if you you find anything closer.

Not yet. It's on my plan 'B' list and so far all of my plan 'A' trips have gone according to plan.

I've poked around looking for that crag. Next time you drive by it, can you flag a waypoint and send it to me - kidding of course.....but really

Nice job getting out in the drizzle. That traverse is on my plan 'B' list. Looks like a blast. My wife and I were over exploring on Navaho Peak and basins nearby all weekend. The rain gear went on and off a dozen times on Saturday Made for some excellent lighting for pics though. As far as that textured rock and the serpentinite, we ran into a huge sampling: How's this for texture!?

Nice job. Is that bypass on the same ledge where the north side pitch starts - just way right of there? I remember looking over that way and thinking the ledge just ended.

I second Jones Bay. It's close to the climbing and the sites are ok. I'd get there early on a holiday weekend though and maybe have a backup plan. Steamboat Rock will likely be all reserved up at this point but they do get last-minute cancellations so if you don't mind the playground atmosphere, it would make an ok backup...something like plan 'D' or 'Z'

OH NOOOO! I'm comitted to hiking up to Lake Augusta this weekend or I'd join you. Oh well, gotta do things with the honey sometimes too Maybe next time.

FYI: Seems like many more nails on the right side (TH side) than on the left.