orion_sonya

You bring the ciggies and the booze, I'll snag some bensis, and maybe Chirp will give the funny horse a call

Hi- This is an invitation to the person(s) who removed fixed lines and draws from a Skagit County Crag to contact me personally. Myself and the other folks working out there would appreciate getting our gear back and would like to talk to you. I understand leaving gear in situ while a crag is being developed can be a source of friction and I am interested in talking the issue through face to face. If you see this thread, please send me a PM. If anyone knows who this person is, please point them to the thread or send me a PM and I will give you my email or phone number. Thanks, Orion

Ah, yes I get it now, subtle in that you-must-strangle-your-inner-monkey sort of way I consider tedious and anti-monkey. Yes, subtle in that you cannot both flail and succeed, anti-monkey, which is why I so very rarely send at Index. Luckily for me there are a plethora of climbs there that have steep gymnastic characteristics that are more forgiving to the flailing monkey - they are often bolted so you will likely not be interested. It sounds to me like you just haven't climbed much granite if you only can associate splitters and slab to granite. Here are some Index Roofs and steeps off the top of my head...hmmm, now that I look at this list, i haven't sent many of these either...damn...bad monkey! La Bomba Roof Tempichuous Attractive Nuisance Narrow Arrow Overhang Raggedy Anne and Andy and nearby routes Sagittarius Full Amandala Avenging the Goddess Kring Beat Box 12 Gage IQ City of Rocks is Jug City with plenty of steeps.

Random example?? Ya dude....random....I just picked something randomly from the on-line list to have a look at a sample route description and it was "Cookie Monster". Cool. It just is surprising that you didn't already know about the climb Cookie Monster, since it is kinda a famously controversial retro-bolted sport climb. I guess it is random and coincidental.

Random example??

I fix whatever I see that needs fixing, be it my own route or otherwise. No check required, but I appreciate the offer Orion

All the chains I have placed, I assume will be lowered from. When cragging, I always lower unless the anchor is set up with rap rings or hangers. If I place anchor biners, I assume they will be top-roped through and will wear even faster. The only place I have seen where anchors are continually needing replacement is at Smith and I think there it has to do with the abrasive nature of the rock/dirt, the high volume of people on routes like 5 gallon buckets, and the fact that a lot of people are TR'ing through chains. I can't think of too many WA routes that are in chronic need of chain replacement. Thin Fingers and Japanese Gardens have pretty deep grooves in the steel biners, but that is from top roping.

Sweet! Nice job everyone. My $300 match is in.

Whoot, F-ya! keep em coming!!!

I'm liking your idea Rad. I'll match the next $300 as well.

300 - thanks yo.

np - i confuse easily...

isn't that a pic of BOC?

or the green arch?

Newhalem has plenty of bolts - it is definitely a sport crag. This is particularly true on the legacy routes that primarily take up real estate on the first 50 ft or so of the crag. The newer pitches and route extensions are generally bolted a little more sparingly, but still sport climbing. The recent development by Patrick, James, Benjit, Ryan, and others has really bumped the route quality up a level at the crag IMO. Plus they along with Jonah and the access fund have done a good job of coordinating with the Park Service to make sure we continue to have access and develop the area responsibly. If you don't like sport climbing, you won't like it there. If you like climbing steep granitic clip ups go get some. Cinnamon Groove is one of the best 5.12s around...

It does seem unlikely that they would close access since they just expanded the parking. It would suck if parking was shut down though ... people would be pissed and not just climbers.

Darryl- By chance did you take those pictures mountain biking? Assuming they're the same, I have always wondered about those little spires - did you hike over to them? Orion

yes - and Nason Ridge too.

Please, there are enough special ed threads about Beacon Rock. Everyone already know that is where all of the hardmen hang out ... Nice job Jens and Drew on the send! Nice TR too.

until the whole damn thing crashes down on the unlucky fucker who happens to be there. the best crag in wa is a secret, and only 1.5 hours from seattle. Kimmo, what's with the ornaments hanging on your project? Is that the new red tagging method?

Thanks for re-orienting them. Hangers are prone to rotating when the bolt is placed lateral of the bolts above and below. When the rope gets tight in a fall or when a climber lowers, the draw clipped to the bolt will tend to rotate the hanger. It happens more often when the draw points to the right when tight, as that tends to loosen the nut. I have replaced a hanger on techno at exit 32 twice that tends to spin horizontal. It is frequently fallen on and tends to bend ... The use of longer draws and slings helps reduce hanger mis-orientation. edited cuz i said "good on ya" too and well it was kinda weird having it in two posts.

I'm impressed that you checked to make sure your rope didn't reach the ground at least six times for the same rap - that is true diligence!

you really like to make a person work. some kinda strange compensatory projection straight outta Lazy B? Someones gotta work - the lazy B can do strange things to a guy ... changes a man.

fotos